Eagle Trailer Surge Brake
 

So my Eagle Trailer Brake unit was bone dry when I bought this boat. So the surge unit just shifts when braking and accelerating. Has anyone taken one of these apart and “rebuilt” it?

Where could I possibly get a replacement?

And.... I do not see a reverse lockout on this unit. So was it common to have a bypass relay on them?

Thanks.

What brand actuator and master cylinder do you have? Disc or drum? Generally easier to put new master cylinder on it than rebuild it.
Most have one, it should be attached to the rear of the master cylinder.

I can answer part of that. Sorry. I do have drum brakes. As for the brand I have no clue. The previous owner towed this trailer about 10 miles round trip to the ramp. The boat and trailer were purchased together new in 1991. The boat has 530 hours on it. I assume he never cared about the surge brakes due to distance traveled.

As for the second part of your reply I am a bit confused. I figured I would have to replace the master cylinder (or rebuild) but what about the reservoir? Are those generally included? During that last part of your comment were you referring to the bypass feature?

I should be able to post a picture a picture of what I have after this post. LOL.

Do you plan to tow very far? If so, convert it to electric brakes. etrailer.com has everything you need, including factory brand brakes kits already assembles. I put all new factory (Dexter) brakes on my cargo trailer for less than 300.00/ fully assembled, bolt on. you will have to run a new wiring harness for the brakes. I almost got killed towing a 23ft Chris Craft on a surge brake trailer one time. With electric and a good controller, you can control the trailer braking from the truck.

The master cylinder is the reservoir. If your trailer has a reverse solenoid, it will be attached to the rear of the master cylinder. The main brake line from the actuator will be attached to it. If it doesn't have one, brake line will attach directly into rear of m/c. Look on the actuator, top or side, it should have the name of the manufacturer on it somewhere.

Tandem or single axle trailer? If he never serviced it, I would completely re-do brake system. No telling what condition everything is in after 30 yrs. In the long run for time and labor, it's cheaper to buy complete new backing plates. Four bolts, old off and new on.
If you are freshwater only, you could go with electric, as stated. New electric complete backing plates with brakes, stabilize your coupler (bolts or weld) or bolt/weld a new solid coupler on, add a new controller if your vehicle doesn't have a factory controller, rewire with a 5 flat plug, if you are currently using a 4 flat connector and clean the old surge stuff out. Easy enough and good stopping.

You could also, rebuild what you have for about the same cost. You could either buy a new actuator to save some labor or completely rebuild the actuator with new m/c, dampers, etc., all new free-backing brakeplates, reverse solenoid, clear lines and replace as needed, bleed and go.

Basically, which ever way you feel most comfortable. Either way, not a real expensive upgrade.

Awesome. Thanks for all the help folks. I appreciate it.

You ever find out what brand actuator you had? Pics?

had a 99 heritage tandem with surge brakes under an old boat and there was nothing to bypass the brakes... when i backed up my uphill driveway it was a pain, had to put a big c-clamp on the tongue to stop the brakes from locking up, never was an issue backing down the ramp. totally agree with above comment just start fresh with electric or better yet electric over hydraulic.

It’s taken me a bit to get these pics so I apologize. But I could not find a label or tag referring to this surge system. Here is what I have.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...53cd79108.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...4820d5f8a.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...680034d27.jpeg

I am considering the electric brake application on this trailer if it’s not too costly. I am more than capable of doing the work. Just a couple questions.

1. Is there anything special I need to be concerned with using the electric brakes system on a boat trailer that will be in/out of the water at least 4 days a week? (It will only be used in fresh water).

2. Do I need to unplug the harness when backing into the water to “save” on the new electric braking system?

3. What brand or location is the best to buy a replacement set up?

A good EOH pump will cost you around 600-800 bucks, I converted mine well worth the $$$$ and easy to bleed the lines, my truck has the integrated controller so install was easy.

Looks like an UFP A-60 actuator. Good actuator for surge and parts are plentiful most everywhere. You can buy either a new one if you don't want to mess with it, or buy all the parts you need and overhaul your current one. Parts would be the cheaper way to go if you decide to stay with surge brakes, but either way would work.

Question 1. No.
Question 2. Some people do and some don't. It's just a personal choice. Trailers with electric brakes are everywhere and drive thru rain and water all the time with them connected and don't have issues. When connected you have brakes at all times, even backing down the launch ramp.
Question 3. Lots of places to get UFP parts. You can get new surge or electric backing plates ready to go almost anywhere and they are pretty inexpensive. Etrailer, EasternMarine, Pacific Trailers just to name a few. If there is not a trailer place anywhere around you to get surge actuator parts, Pacific trailer and Bend trailers are both good choices for parts. I have ordered from both of them and they keep lots of parts on hand. I usually order from the place that has the cheapest price and best shipping rates that particular day. You will have to either buy a new coupler, either weld on or bolt on. You may be able to weld up the old actuator after you gut it, as well.