Tartilla

Got a sweet deal on a very clean and solid 1976 Formula 233-C.

Trailer price was over the top, so I'm going to Fabricate a custom trailer.

The Road Runner 8000lb trailer specs in at about 1600lbs bare.

I weighed the boat and trailer when I moved it. Boat has no fuel. (New tank) Complete 280 TRS (350 Chev engine and Merctrans 2)

Tongue weight was 700 lbs.
Tandem trailer axles were 5765 lbs.

Total: 6465 lbs.
Less 1600 lb trailer: 4865 lbs hull and power.

Tongue weight was about 11% added fuel 100USG would place the weigh on axle and add tongue weight. Looks like the axle position is good. The tongue is a bit long though, so as I shorten it a few feet, it will add weight.

I expect about a 1500 lb tandem trailer. I'll use 6" C- Channel for the main frames and lateral connections.

Probably go with 2 4000 lb axles. I don't want to be short on capacity when loaded with fuel and supplies.

Likely a 2 bunk per side system, with a good bow support.

I looking to get any good ideas on what to add or make to ensure an easy launch and tow.

Salt water launching, likely very frequent. So C-Channel well painted will let me observe the structure better than a tube metal.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

ezstriper

Buy a aluminum trailer...

Tartilla

Yeah, good point. Aluminum trailers are pretty cost prohibitive up here.

Why I'm going the custom route. Nothing new is reasonably priced. As in, a couple axles with 2 cross tube frame rails welded to the mains. Then everything lag bolted together.

There was a company in the US that had aluminum trailer kits. What happened to them?

ToMorrow44

I did the same thing with my new trailer. 6" c-channel steel. I don't use it in saltwater but if I did, I know I could wash it down real good and it wont rot from the inside out. Use torsion axles, they won't rot in saltwater like leaf springs. Only slightly more expensive, but worth it, they ride nicer too. Solder and adhesive heat shrink all your wiring, if you butt connect it together, the salt will rot it out. Looks like the balance of your current trailer is good, so just use those measurements to build the new one. Good luck!

Tartilla

Appreciate the info on the torsion option. I'll have a look into some examples.

Water tight electrical joints are a must. One option is to have a plug in light bar at the rear. That does not get submerged, and can be removed.


What steel paint options do I have that will protect the trailer?

Epoxy paint?