Test ran the new Raylar goodies
04-12-2019, 09:35 AM
#93
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Installed an AEM Wideband controller. Very nice piece for $150. Pulled my hour meter and relocated. Used that hole for the wideband gauge. Going to monitor AF off both banks and then leave hooked up to the leanest of the two.
04-12-2019, 11:38 AM
#94
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If only I had a running engine
04-12-2019, 12:59 PM
#95
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Gold Member
If you already know, disregard. What I have seen in my application and on other boat setups is that even though your engine isnt actually reverting, it still sucks in moist vapor. Typically, this ends up creating a calcium coating or calcium deposit on the A/F sensor. If you brush off the sensor with a brass wire brush it comes off but I dont think it is something that will last more than 3-4 starts and runs and will need to be cleaned to be 100% accurate. Idling kills mine. So for the most accurate data, I would clean, screw in. start and immediately drop in gear and go. Once you are over 2000 rpm they are fine. Idling would build up calcium real fast, even after 15-20 seconds. I think you have the 525 Raylar cam which is a tad smaller than mine but I am dry to within 4 inches of the transom so we are probably about equal as far as moisture is concerned. But the bottom line is it isnt a car. I dont know how accurate I would expect the data to be after you run it a while. If it isnt 100% accurate or repeatable that .1 more A/F ratio could be a hole in your piston.
04-13-2019, 08:57 AM
#97
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If you already know, disregard. What I have seen in my application and on other boat setups is that even though your engine isnt actually reverting, it still sucks in moist vapor. Typically, this ends up creating a calcium coating or calcium deposit on the A/F sensor. If you brush off the sensor with a brass wire brush it comes off but I dont think it is something that will last more than 3-4 starts and runs and will need to be cleaned to be 100% accurate. Idling kills mine. So for the most accurate data, I would clean, screw in. start and immediately drop in gear and go. Once you are over 2000 rpm they are fine. Idling would build up calcium real fast, even after 15-20 seconds. I think you have the 525 Raylar cam which is a tad smaller than mine but I am dry to within 4 inches of the transom so we are probably about equal as far as moisture is concerned. But the bottom line is it isnt a car. I dont know how accurate I would expect the data to be after you run it a while. If it isnt 100% accurate or repeatable that .1 more A/F ratio could be a hole in your piston.
Last edited by Ryan00TJ; 04-13-2019 at 10:32 AM.
05-28-2019, 10:07 PM
#98
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I posted a couple of pics of a piston we took out of a 496 we are doing with 337 hours,a lot of people say the pistons on the 496s are junk,well they may not be the best thats for sure but I think they are better than people give them credit to be,this engine hydro locked and destroyed the connecting rod as you guys can see,but the piston did not break,also had the crank magnaflux and its fine,just thought I would share this info with you guys,now if you add a whipple or supercharge it then I would think anything could go at any time,but that would go for any engine
08-01-2019, 08:32 AM
#100
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Keith, Appreciate your thoughts on this. Yep 203 cam. My risers are dry to 1" off transom. Hoping to not have any problems. Will definately be checking the 02 sensor. I will be adjusting air/fuel by adjusting fuel pressure. I would like to stay mid 12s on anything above idle and low 12s at wot. I might have to datalog all info and have Dustin adjust my stage 2 tune. Per Larry I have base FP set at 46psi to start.
Everything running great though. 47psi fuel pressure gets me 13.4-1 at idle. 12.8-13.0-1 from 2200-4200rpms. 12.8-12.2-1 from 4400-5200rpms. Plugs confirm very clean running. Very nice monitoring airfuel all the time. Yesterday, ran my bblades labbed bravo 28p. Hot 90s, 60gal fuel, gear, me, calm water 74.8 @ 5100rpms. 
