Need odd ball S.S. stud
 

I bought an ext steering take off kit from a mid-2000 35' Fountain. The kit is missing one SS stud that connects the wing plate to the driveshaft housing rear cover (the lowest of the 3 attach points). I'm pretty sure this is a factory Fountain set-up as opposed to Latham.

One end of the stud screws into the driveshaft housing (3/8 x 16 tpi) and the other end uses the same nut that attaches the 6 studs that you remove to remove the outdrive (7/16 X 20 TPI). The outer diameter steps up abt 1/2" past where the 3/8" threads end. Over all length is ~3 7/8".

See attached:


[ATTACH=CONFIG]555025[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]555026[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]555027[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]555028[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]555029[/ATTACH]

Retap all of them to 7/16 - 20

Its better for the top cap hold down anyway. You can buy 7/16 - 20 stainless bolts from ARP good for 70 ft lbs (which is twice as much than the standard bravo top cap torque)


Or


Use 3/8 ARP stainless bolts with a bushing.

Thx for the suggestion.
I have a good 3/8 bolt that came with the kit. I used it to mock up everything. I assume that's what the prev owner was running with.
A bushing would be a good idea if I have to go back with the 3/8 bolt.
Re-tapping to 7/16 will be my last resort plan. I hate to drill and tap such expensive and critical things unless I have to.
Hoping someone has some old Fountain parts laying around.

Still looking.

If you can find a couple of 7/16"-20 x 4" hex head bolts in Stainless I could cut the 3/8" thread on the other end.. I would like to have a few of them incase the first ones don't go well. You could mail them to me and I could cut the threads and mail them back.. Maybe send a beer certificate along with the bolts.. :)

Dick.

This looks to be a difficult piece to find. It might be worthwhile to try to locate a good local machine shop that could duplicate it for you.

Good luck.

Thx for the offer Dick. I really appreciate that.

I found a machine shop that has an ol'timer working there that does stuff on the side. He says he can make one for me from some 316 stainless round stock. I'm assuming that 316 would be the best choice, correct me if I'm wrong.

I was talking to one of the guys at BAM abt ordering a 7/16 bolt and taking it to a machine shop. He mentioned that since bolts are rolled, it makes them difficult to machine. I wasn't aware of that.

Most of the bolts of that size, 3/8"-7/16" are made of 18-8. I just use a bolt and cut off the head then take a skim cut to clean up the shaft of the bolt and make it round. Then I run a die as deep as I need the threads with the lathe on very slow speed. I have found the right die and lubricate can cut some very nice threads. Just made eight 4" top cap studs and spacers for a Latham steering setup. They were made of 18-8 Stainless. Not sure which would be better the 316- or 18-8 as far as strength. The 316 will stay cleaner compared to the 18-8.. The ARP are a stronger unit, but once you cut your own threads on an ARP stud, you have changed it.. They won't make anything special just what they have unless you want a large quantity. I have not had any problems with studs made from the 18-8. I have little trouble machining them with the right tools..

Hope that helps..
Glad you found someone to do the one you need. He should be able to provide info on which would be stronger..

Dick

I dug up some info on classes of stainless.
Looks like 316 is slightly stronger than 304 and is definitely the preferred material for marine applications.