Should I adress blisters or ignore them?
#21
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I have seen something almost exactly like this before on boats that have a full glass cockpit , like a centre console might , that were pretty old and maybe had water/debris sitting in them on and off for a long time . The cockpit floor would often get these areas of gelcoat failure that looked exactly the same. But was it true osmotic blistering or just a poor bond between the gelcoat and the first stage of layup ?
In this case I'd say that it's definitely gel that has opened up and failed, not paint .
#23
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I think Sea Rays form the mid 90's were prone to delamination issues. But mine is an 89, not to say mine can be the same thing. I will go get some of the material off the hull tomorrow morning.
I'm afraid of what the $$ is going to be to adress this.
I'm afraid of what the $$ is going to be to adress this.
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it looks like there is more blistered area than area that hasn't blistered. i think this repair is gonna be remove the entire top surface whether paint or gel and barrier coat or gel it complete.
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Shane & Dave, I went to the boat and got some material from the blisters. Unfortunately, the picture of the blister material doesn't show well. Do you have a way of examining the material to see if its paint or gel coat, if so, I can send it to you.
While at the boat, I started on the winter clean up and while doing so, I noticed the line / edge in an area of the stripe was slightly off, as maybe it was re-painted at some point and the tape was not totally flush. I don't feel a ridge from tape, but maybe there's no ridge b/c its been clear coated. Than again, maybe what I'm seeing is something from the factory paint job? or maybe the entire boat was re-sprayed below the rub rail?
I also posted some closer pictures of the blisters, and they are a primer color under them and also posted picture of the striping as well as two lousy pictures of the blister material.
While at the boat, I started on the winter clean up and while doing so, I noticed the line / edge in an area of the stripe was slightly off, as maybe it was re-painted at some point and the tape was not totally flush. I don't feel a ridge from tape, but maybe there's no ridge b/c its been clear coated. Than again, maybe what I'm seeing is something from the factory paint job? or maybe the entire boat was re-sprayed below the rub rail?
I also posted some closer pictures of the blisters, and they are a primer color under them and also posted picture of the striping as well as two lousy pictures of the blister material.
#26
those super close ups do look like gel, kinda looks like you can see some fibers from the mat layer that went in first for print control. That being said the only way to repair is to strip all the gel off and re gel the entire surface. It is a very time consuming labor intensive and potentially costly process.
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
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Since blistering needs to be addressed differently than bad paint, is there a way to inspected blister material under a scope or in a machine to know whether material is paint or gel? I just want to make sure I make every effort to do once, vs twice.
Any guesstmate as to what to expect from a $ perspictave and any recomendations for people or places in the Long Island area?
Any guesstmate as to what to expect from a $ perspictave and any recomendations for people or places in the Long Island area?
those super close ups do look like gel, kinda looks like you can see some fibers from the mat layer that went in first for print control. That being said the only way to repair is to strip all the gel off and re gel the entire surface. It is a very time consuming labor intensive and potentially costly process.
#28
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Thread: Should I address blisters or ignore them?
This is called "Hull Herpes" it is temporarily treatable with the right medication but it will always be an underlying issue.
This is called "Hull Herpes" it is temporarily treatable with the right medication but it will always be an underlying issue.
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I'm wondering if the bottom is hit with a D/A and some 320 unless recomend using something different and assuming they all pop, can I just roll barier coat over it? Hoping the barrier is thick enough to fill the pock marks and then bottom paint over the barrier coat. The pock marks are deep but the diamater is very small.
Could this be a viable solution for me or the OP, or am im wishfuly thinking.
Could this be a viable solution for me or the OP, or am im wishfuly thinking.