F-250 trailer plug
#11
Have you used a test light to confirm that you have power coming to the 12V hot pin out of the truck? Some trucks need to have a fuse inserted to make this happen, that's not there from the factory. This would be in the manual.
Also, some integrated/factory brake controllers, especially of that era were only designed to really with STRAIGHT ELECTRIC brakes. IF your truck is one of those, you need this:
HBA-CAM.html
That basically "fools" the truck into thinking you have Straight Electric (magnet) brakes; and allows your factory controller to work with an EOH trailer brake system.
#12
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I'm assuming you have a battery on the trailer, correct? YES If so, does the brake controller actuate when the break-away switch is pulled and the truck is NOT connected? YES
Have you used a test light to confirm that you have power coming to the 12V hot pin out of the truck? YES Some trucks need to have a fuse inserted to make this happen, that's not there from the factory. This would be in the manual.
Also, some integrated/factory brake controllers, especially of that era were only designed to really with STRAIGHT ELECTRIC brakes. IF your truck is one of those, you need this:
Attachment 571022
That basically "fools" the truck into thinking you have Straight Electric (magnet) brakes; and allows your factory controller to work with an EOH trailer brake system.
Have you used a test light to confirm that you have power coming to the 12V hot pin out of the truck? YES Some trucks need to have a fuse inserted to make this happen, that's not there from the factory. This would be in the manual.
Also, some integrated/factory brake controllers, especially of that era were only designed to really with STRAIGHT ELECTRIC brakes. IF your truck is one of those, you need this:
Attachment 571022
That basically "fools" the truck into thinking you have Straight Electric (magnet) brakes; and allows your factory controller to work with an EOH trailer brake system.
no voltage present on the blue wire @ the truck plug until I engage the controller then theres 2.8 vdc on the blue wire no matter where the controller is set while truck not moving, Im gonna see if my neighbor is busy this eve, there may be a to see who gets trailer duty.....
Last edited by F-2 Speedy; 09-25-2017 at 04:09 PM.
#13
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I have no warning light . Do away with the factory setup mine never worked right down rite scary pulling 15k .
Last edited by 575cat; 09-26-2017 at 09:29 AM.
#15
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Soon as I get the brakes bleed, Ill hook it up crank it up to 8-9 and see if it works, my B inlaw ( Matco man ) in TX talked to a bud of his, 40 yr Ford mechanic and he said some work and some dont, it is true the early 05's like mine need to be moving and decelerating for the ECM to put out max voltage on the blue lead, if it doesnt work he said to install a dexter in cab controller.
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#17
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#19
I don't know that trucks that DO have an integrated controller have the option to use a "pigtail" like the other trucks that don't.
See this page (after you enter your truck details), and see the two pigtails you can buy, which plug in under the dash, and allow you to wire up an aftermarket controller.
Reese - Brake Controllers
This will them use the truck's factory wiring to carry the brake controller signals to the trailer connector on the back of the truck.
Some other info:
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-fbc_sd05.aspx
See this page (after you enter your truck details), and see the two pigtails you can buy, which plug in under the dash, and allow you to wire up an aftermarket controller.
Reese - Brake Controllers
This will them use the truck's factory wiring to carry the brake controller signals to the trailer connector on the back of the truck.
Some other info:
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-fbc_sd05.aspx