Bravo Top Cap
 

Guys,

Anybody have a Bravo One top cap lying around, after an upgrade or repair or whatever? I want to measure one and work out a truly water cooled alternative to the conventional drive shower, where the water just splashes over the powder coating.

Thanks. Brad.

I'm sure I have one in a pile somewhere...if you still need one let me know

BBYSTWY,

That would be awesome. Clear your inbox.

Thanks. Brad.

Wags engineering used to make a water cooled top cap. I have no idea if they are still available or not, but it would be a good design to start with.

There was also a company I want to say in the mid-late 90’s who made a water cooled back cap if you weren’t running steering that used a different back cap. I might know where one is, I’ll get pictures if it’s still there and see if they want to sell it. I don’t think it’s been on a boat since 2000 or 2001.

You can also check out the Teague top cap, it has passages that would cool in it and then dumps it down the sides. I don’t know how much a top cap itself will do though with the pocket of air above the gear lube. You’re more of an engineer than I am and I look forward to seeing the results you find on this vs a normal drive shower.

TMMII,

BBYSTWY hooked me up with a Bravo top cap, and I’m looking it over. I have to think I can improve on what the drive shower does, if for nothing else but to cool the top cap itself way better. Whatever the drive shower is good for, it has to be better by cooling the cap better. The powder coating alone is killing thermal conductivity.

First thing I have to do is get the roller bearing out and the bearing race sleeve off the bearing boss and get reliable dimensions for those two critical features. The rest should be easy to sort out.

Thanks. Brad.

Cooling only the top cap is not very beneficial. With the dead pocket of air you will only cool some splashing oil. A top cap only drive shower somewhat cools the drive, but I believe inferior to a real drive show such as a Simrek style that doesn't even bother with the top cap. It at the least cools the case where the oil is.

Rookie,

There are two oil passages that (I think) feed oil to the top bearing, and from there it trickles down to the rest of the drive (?) I think the theory is the oil is cooled as it runs through those passages. My only contention is that the powder coating is killing the heat transfer to the water being washed over it.

Thanks. Brad.

A Bravo doesn't have anything to really circulate the oil like other drives. A TRS has an oil slinger on the coupler to circulate oil between the upper and lower, thus really doesn't need drive showers. I can appreciate the thinking, but a lot of work for something that has already been done and found there to be no market for it.

Guys,

So I had a bit of time to play around with this….




It's got a water jacket around the bearing carrier boss, and the water sprays down the outside of the drive case.

Thoughts….?

Thanks. Brad.

Teagues are the same thing.

TMMII,

Are they internally water cooled? The pics I’ve seen are thicker than OEM, and made from billet, making them considerably stronger, but most still have a drive shower mounted above them.

Thanks. Brad.

yes, they use a pickup to feed the water to the cap and then it dumps around it like a shower.

TMMII,

Got a link? I can’t find it. All I’m finding is the one where, in the description, it says ,”For your drive shower, longer spacers and bolts may be required.”

Thanks. Brad.

Wags manufactured one with internal water jacket.

Avanti,

I’ve heard that. But have yet to see one.

Thanks. Brad.

If you decide to make these and sell them, please reach out to me. I specialize in custom built bravos that withstand some horsepower and I’d be happy to promote your product. I’ve also got 3 or 4 different style water cool top caps here along with a water cooled back cap if you would like some other ideas.
(508) 631-4784

Adrenaline,

I am still working out some of the details. It occurred to me that, as designed, I wouldn't be able to use it with my Mayfair hydraulic steering bracket, as the bracket would interfere with the hose connection. I have yet to get back to reworking the water inlet, and there's more to it that it appears on the surface. But I will get around to it sooner than later.

Thanks. Brad.

The wags engineering one are fully water cooled, and then it dumps onto tye side of the case. I have a set and I can send ya a pic when I think if it. Definitely is a nice piece of work….and that’s coming from a machinist as well. I’m not sure if he still makes’em or not but if i remember right he went by wags382 on this site

Halfgassed,

I keep hearing about the mythical beast, but have yet to lay eyes on one of them. Please do post a pic if/when you get a chance.

Thanks. Brad.

Good find ! ^^^^
There are a Few photos of the cap on his facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/100057343694420/

I wonder if Wags is still with us. Years back, He used to have a bunch of parts on Ebay. Haven’t seen’m listed fir a long time.

Say what ya want but after being on my boat seasonally slipped for 6 years and exposed to 10tons of duck **** and harsh cleaners whoever did his anodizing I’ll give a pat on the back to as well, these caps are 15? Years old

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9d74ca8af.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...bce49eb6f.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...cecf301e1.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b13c32535.jpeg

HalfGassed,

Anodizing should hold up pretty well, being an electrochemical penetrant process. It’s paint and powder coating that will suffer over time.

Thanks. Brad.

I see now how he did the cooling. They are just water passages, probably two holes drilled at angles from the hose port, past the bearing boss, and connected to with cross holes, which intersect the downward exit holes, then plugged. Clean and simple.

Thanks. Brad.

you are correct….not sure why anodizing was on my mind for some other reason🤣