Air conditioning install on 38 need help!
#21
My cruiser equiped go-fast.
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Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
#22
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Location: West Hills, CA & Lake Havasu
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That was 20+ years ago, It was an R-12 system, that was the standard at the time for automotive A/C. The evaporater was the biggest that I could get from Vintage V8 air conditioning, I think it was about 2 tons. The Condenser was an off the shelf part from an A/C wholesale house, 3 ton tube in tube, circular about18" in diameter and about 12" high. I put a couple of annodes in with Tees at the water connections. The system worked very well, the only downside was you had to keep one engine running to run the compressor.
#23
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I just finished installing one in my 32. Actually, just have the thru hull fitting and pump left to install. I'm guessing mine will be the only 32 with air.
I went with Mermaid. A very nice piece. I bought the reverse cycle, 6500 Btu unit through WM. The R/C was only $50 more and gives you heat in the spring and fall. Hard not to get that option.They are having a clearance sale and are letting these go cheap. Installed mine under the sink cabnet. I removed the drop in ice cooler. Wanted to install it under the v-berth in the large storage compartment, but didn't want to cut big holes thru the bulkheads for the supply and return ducting. The sink cabnet turned out perfect. I'll get some pics later.
I went with Mermaid. A very nice piece. I bought the reverse cycle, 6500 Btu unit through WM. The R/C was only $50 more and gives you heat in the spring and fall. Hard not to get that option.They are having a clearance sale and are letting these go cheap. Installed mine under the sink cabnet. I removed the drop in ice cooler. Wanted to install it under the v-berth in the large storage compartment, but didn't want to cut big holes thru the bulkheads for the supply and return ducting. The sink cabnet turned out perfect. I'll get some pics later.
#24
I know this is an old thread but I have an AC that I'm getting ready to put in my 32. Do you have pics of the water pick up, in and outside of boat? Do you think putting a "T" and a valve on a raw water line would be a good idea? I really don't want to drill a hole in my boat if there is some alternatives.
I only check in here on OSO every couple of weeks anymore as I'm boatless now, so any follow up questions might take awhile to respond.
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 08-14-2017 at 09:38 PM.
#25
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You could tie into your motors supply hose. A strainer would be the bomb, serve a double purpose and make the connection easy. But you would have to remember to open and close valves at each use. Cant just install a tee. You'd be sucking air thru the AC unit when running the motors. I installed my AC pickup thru hull on the side since I designed my system to run off lake water while the boat was on the lift, so the side install made it easier to access and attach my drop down hose. Took a few beers to drill that hole! I made both of the thru hulls so I could screw in the brass barbs for the drop down hoses when AC is being used. For the discharge, I used the cooler drain location as I eliminated the cooler. There is a valve screwed directly to the inlet thru hull soI could close it off if needed in an emergency.
I only check in here on OSO every couple of weeks anymore as I'm boatless now, so any follow up questions might take awhile to respond.
I only check in here on OSO every couple of weeks anymore as I'm boatless now, so any follow up questions might take awhile to respond.
#26
You maybe ok since the water lines will be primed just from the motor and it's under water while at rest. Even the cheap AC pumps will pull water no problem once it's primed. My buddy's pulled water up 4' w/o issue. They wont self prime though. You just have to make sure the AC won't want to also pull the water from the motor until it sucks air thru the exhaust at which point AC will shut down. May need 2 valves to be trouble free. 1 for motor, 1 for AC
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Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
#27
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You maybe ok since the water lines will be primed just from the motor and it's under water while at rest. Even the cheap AC pumps will pull water no problem once it's primed. My buddy's pulled water up 4' w/o issue. They wont self prime though. You just have to make sure the AC won't want to also pull the water from the motor until it sucks air thru the exhaust at which point AC will shut down. May need 2 valves to be trouble free. 1 for motor, 1 for AC
When you used a water dump for the pick up, did you have any problems with having a water tight seal? On our 32s, there isn’t a reachable spot for water pick with a shut off valve on the transom. That’s why I want to use a dump for a pick up on the side. I defiantly will have a shut off valve.
I like these a lot because they are threaded and black will blend in with my wrap.
https://www.connollymarine.com/3_4_A.../conn-1006.htm
#28
Actually those pickups with the screws are strainers and are more robust than the simple thru hull like I used, plus they scoop up the water while running, a good idea if you are running a gen. I didn't have any plans of walking around in the engine compartment chancing tripping over the pickup and breaking it off, A standard thru hull will be just fine for your application. Yes, the sink, cooler, and bilge drains are too high for a discharge, plus you do not want to tie anything into a bilge discharge. Luckily the way the 32's sit, hitting below the waterline isn't a issue when located in teh engine compartment. In case the pic of mine wasn't clear, the AC discharge is located beneath the port bilge discharge, just aft of the water tank and approx even with top of the outter stringer. No worries of leaks. Seal it good! After I drilled the hole, I used a T-Slot cutter in my hand drill and cut out balsa coring inside the hole and filled it with epoxy thickened with filler. That made the drilled hole water proof and the hull solid so it wouldn't compress when I tightened the thru hull. I used 4200 to seal. Technically, a standard ball valve shouldn't be screwed directly on to the normal thru hull fitting. The ball valve is NPT, the thru hull is NPS. (But its done every day) They do make thru hulls that have combination threads just for this reason. The very end is NPT, then the threads become straight threads for the nut. You want to locate the pickup far enough below the water surface so that you dont suck crap off the surface of the water and plug your strainer.
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
#29
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Thanks again US1. I didn’t think about the threads for the valve so I’ll make sure to get the correct one. I’ll also drill my hole the same way. I’m OCD so I like doing things correct. I put a T in my sink drain for my AC discharge. I like your location for the inlet so that’s the route I’ll go. I’m moving slow with it due to holidays and other home projects but it will be done before spring. I have all my shore power parts. Just need a few small odds and ends for the AC. Funny thing about this project, it probably won’t be used much but it will be nice when I do!