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tbev 12-19-2020 08:13 PM


Originally Posted by dunnitagain (Post 4768905)
I've never used the Timbren Suspension , looks interesting , but still a glorified torsion . If you
use them I'd like to hear your opinion on them compared to a torsion.

I'm almost convinced enough to go with the Timbren setup. I've gotten to hear from a few guys with them on decent sized boat trailers and they are all really happy with them. Lot of guys using them on little off-road teardrop styled trailers but they are using the single axel axle-less setup so I don't consider it to be very much the same thing. I'll leave some feedback here when I get it done, thanks for the advice bud.


tbev 12-19-2020 08:17 PM


Originally Posted by 1Zoom (Post 4768931)
I just completed entirely rebuilding my trailer with new axles, brakes, springs, etc. the only thing I used that was original was the side rails. I agree with Dunnitagain springs are the way to go. Like stated take the time to plan it out with the correct weight springs and it will ride great. I suggest Kodiak stainless disks and Hydrastar EOH master cylinder.

You Never have any issues warping those stainless rotors do you? I want to get away from everything that will rust, I'm using stainless everything I can but stainless rotors I just can't get my head around. I've been working with stainless for a long time and it warps like a mother when it heats up so stainless discs sounds like a nightmare to me. I was going to go with stainless calipers, etc, but not rotors.

1Zoom 12-20-2020 07:46 AM


Originally Posted by tbev (Post 4769805)
You Never have any issues warping those stainless rotors do you? I want to get away from everything that will rust, I'm using stainless everything I can but stainless rotors I just can't get my head around. I've been working with stainless for a long time and it warps like a mother when it heats up so stainless discs sounds like a nightmare to me. I was going to go with stainless calipers, etc, but not rotors.

I have not had any issues, I put on about 2500 miles towing it and they have been great. I am not sure of the grade of stainless they are using but my guess is Austenitic which has a very high resistance to heat and corrosion. I was also concern, when you think about how hot they get and then get dunked in cold water, but so far they have been great. The single biggest upgrade I would suggest for anyone is the electric over hydraulic master, I was running about 65mph on the highway when a car cut off the semi a couple of trucks in front of me. I hit the hooks hard and was praying I could stop. The trailer stopped perfectly and stayed directly behind the truck. Pulling my Cafe fully fueled and over 12,000 lbs. I was sold.

underpsi68 12-20-2020 08:31 AM

My stainless rotors are 3 or 4 years old now. Still almost like new and are not warped at all.

tbev 12-20-2020 09:05 PM

Do you prefer radials or bias ply tire on a boat trailer?

1Zoom 12-21-2020 01:11 PM


Originally Posted by tbev (Post 4769887)
Do you prefer radials or bias ply tire on a boat trailer?

I have had them both, I prefer the radials. Bias ply are okay but the radials are smoother and don't develop flat spots from sitting. Whatever you get make sure to get a tire that is weight rated for more than you pull, you will also want to watch your tire pressure and speed rating. There is nothing worse than saving a couple of bucks on a cheaper tire, then finding out it cost you 5 times as much when you loose a tire, delay your trip, or worse damage your trailer or boat.

tbev 12-21-2020 01:16 PM

Thanks bud, that's exactly what I needed to know!

offshoredrillin 12-22-2020 08:06 AM

to me one of the biggest items people cheap out on is tires.. my myco had lt tires on it, it was painful to watch the sidewalls in a turn wondering if it was going to pop off the rim. once i switched to 14 plys the world was a better place. towing, turning, no more jolts on expansion joints, no wobbling.. very much worth the extra money

Baja Rooster 12-22-2020 02:05 PM

I just switched from bias to radials this last year and found the radials were much more squishy, but filled up the air pressure to the upper end of the recommended range and things smoothed out a great deal. The extra air pressure also helps keep the tire from twisting in a knot on tight turns. I don’t miss the bias plies needing a few miles to round out the flat spots.

smokediver 01-06-2021 06:59 PM

Over the summer , I towed from south Florida to lake powell , then to ATL and then back to Fl. I have all stainless Kodiak brakes , Goodyear endurance tires, airtight hubs , and torsion axles. Not a big boat. A Donzi 22 classic. My trailer is 4 years old. I didn’t have to add any grease to the hubs or air to the tires. 5400 miles round trip and not one problem. I am sure my trailer has been dunked in saltwater well over 100 times. I did add an EOH system before I went out west. Aluminum and Stainless Steel will serve you well. And good tires with the right air pressure.


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