GLENAMY 242SS

iTrader: (1)

Did I see that boat headed west on Hwy 62 from Hu-B's area and stop at the Twice the Ice parking lot across from Moore's Boat Repair yesterday?

TomZ

iTrader: (2)

That wouldn’t be awful but anymore and it creates a lot of bounce. I may also need to move the stand a little more forward to fix that.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

The problem is actually with the trailer flexing when loading IRT to having a gap when pulling off the ramp. Between the angle of the ramp, the position of the hitch where/when the truck may not be on the ramp, the water depth, etc. etc.

I too hate those kind of bow stops. A roller would be better. But the separate V-bow catch and winch stand is best. Why? Because you mark your winch strap so you know exactly where it's supposed to be over the top of the spool. And no matter what angle the trailer is at, you know the boat is going to end up in the right position.

There have been posts on this in the past.

With the roller bow stop, as pictured above. There is always the chance the boat will go between the two pieces of the roller, and the V of the boat will contact the metal. I've seen it happen.

Last time I checked, Loadmaster of Ohio would sell you and adjustable two piece V-bunk bow stop.
https://www.loadmasterboattrailer.co...ons/bow-stops/

zz28zz

I prefer the V-stop over the roller as well. On my lake, I'm forced to use different ramps due to constantly changing water levels. Some steep ramps and some shallow. What seems to work on all of them is when launching, I'll unwind the winch exactly 5 turns. When I return, I'll drive the boat onto the trailer, connect winch strap, crank the handle 5 turns and the boat winds up in the same place every time. Only issue I've had with this method is when someone thinks they need to "help" by unwinding the winch as I'm pulling up on the trailer. Marking the strap/cable is a good idea too. If the bow isn't in contact with the V-stop, I'll get a lot of bouncing on certain roads.

speicher lane

Icdedppl's front V block (hydraulic cylinder) on his Cig trailer is pretty damn slick.

Sydwayz is correct, mark the front bow and always winch the boat up and into the same mark...boat will always be where it should and not shy of the roller/v- block.

F14A water jet

I also have an adjustable nylon tensioner and rarely travel more than about 3-4 miles on smooth roads.

TomZ

iTrader: (2)

I want to go some distances next summer so getting this straight over the offseason is important. I'm okay with the short distances.

MyIsland

This bow stop, seperate from the winch as a few have said seems to work for my 311. I will try to text you a pic of my trailer. I too had the double roller like yours and it would scuff and scratch. As I upgraded the trailer this past winter, the new bow stop worked like a charm. Attached is a link to one that I had purchased.

Chris

https://magictiltparts.com/index.php...roducts_id=537

jtbooten

iTrader: (1)

I sold this one about 10 years ago. It has switched hands a few times.

Wildman_grafix

Working on a friends trailer and he just checked, they do not sell those to people anymore.

Checked E-trailer and they did not have any. Anybody have another source? Its for his 35 ZR and it has those stupid double roller one where you HAVE to float the boat on so the bow eye will go into the middle. Not fun when there is tides or current, I just helped him for the first time this week and it was a PITA.