454 Gasser. Meth injection?
03-07-2017, 09:02 PM
#22
Fooled around with it today a little bit. Stopped at a Jeep dealer, and picked up 2 cans of mopar combustion chamber cleaner. Read a bunch of hype about it on the web. Soaked the engine with it, let it sit a few hours, then took the truck for a ride. Smoked like mad for a bit, then cleared up. After a quick 10 mile ride on the highway, i hooked the scanner up. Did a few full throttle runs from 60mph and up. Still was getting 4-6 degrees of knock retard.
Stopped and filled the tank with fresh 93 octane. It took exactly 16 gallons, and it has a 34 gallon tank. So pretty much a 50/50 mix of 87 and 93. On the way home, did some more full throttle runs from 60mph and up. Maximum knock retard was 1-2 degrees.
It also appeared, to pull the timing for a split second, and bring it back in, where as on straight 87, it would retard , and pretty much stay retarded until I let off the pedal.
Stopped and filled the tank with fresh 93 octane. It took exactly 16 gallons, and it has a 34 gallon tank. So pretty much a 50/50 mix of 87 and 93. On the way home, did some more full throttle runs from 60mph and up. Maximum knock retard was 1-2 degrees.
It also appeared, to pull the timing for a split second, and bring it back in, where as on straight 87, it would retard , and pretty much stay retarded until I let off the pedal.
03-08-2017, 07:16 AM
#23
Tried something else this morning otw to work
I immediately got on the freeway, and waited till coolant temp hit 150 degrees, and floored it from 60 again. I got 0 knock retard. Once coolant got to 180, floored it again. I then got 2-3 deg of retard.
Could it be a cooler running engine, is less prone to spark knock? Ive always ran my boat engines cold water temp wise for that reason.
It goes into closed loop around 115*, so that wasnt a problem.
I immediately got on the freeway, and waited till coolant temp hit 150 degrees, and floored it from 60 again. I got 0 knock retard. Once coolant got to 180, floored it again. I then got 2-3 deg of retard.
Could it be a cooler running engine, is less prone to spark knock? Ive always ran my boat engines cold water temp wise for that reason.
It goes into closed loop around 115*, so that wasnt a problem.
03-08-2017, 07:34 AM
#24
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
iTrader: (6)
Tried something else this morning otw to work
I immediately got on the freeway, and waited till coolant temp hit 150 degrees, and floored it from 60 again. I got 0 knock retard. Once coolant got to 180, floored it again. I then got 2-3 deg of retard.
Could it be a cooler running engine, is less prone to spark knock? Ive always ran my boat engines cold water temp wise for that reason.
It goes into closed loop around 115*, so that wasnt a problem.
I immediately got on the freeway, and waited till coolant temp hit 150 degrees, and floored it from 60 again. I got 0 knock retard. Once coolant got to 180, floored it again. I then got 2-3 deg of retard.
Could it be a cooler running engine, is less prone to spark knock? Ive always ran my boat engines cold water temp wise for that reason.
It goes into closed loop around 115*, so that wasnt a problem.
03-08-2017, 07:37 AM
#25
I could believe that to be true, I have no data but it makes sense to me, the first time my Harley shut down the rear cylinder because it was getting hot in stop and go traffic, I freaked out never had it happen before, as soon as I got moving and the cylinder temp went back down the ECM relit the plug.
03-08-2017, 08:23 AM
#26
Charter Member#568
Charter Member
One of the tricks from back in the day was to run a cooler t-stat. The problem was that the cooler coolant temps were outside the range of what the computer would accept so companies like hypertech addressed that with their computers. Make sure whatever computer/ tune you're using has had the coolant temp parameters changed.
__________________
Straight bottoms and flat decks
Straight bottoms and flat decks
03-09-2017, 07:48 AM
#27
Registered
I would replace the injectors, you can find new ones pretty cheap now days, I'm betting they are clogged, have a 11 avalanche, right at 100k started setting a lean ck engine light bank 2, cleared it truck ran fine, would come back every 2-3 weeks, talked to my GM guy said had a injector issue. I ran across a guy on ebay selling complete new sets of delco injectors for $50+, put a set in throttle response perked right up and no more light
03-09-2017, 09:14 AM
#29
Registered
If it wasn't so close to boating season I'd say pull the heads. At your mileage a valve job wouldn't hurt it and then you'd know the extent of your carbon buildup. Short of that I would try what snapmorgan suggested. Can't hurt anything other than your wallet!
03-09-2017, 03:06 PM
#30
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
I have only put 20k miles on the truck, in the last 5 years. Its not a daily driver or anything like that. I use it to tow the boat, or occasional a trip to home depot and what not.
I bought it with 87k miles, it now has 108k miles. Since I have owned it, it has got
Plugs, wires, new distributor, fuel pump, fuel psi regulator. New LS injectors (one of reasons for tuning). New intake gaskets, Stewart HD water pump, HD fan clutch, 180* stat. New rotors, new drums, new hub bearings and rear bearings, new calipers, new rubber brake lines. New hoses, new belts. New tires. New pitman arm. New shocks. New starter, new battery. New headlamp and park lamp assemblies. New A/C lines. Added Autometer trans temperature gauge and HD derale transmission cooler with its own fan. Removed stock hitch, for a class V curt hitch. Replaced stock muffler, with a Magnaflow. Only thing it NEEDED, was a fuel pump. That crapped out on me. Other than that, the rest was preventative. Removed the overload leaf spring stops from the frame. That really made it ride better on the bumpy illinois roads.
Have a set of stainless Edelbrock Shorty TES headers, that have been sitting here a long time. Just never got around to putting them on. Its pulled the boat from Chicago to loto several times, about 1000 mile round trip, Traverse city Mi, and locally. Pulls good, stops good, and stable. Best thing I did was modify the proportioning valve in the brakes. Stock, the rear braking sucked.
Cheap to own, cheap to insure, easy to repair, and best part, no monthly payment for something I rarely drive. I'd love a new Chevy/GMC 1 ton , they are awesome. But the 70 grand price tag, eh. I'd rather burn that money in boat gas.
I bought it with 87k miles, it now has 108k miles. Since I have owned it, it has got
Plugs, wires, new distributor, fuel pump, fuel psi regulator. New LS injectors (one of reasons for tuning). New intake gaskets, Stewart HD water pump, HD fan clutch, 180* stat. New rotors, new drums, new hub bearings and rear bearings, new calipers, new rubber brake lines. New hoses, new belts. New tires. New pitman arm. New shocks. New starter, new battery. New headlamp and park lamp assemblies. New A/C lines. Added Autometer trans temperature gauge and HD derale transmission cooler with its own fan. Removed stock hitch, for a class V curt hitch. Replaced stock muffler, with a Magnaflow. Only thing it NEEDED, was a fuel pump. That crapped out on me. Other than that, the rest was preventative. Removed the overload leaf spring stops from the frame. That really made it ride better on the bumpy illinois roads.
Have a set of stainless Edelbrock Shorty TES headers, that have been sitting here a long time. Just never got around to putting them on. Its pulled the boat from Chicago to loto several times, about 1000 mile round trip, Traverse city Mi, and locally. Pulls good, stops good, and stable. Best thing I did was modify the proportioning valve in the brakes. Stock, the rear braking sucked.
Cheap to own, cheap to insure, easy to repair, and best part, no monthly payment for something I rarely drive. I'd love a new Chevy/GMC 1 ton , they are awesome. But the 70 grand price tag, eh. I'd rather burn that money in boat gas.
AMEN to no payments
