Closed cooling?
#1
Gold Member
Gold Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Destin, Fl
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Closed cooling?
I'm wanting to change to a closed cooling system. And i have a few questions. This is going on 98 353 fastech w twin 502 mags.
First - How hard is the install and what all needs to be cleaned or replaced?
The engines are out right now and will be vatted and cleaned.
Second What kind advantages or disadvantages of having the system.
Third Who has the kits and offer the best prices?
Im also thinnking of converting to 525s I believe all i need is edelbrock heads, cam, intakes and acc. comp
If any dealers are on here and would like to qoute me prices My email is
[email protected]
For CLosed cooling kit, Edelbrock heads, Cam,
Exhaust Im thinking cmi e tops And anything else Im going to need.
Thanks
David
First - How hard is the install and what all needs to be cleaned or replaced?
The engines are out right now and will be vatted and cleaned.
Second What kind advantages or disadvantages of having the system.
Third Who has the kits and offer the best prices?
Im also thinnking of converting to 525s I believe all i need is edelbrock heads, cam, intakes and acc. comp
If any dealers are on here and would like to qoute me prices My email is
[email protected]
For CLosed cooling kit, Edelbrock heads, Cam,
Exhaust Im thinking cmi e tops And anything else Im going to need.
Thanks
David
#3
Registered
Are you boating in salt or fresh water? If your not boating in salt, retrofiting a closed cooling system would be a waste of money. As for up grading the motors, there are lots of better heads out there than the Edelbrock. Check out the AFR, or Brodix heads. Not sure of price difference.
Darrell.
Darrell.
#5
*
Platinum Member
No , no no ....
What he meant was has the boat already been used in salt water for any length of time before you put on the freshwater kits ? ?
I know from experience that the factory kit on the 502 MPI
works very well even with sea water temps of 80f but for some stupid reason Merc saw fit to NOT equip them with zinc pencil anodes like Volvo does ....
What he meant was has the boat already been used in salt water for any length of time before you put on the freshwater kits ? ?
I know from experience that the factory kit on the 502 MPI
works very well even with sea water temps of 80f but for some stupid reason Merc saw fit to NOT equip them with zinc pencil anodes like Volvo does ....
#7
*
Platinum Member
AHA !
Now that might change things a bit ... Generally speaking , most folks say that after " X " amount of time with prior running in salt it does'nt make any sense to go to FWC.
Partially due to salt damage (scaling) already in progress and salt having permeated the cast iron.
Whatever you do though , remember that your most vulnerable engine parts are the exhaust manifolds. Even with a 'full' FWC system the risers are still in salt all the time and between them and the exhaust manifolds you're only going to get so many years out of them , regardless of how good they look on the exterior.
Now that might change things a bit ... Generally speaking , most folks say that after " X " amount of time with prior running in salt it does'nt make any sense to go to FWC.
Partially due to salt damage (scaling) already in progress and salt having permeated the cast iron.
Whatever you do though , remember that your most vulnerable engine parts are the exhaust manifolds. Even with a 'full' FWC system the risers are still in salt all the time and between them and the exhaust manifolds you're only going to get so many years out of them , regardless of how good they look on the exterior.
#9
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Deland, Florida
Posts: 25,191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Closed cooling make the engines very hard to work on, and in my opinion, not worth the trouble, or expense. I had s small block Donzi, that I put CC on. I have more room in the bilge of my big block Donzi without CC, than I did in the SBC. But what do I know. My engines in the Formula only lasted 22 years, and still going strong, with raw water cooling, and were still going strong, when I sold the boat in December. Just a few months before that, I pulled the thermostats to check for corrosion, because right there is where it usually starts. Not a sign of corrosion. Fanatical flushing is the key.