DMAX

Could a shift cable out of adjustment , cause somthing in my Bravo 1 to slip and cause enuff heat to burn the fluid. The cable was adjusted with the tool and was good, Pressure and vacum test held good, Its a C.P.O. by Merc. Why is my drive oil turning almost black after only 30 hrs. of med. duty use. While the other drive oil is still green. And yes my monitor is filling up , also switched the caps and still fills.

Mr Gadgets

If the shift linkage moves too far it will cause the cam to rub on the brass ring and cause heat. Also if the gear stack is too short it can do the same thing.
The slot adjusts the amount of movement the cam gets. The barrel adjustment centers it in neutral. ..

Hope that helps.
Dick

DMAX

Thanks for the reply. So does that mean I could get a false adjustment even with the tool ?One other thing, sometimes I have to jiggle the shifter before the engine will start which leads me to believe maybe something else needs adj. The cable from the motor to the drive is two years old, from motor to shifter no idea. Broke a gimbal ring a few years back and had to cut the cable to get the old one off. Thanks John

qaberdeen

If the cable is off the right setting, would this also cause the engine to cut out or die off under low rpm's idling in gear.. my problem is that i just installed a carb engine from and efi, but when i put it gear it's not dock friendly at all. it will cut out or die off if i idle for long under 1000 rpms which is frustrating, i set the shift cable myself so could this be the problem or should i look somewhere else..sorry for not adding to the discussion..:-)
also do u need a tool to set the shift adjustment..

Mr Gadgets

gaberdeen,
You dont need a tool to adjust it, just a good understanding of the operation of it. The tool takes the guess work out of it. If you pull the cable with the barrel out of it's holder (cotter pin) and shift the drive into Neutral. The barrel should slide right into it's holder. If it doesnt it is not centered. Adjust the barrel so it does. The slot adjusts the depth of the shift fork inside the drive. Too far and it rubs, not far enough and it may slip before it engages.
The Alpha drive used to have a cut out switch on it. But I dont know of any Bravo's that did. The neutral safety switch prevents if from starting, but doesn't kill the motor as you shift into gear.
If your motor will idle at 700-800rpm with no load and you put it in gear and cant keep it idling at that rpm, then either you have a lot of drag from the driveline or the AF ratio is not correct on the motor. In open water, can you get the motor to idle down, in gear? Will it stay at a certain rpm? If not, is your timing too retarded, does it change at an idle. I have run 32* at idle with a locked dist and it would idle fine. But the locked dist is for a large cam motor..
I dont believe your problem is the drive. I would look toward the motor for the ill mannered idle..
Hope this helps.
Dick

qaberdeen

Gadgets, thanks for the reply..
And the Dmax sorry, and i don't mean to hijack your thread. but it sounds like we have simalar problems..

the motor idles find, with no load, but once i put it in gear, i have to come up on the throttle to keep it going, and idling under 1000rpms it will stumble and cut out which makes it difficult around docks..

i'm not sure it i was too comfortable witht the efi with just sticking it in gear and go, but now i have this performance carb motor it taking awhile to figure it out,

Griff

It sounds like a carb tuning issue. How much initial timing are you running???

qaberdeen

34*, i've tried jets, different setting with the idle mixture screw, but still can't get where i can putt around under 1000rpms, especially around docks and other boats..but it runs great, just want it to be dock friendly..also what is the AF ratio

thanks

Mr Gadgets

AF is air to fuel ratio. How much fuel you are giving the motor with a certain amout of air input.
I believe you have a carb issue also. How big is the cam? At what rpm will it idle in neutral?
Do your idle screws affect the idle when you turn them in and out? If not, you may need to open your secondaries and close the primaries to get them back over the air idle bleed slots. I think that is what they call them..
I would try moving the timing back to say 24* and just idle around to see it that helps. Of course you may need to adjust your idle screws again..
While it is idling.. look down the throat of the carb and see if there is fuel dumping out of the boosters?? Careful to not singe your eyes if it back fires..

Keep at it, you will find it.

Dick

qaberdeen

trying to get the specs of the cam now, should i just try another carb..
it idles at about 800-900 rpms in neutral
idle screws does affect the idle when turning in and out
and when looking down the carb at idle, there is no fuel leaking in..
the engine builder said to send the carb back for tweaks, so i might just do that..

but really, i will rather sacrifice speed, to have this thing be dock friendly

thanks for the input,