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here's another pic of the bypass hose. this is a 7.4 MPI
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Thanks qaberdeen!! I will have to inquire about doing that on the SBC setup!?!?!?
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Revd Up how much does the Bblades props go for.. looking at a 28 bravo.. and whats the difference between that and the labbed bravo 28 that teague sells..
thanks |
Originally Posted by DKerns
(Post 2812443)
Revelocity, I am not doubting you, but what "bypass" is required?? I ordered all new hoses for my boat when I put it together and there were no bypass hoses. I also put a motor in a 98 boat recently that had the same therm housing O.E. and didn't have any bypass hoses and didn't have a hole in the thermostat.
Looking at the newer 454's like qaberdeen had in his boat, they don't show any bypass hoses either?? Looking for positive info so I know what I need/should do!! I also don't want to mislead qaberdeen!! What you're doing is bypassing the closed thermostat which Mercury accomplishes in two manners that I know of. Either a one piece thermostat housing and a by pass hose between the water pump and intake (like the 7.4 MPI diagram) or a 2 piece thermostat housing which does need the extra hose as the t-stat is not mounted flush on the intake but on top of the main t-stat housing therby letting water circulate. This was the arrangement on a 350 Mag/4 barrel 270 HP (Design 1 cooling). I have seen some 2 barrel 5.0L/5.7L arrangements without a bypass but I guess Merc feels this is fine for 200 - 230 HP. |
Thanks guys for the dialogue, so it sounds like it's just best to drill, because my motor was built i guess to replicate the 7.4l so i could transfer a few parts and would not have to make to many changes. so if i'm correct Revelocity your saying to drill.
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The engine builder just got back to me and stated this.. (" You have constant flowing water to your exhaust system at all times specially when using a thermostat. If your thermostat blocks the flow of water and does not bypass for the exhaust cooling you need to drill the manifold and bring water above the thermostat. If the housing has water to the exhaust with no restriction you need do nothing to the manifold. The bottom line is the cooling system needs water at all times, you cant have the thermostat block water off when the engine is cold")
so in other words it sounds like i don't have to drill using the Stainless Steel T Housing in the picture because it does not block the water..am i on the right track..just wanting to make sure.. |
qaberdeen, I was under the impression that the plastic inserts were to let the water bypass while the therm. is closed!! The therm. installs up inside the housing with the plastic insert between it and the intake...... Again, don't hold me to that!!
That being said, I have had mine on my motor(s) for 2 seasons now without any overheat issues and I don't have it bypassed!! (325hp on the first motor, 600 hp on the one that's in it now!!) |
I agree that you'll be fine since the responsible thing is simply to warm the engine up first before burring the throttle!.
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Originally Posted by Revelocity
(Post 2815771)
I agree that you'll be fine since the responsible thing is simply to warm the engine up first before burring the throttle!.
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Originally Posted by Velocity Vector
(Post 2815846)
Woman and engine, you should warm them up before burring the stick.:party-smiley-004:
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Originally Posted by Revelocity
(Post 2815771)
I agree that you'll be fine since the responsible thing is simply to warm the engine up first before burring the throttle!.
I never hammer down on anything that's not warmed up!! |
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Some of the goodies r starting to arrive.. so hopefully i will have some pics soon with the build process.
q |
Cool, Get'er Done! If you need any help on how to spend just let me know. Visa, Master charge, american express,
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Originally Posted by qaberdeen
(Post 2813041)
Revd Up how much does the Bblades props go for.. looking at a 28 bravo.. and whats the difference between that and the labbed bravo 28 that teague sells..
thanks |
By all means, speak with Brett at BBlades. He will know what will work best for you. He has done great by me. However, do it soon, as he is probably getting busy.
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I do all my own labbing, if you want send it to me and I'll fix you up. The photo is some of my work.:evilb:
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Thanks Guys,
VV, thats a nice looking prop, looks abit dull though..lol Does it matter where i install my ignition box, i'm going to order the bracket for it and mount it either on the transom or in the back of the engine off the heads. r there any pros or cons to this installation area. thanks q |
Pragmatically, mount it where you can get to it easy for replacement purposes. Many of my friends now carry a spare MSD on board!
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Hey fellas,
which gasket am i using with the thermostat assembly the left or right. also the sender assembly temp is not fitting what should i do. the base of it is to wide. Revelocity, thanks, i did do a little research on the MSD ign and i found that some people had problems, but so did every one else with the other brands. but that's some good advise about carrying a spare.. thanks q |
qaberdeen, I used the flat gasket on the right.
if the therm housing is up side down, insert o-ring/flat gasket, thermostat, plastic spacer, therm housing gasket, in that order. If you are putting a sending unit in the housing, you will need to have the housing gasket with the continuity rivets for it to work properly! On the MSD/any ign., it also helps to wire them with good weather pack connectors. Wire them so that you can unplug one box and plug in the new one!! Makes it a lot easier to swap them out!! |
Thanks Dkerns,
i've used to studs to block off those areas on the housing and using both sides of the therm hosing placement to mount the temp senders/sensors, but of course the darn thing doen't fit. so does anyone have any ideas of what i can do.. thanks q |
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Hey fellas,
It's been awhile since i've posted any updates, but the mechanic can't get to the motor until the end of the month, so i've been sitting back waiting patiently, but i do have one question, i was able to borrow a prop fom a mate of mine to try(a 26p hydromotive), the only thing is that, it has the permanent hub in side the prop. does a spacer go at the end, because when i put the prop on it shows about 1/2 inch of the shaft before u get to the threads. or how can i retify this. with my 24 hydro it had the external hub which took up the space behind the prop. thanks |
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Engine is finally In..Should have some more pics soon and updates.. wish me luck.:party-smiley-004:
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Looks great dude, I bet you are getting anxious now.
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Thanks VV,
yeah anxious is right, it's been a while now, but things r coming along now..hopefully in the next couple of weeks, i would be ready to splash, and get some #'s on the board. |
Looks great qaberdeen!!! Hope she runs well for ya!!:ernaehrung004:
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Originally Posted by qaberdeen
(Post 2850801)
Hey fellas,
It's been awhile since i've posted any updates, but the mechanic can't get to the motor until the end of the month, so i've been sitting back waiting patiently, but i do have one question, i was able to borrow a prop fom a mate of mine to try(a 26p hydromotive), the only thing is that, it has the permanent hub in side the prop. does a spacer go at the end, because when i put the prop on it shows about 1/2 inch of the shaft before u get to the threads. or how can i retify this. with my 24 hydro it had the external hub which took up the space behind the prop. thanks |
Thanks Dkerns, I was able to get another spacer for the front of the prop. Now i'm just waiting for the mechanic to come and lace this bad boy up..lol
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Well,
everthing is wired an raring to go, but the ignition box is not sparking..:-( i've tried the trouble shooting that comes in the instructions, just wondering what else can i do.. thanks |
Originally Posted by qaberdeen
(Post 2872193)
Well,
everthing is wired an raring to go, but the ignition box is not sparking..:-( i've tried the trouble shooting that comes in the instructions, just wondering what else can i do.. thanks |
not sure,
it's the MSD 6M-2Lmarine box..with the rev limiter built in..i don't think it had the timing control box |
Haven't looked at this thread in a while..... Looks great! :drink:
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First make sure the small white wire from the MSD Box is not touching a ground also check voltage at the small and large red wires from the MSD. The Mag Pickup in the distributor may be going bad, it happens.
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also,you Probably already checked, but I've had problems with grounds in many cars with msd ignitions.....Make sure it and the engine are properly grounded....
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here's some updated pics..
I going to check the groud again, thanks again |
Looks great, you did a very good job, Check the ground if that is OK then check to see if the wiggling pin hasn't fallen out of the wobbling hole.
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Originally Posted by Velocity Vector
(Post 2872611)
wiggling pin ..... wobbling hole.
HAHAHAHA:grinser010: |
thanks fellas,
Hopefully i can have this sorted soon, q |
I just checked some of the wires, it looks like the mechanic had it grounded to the battery, but he did do the checklist a couple of times that is in the manual, but still was no spark..
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Might give MSD a call they have good tech support
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