Excalibur 24 rebuild
#31
the bpo is preferred, gives a longer work time i believe and is also much easier to mix if you do not have tinted mek.
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#32
got all my products together.. built a shelf roller for my glass.. picked up a new scale for measuring, and started cutting glass.
how does this layup look its three layers of 1708 will do the same on the other side then overlap in the middle. too thick or good? the bottom has some thin spots from delamination and it wasnt very thick to begin with.
how does this layup look its three layers of 1708 will do the same on the other side then overlap in the middle. too thick or good? the bottom has some thin spots from delamination and it wasnt very thick to begin with.
#33
looks good, three layers along with the tabbing for the stringers will be good. Member Phragle (Rob) just did the exact same thing with his 22 Avanti at my shop. With the motor out you could stand on the surface and flex it quite a bit, cant imagine what it did when running.
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#34
Registered
iTrader: (3)
Im doing my bilge at glass dave's academmy right now. The bottom was flexing pretty good. We basically have the same bilge so here are some things I have learned.. While you want to put it all together at the same time it helps to add a little time. I added mini stringers, 2 on each side and did one side today. laid down 2 layers of 18 oz then corebonded the stringers in. Today I layed 3 layers of 1708 on one side all at once. Today i learned that when i do the other side Im going to put in one layerthen let that firm up for a couple hours then do the next layer, wait a bit and the the 3rd layer.. its tight in that little bilge and the slightest miss step or hand plant and you have just messed up 3 wet layers and its a royal biotch to get it all straightened out and back down especially with staggard overlaps. I also laid "bridge" sideways across the bilge so I could be up off the bottom I was attempting to glass. Also, do not and I repeat DO NOT wear jeans with a hole in the knee and unknowingly stick that exposed knee on the wet glass whie you work on another area for a few minutes. Removing your semi cured knee from the hull of the boat is not fun.
THe red is the main stringers the blue is the 3" tall mini stringers Im adding.[ATTACH=CONFIG]528180[/ATTACH]
THe red is the main stringers the blue is the 3" tall mini stringers Im adding.[ATTACH=CONFIG]528180[/ATTACH]
#36
Registered
iTrader: (3)
Also, by the time I was trying to wrap the 3rd layer over multiple stringers and balance it I had been in the bilge breathing fumes for an hour...you have to take into account that 20 minutes in that has about the same effect on me as slamming a half bottle of capt morgan
#37
lol thats sort of why i didnt go all the way down to the bottom, i figured i would end up falling in it plus my hull was already reinforced a bit and i staggered 2 inches, 4 inches, and 8 inches into the reinforced area.
Dave if you know why that area in my bilge is blue i would love to hear why... i figure it is tinted mek??? That stuff seems solid but it was laid in by a total hack and it kind of worries me a little. just going with it though.....
So this brings up a question i was just researching... how long do you have before you lose the chemical window for laying in with vinylester? It seems to stay tacky for a while when i practiced wetting out 1708 today.
It would be nice to lay it in and then have a little time to tab the bottom to the side of the hull and maybe even retab the forward bulkhead.
Dave if you know why that area in my bilge is blue i would love to hear why... i figure it is tinted mek??? That stuff seems solid but it was laid in by a total hack and it kind of worries me a little. just going with it though.....
So this brings up a question i was just researching... how long do you have before you lose the chemical window for laying in with vinylester? It seems to stay tacky for a while when i practiced wetting out 1708 today.
It would be nice to lay it in and then have a little time to tab the bottom to the side of the hull and maybe even retab the forward bulkhead.
#38
my x is 17 i believe but i am old school TRS. I thought about coming up but my exhaust will come out the slanted area of my hull if i raise even a 1/2 inch
i always liked that bondo smell... i guess i am just fecked up hahah
i always liked that bondo smell... i guess i am just fecked up hahah
Last edited by sparky24; 08-20-2014 at 11:11 PM.
#39
also i bought some of these preformed stiffener things that i plan on laying in a X pattern in the bottom of the bilge
maybe i can put some on the outside of the stringers like in your picture. I only asked for two but the dude grabbed 4 so i figured it was a sign and just went with it
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...Hull+Stiffener
maybe i can put some on the outside of the stringers like in your picture. I only asked for two but the dude grabbed 4 so i figured it was a sign and just went with it
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...Hull+Stiffener