Look at my spoon trick, it would create suction not lift - try it yourself you'll learn about hydrodynamics very fast.

First, have you ever done the spoon under the faucet trick? Where you hold the backside of spoon against the downward flow of the water and the spoon is sucked into the water further not pushed away?

yes, and thats the point...one spoon pushes, hundreds of them forcing the water out in different areas would creat aeration would it not? It goes along the same theory that smooth drives and skegs and bottoms are slower than satin finished ones, hence why speed wax was such a joke. To me it would cause more suction planeing, but at speed would be faster.

The spoon is sucked deeper into the water not pushed away, that creates a suction that in effect pulls the boat deeper into the water. So even if you put all negative dimples in the pad you have in effect created positive areas as well (higher than the depressions) whick I think should act like the spoon and create suction.

Your theory is very easy to test with a hinged board and a garden hose. It will not be exact but will either suck or push like the spoon and then you'll know for sure - hey it might work - try it!!!!!

As far as aeration goes in order to aerate you need to be able to draw air in from somewhere to make the air space?

Remember there were some early steps hulls that did not have clear access all the way to the chine? In the rise of the step they drilled holes and air was drawn from the top side some where. I believe, but not sure that some of the old Rybovich Runners (center consoles) had them and I thought a race boat named "Varn's Infinity" was like that as well. Neither worked as well as hoped but I'm sure there were many other reasons?

a good analogy is pouring a little water on a waxed tile floor then droping a waxed tile shiny side down on top of the water . then trying to pick it up. wont be easy. flip the tile to the un finished satin side and it lifts .
same method or theory when wet sanding the bottom fore to aft.

montassa,

Your right with that and I guess it's relative to the size of the dimples. The porus side lifts easier because the contact patch is so much smaller than the smooth side.

I think the dynamics change when water is passing by something at 80 mph as compared to being static?

Only one way to tell make yourself a little test bed and video tape it, I don't know what will happen - maybe it works?

Debating a tech issue as you know only goes so far, you have make it and test it to get real data whether it is virtual or physical testing.

My first question is how fast is the package going to go? If you only go around 65mph, keep the motors low. Gains from reduced drag of high motor position won't show up until your around 75-80 +. If your going slower than that with a high motor setting, you will lose percentage slip and the ability to carry the bow with trim. That could make you slower.

all good points, the aeration would come from forward momentum, and waves...they are the constant...Bo, in your tile theory you are correct, if you left it flat side down, they only way to remove it would be to wiggle/aerate the tile with movement, then pick it up.

I agree..the 38 PP is an awesome riding hull. The 43 Sunsation, with the added proper step placement, araited, and with the GRAPHITE applied on the bottom to help reduce drag is an excellent riding boat and gives also one of the best rides in rough water that I've been on. Kudo's to Sunsation. Whom ever did the engineering on that hull did an excellent job, I call it like it is. :cool-smiley-011:

great,,,,,,,,,,,, now i have to wait for the egg nog to ware off and start spillin stuff on my wifes floor,,,