Shifter cable adj ?
10-13-2009, 05:24 PM
#12
Charter Member #601
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gaberdeen,
If it was, you would see the oil turn black with little time on it.. In a few hours it would smell burnt and have yellow metal in it.
There is a measurement for that slot, just checked the manual. From the pivot bolt to the adjustment stud it should be 3" or 76mm. That should give you the proper depth.
I ran around in open water and pulled the cable off and shifted it into neutral, lined up the barrel and then shifted it into gear. If it went in ok... I would change the slot adjustment.. till it was a problem, then put it back some. Not very scientific, but it did work, for me. I ended up having a modified shift fork cam and it was causing me problems.. Replaced it and it worked fine. My original problem was not going into gear after I had to make an emergency landing at the dock one time..
After looking at the manual and measuring my depth adj, I found it at 3 1/8", so mine is too deep and I have no problems with it.
If you want to eliminate the drive, pull it off and spin the input shaft by hand. It should have some drag on it, but nothing excessive. It will be in Rev when you pull it off. The cable sticks out of the face of the drive for Rev, when using a RH prop..
Keep us posted.
Dmax, check the neutral center adj and depth adjustment on yours also. If you have to pull the drive and see if it rotates in gear easy and out of gear also. Remember you need to turn the input shaft to get a Bravo to shift..
If there is black oil something it causing it. I would have it looked into. Before you went too far with it. It might be bearing problem. Just hard to tell without looking.
Dick
If it was, you would see the oil turn black with little time on it.. In a few hours it would smell burnt and have yellow metal in it.
There is a measurement for that slot, just checked the manual. From the pivot bolt to the adjustment stud it should be 3" or 76mm. That should give you the proper depth.
I ran around in open water and pulled the cable off and shifted it into neutral, lined up the barrel and then shifted it into gear. If it went in ok... I would change the slot adjustment.. till it was a problem, then put it back some. Not very scientific, but it did work, for me. I ended up having a modified shift fork cam and it was causing me problems.. Replaced it and it worked fine. My original problem was not going into gear after I had to make an emergency landing at the dock one time..
After looking at the manual and measuring my depth adj, I found it at 3 1/8", so mine is too deep and I have no problems with it.
If you want to eliminate the drive, pull it off and spin the input shaft by hand. It should have some drag on it, but nothing excessive. It will be in Rev when you pull it off. The cable sticks out of the face of the drive for Rev, when using a RH prop..
Keep us posted.
Dmax, check the neutral center adj and depth adjustment on yours also. If you have to pull the drive and see if it rotates in gear easy and out of gear also. Remember you need to turn the input shaft to get a Bravo to shift..
If there is black oil something it causing it. I would have it looked into. Before you went too far with it. It might be bearing problem. Just hard to tell without looking.
Dick
Last edited by Mr Gadgets; 10-13-2009 at 05:32 PM.
10-13-2009, 05:48 PM
#13
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thanks, cause the way i set my gear shift, was when the engine was in stalled and drive, i had no reverse, so i manually just backed it out to i got forward and reverse and went with that..so it's no percise measurement there..
Q
Q
10-14-2009, 11:13 AM
#14
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Q, As mentioned if you have the thottle blade open to far to keep the engine idling, you will get no signal to the idle circuit. The idle mixture screws should have an effect on the idle when adjusted. Opening the rear blades a little lets you close the front blades to get that signal back.
The power valve circuit shouldnt have an impact on the idle quality, but I like to keep my power valves from opening at idle by comparing engine vacuum to the PV#. Example: If the engine idles at 8in of vaccum make sure your PV is a 7.5 or lower.
Also, I dont know what kind of distributor your running, but depending on the advance springs in it, you can very easily be seeing some mech. advance at 1000rpm, but when put in gear you loose that advance, which will weaken your idle. MSD makes a timing kit that allows you to dial in a MSD ignition very easily with directions and graphs.
The power valve circuit shouldnt have an impact on the idle quality, but I like to keep my power valves from opening at idle by comparing engine vacuum to the PV#. Example: If the engine idles at 8in of vaccum make sure your PV is a 7.5 or lower.
Also, I dont know what kind of distributor your running, but depending on the advance springs in it, you can very easily be seeing some mech. advance at 1000rpm, but when put in gear you loose that advance, which will weaken your idle. MSD makes a timing kit that allows you to dial in a MSD ignition very easily with directions and graphs.
10-14-2009, 11:24 AM
#15
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Q, I do see by your pictures that your running a MSD dist. Very easy to check by pulling the cap and checking spring color and mech timing stop as well. An example: I'm running a black timing stop(13 degrees), initial set at 13degrees, a light silver and a heavy silver spring brings all my timing in by 3000rpm, starting at 1200rpm(26 degrees total). I dont know if this is beyond your means, but with the carb and timing properly set you should have a strong idle in gear, I know I do.. Good luck.
LE
LE
10-14-2009, 11:31 AM
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Mr Gadgets,
Have you ever noticed a left rotation Bravo running warmer then a right rotation drive? Reason being, this year I started watching drive temps, and my left drive runs almost 30 degrees warmer then my right. Both are cooled by an intercooler dump and similar drive showers. The highest reading I have seen was in the 280 degree range.
If so can this be Dmax's issue. I dont know if he's running a shower or not.
LE
Have you ever noticed a left rotation Bravo running warmer then a right rotation drive? Reason being, this year I started watching drive temps, and my left drive runs almost 30 degrees warmer then my right. Both are cooled by an intercooler dump and similar drive showers. The highest reading I have seen was in the 280 degree range.
If so can this be Dmax's issue. I dont know if he's running a shower or not.
LE
10-14-2009, 07:25 PM
#17
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I have not spent time with twins and temp gauges. I do have one customer that one drive is hotter than the other, and we are still looking at the cause. I don't remember if it is the RH or LH.
I do know one friend could see the 280* mark and his drive shower would take 50* out of it.. One broke off and he compared the two temps.
By rights they should run the same, but I have not experimented with it.. to see if and why..
Sorry, not much input on that..
Dick
I do know one friend could see the 280* mark and his drive shower would take 50* out of it.. One broke off and he compared the two temps.
By rights they should run the same, but I have not experimented with it.. to see if and why..
Sorry, not much input on that..
Dick
