Riding the Trailer Brakes
03-05-2007, 10:23 AM
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Riding the Trailer Brakes
I have a tandem Nordic trailer. It seems as if the brakes work pretty well, however after a little bit of a drive the brakes are quite hot. Producing steam when backed into the lake. This happens even if there are not many hills.
It seems as if I am riding on the brakes, slightly engaged. Is there any way to change the sensitivity of the surge brake system or otherwise aleviate this problem?
Also, the trailer has a 5 pin adapter that goes to the truck. Is one of these for electronic brake control? What do I need to be able to utilize this?
Thanks for the help!! This is a new boat to me and a bit different setup than my last boat.
It seems as if I am riding on the brakes, slightly engaged. Is there any way to change the sensitivity of the surge brake system or otherwise aleviate this problem?
Also, the trailer has a 5 pin adapter that goes to the truck. Is one of these for electronic brake control? What do I need to be able to utilize this?
Thanks for the help!! This is a new boat to me and a bit different setup than my last boat.
03-05-2007, 10:52 AM
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1) Are you sure it's not heat that's building up just from the tires / wheels from the weight of the boat on the trailer tires?
2) I believe surge brakes are either on or off and by their nature they shouldn't be engaged when pulling. Chances are 1 or 2 brakes would stick, but not all of them.
3) You need electric brakes if you want to use an electronic brake controller - you cannot use a controller with surge brakes. This would require a complete overhaul of your braking system on the trailer and may be less hassle just to buy a new trailer with electric brakes.
2) I believe surge brakes are either on or off and by their nature they shouldn't be engaged when pulling. Chances are 1 or 2 brakes would stick, but not all of them.
3) You need electric brakes if you want to use an electronic brake controller - you cannot use a controller with surge brakes. This would require a complete overhaul of your braking system on the trailer and may be less hassle just to buy a new trailer with electric brakes.
03-05-2007, 11:15 AM
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I think it's possible the surge mechanism or the piston in the master cylinder could stick such that the brakes don't fully release when pulling forward. There should be a grease fitting on the surge coupler that would be an easy first step.
You could also try jacking up a wheel and spin it to see if it turns freely. If not, it's an indicator that something might be wrong. It could be at the coupler like I said before, or it could be the brakes need adjustment at each wheel.
That fifth wire is probably for an electric reverse lockout solenoid. With surge brakes, when you back up the brakes are applied if that wire isn't getting a signal (voltage). It needs to be wired into your reverse lights.
If you're not really mechanically inclined or if you haven't had previous experience with brake systems, find a local RV/trailer repair shop and have it looked at by a professional.
You could also try jacking up a wheel and spin it to see if it turns freely. If not, it's an indicator that something might be wrong. It could be at the coupler like I said before, or it could be the brakes need adjustment at each wheel.
That fifth wire is probably for an electric reverse lockout solenoid. With surge brakes, when you back up the brakes are applied if that wire isn't getting a signal (voltage). It needs to be wired into your reverse lights.
If you're not really mechanically inclined or if you haven't had previous experience with brake systems, find a local RV/trailer repair shop and have it looked at by a professional.
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03-05-2007, 04:19 PM
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Trailer Brakes Heating
One of the reasons for this post was that I did not understand the reason my new trailer had a 5-pin connector and the old one had a 4-pin connector.
The brakes are hydraulic disc brakes and I believe the extra wire is for the reverse solenoid as handfulz28 pointed out.
I have the 5 pin plugged into an adapter for the round trailer hookup on the truck. The backup lockout does not work as the brakes are definitly applied when trying to back into the garage. I have had to use a small metal clip to prevent the brakes from engaging. All other lights, signals, etc work correctly.
When I am towing all of the bearing buddies are filled with grease and the hubs are not getting hot, however on the two wheels that have brakes the rim usually gets very hot.
Is it possible that this is a trailer balance problem? If the trailer is not even (ie. tilted forward towards the truck) could this cause the brakes to be slightly engaged on level towing? What is the proper angle - should the trailer be completely level when attached to the truck on level ground? I guess I could test with a level and buy a different receiver to achieve the correct toungue height.
Thanks for the help - I did not receive an owners manual for the trailer and will be requesting one from Nordic.
The brakes are hydraulic disc brakes and I believe the extra wire is for the reverse solenoid as handfulz28 pointed out.
I have the 5 pin plugged into an adapter for the round trailer hookup on the truck. The backup lockout does not work as the brakes are definitly applied when trying to back into the garage. I have had to use a small metal clip to prevent the brakes from engaging. All other lights, signals, etc work correctly.
When I am towing all of the bearing buddies are filled with grease and the hubs are not getting hot, however on the two wheels that have brakes the rim usually gets very hot.
Is it possible that this is a trailer balance problem? If the trailer is not even (ie. tilted forward towards the truck) could this cause the brakes to be slightly engaged on level towing? What is the proper angle - should the trailer be completely level when attached to the truck on level ground? I guess I could test with a level and buy a different receiver to achieve the correct toungue height.
Thanks for the help - I did not receive an owners manual for the trailer and will be requesting one from Nordic.
03-05-2007, 04:47 PM
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Trailer should be level but I doubt a slight down angle would affect the brakes. If you have to have an angle, a slight down angle is preferred for trailer handling.
If you can feel a definitive difference between the tires/wheels that have brakes and the ones that don't, it's most likely a brake problem.
Now you have to figure out if it's at the coupler: either the slide mechanism isn't sliding, or the master cylinder piston is not releasing.
Or it could be a frozen caliper. Like I said before, if you've done brake work, you can check the calipers to see if there's a bad caliper, problem with the pads, etc. You've got to pull the wheel, visually inspect, and then compress the piston. A good caliper you might even be able to move with your hands.
Otherwise, take it to a pro to have them look at it. If you've got a frozen caliper(s), the overheating brakes eventually stop working. You don't want that.
Good luck.
If you can feel a definitive difference between the tires/wheels that have brakes and the ones that don't, it's most likely a brake problem.
Now you have to figure out if it's at the coupler: either the slide mechanism isn't sliding, or the master cylinder piston is not releasing.
Or it could be a frozen caliper. Like I said before, if you've done brake work, you can check the calipers to see if there's a bad caliper, problem with the pads, etc. You've got to pull the wheel, visually inspect, and then compress the piston. A good caliper you might even be able to move with your hands.
Otherwise, take it to a pro to have them look at it. If you've got a frozen caliper(s), the overheating brakes eventually stop working. You don't want that.
Good luck.
03-05-2007, 09:31 PM
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I have the 5-pin connector on my Nordic Trailer. My reverse lockout didn't work either. Always inserted the tab for backing into my garage. Finally pulled it apart and found the factor harness in the truck was not connected correctly. Hooked up the correct wires and now I can back up without having to get out of the truck to insert the tab.
Try this link:
http://www.ufpnet.com/PDF/A60-70Maint.PDF
This should get you to the maintenace stuf on the actuator that Nordic uses on their trailers
Good Luck!!
Pat
Try this link:
http://www.ufpnet.com/PDF/A60-70Maint.PDF
This should get you to the maintenace stuf on the actuator that Nordic uses on their trailers
Good Luck!!
Pat
03-06-2007, 05:56 AM
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My brakes will not fully release if applied slightly or after going down a steep hill. That is the nature of surge brakes. Make sure the mechanism is clean and lubed where needed. A slight stab at the throttle will jerk the vehicle forward and fully release the brakes in those situations. Perhaps your brake shoes are slightly dragging due to preload being set wrong?
