90mphRAGE

I thought that was the t-stat down there, guessing it's 160*. Tried to warm it up on the hose, but I can't get the oil hot enough. Got water temp to about 150 ran for 40+ min. If I give it more water, cools down too much, if I give it less, water temp goes up too much but oil won't change much. Warning is set at 150ish for water. Guess it's just too efficient.
I'll try the diesel thing next, but will have to wait till after Desert Storm. Maybe down there I can get a little temp in the oil.

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iTrader: (1)

I built a bypass (water)around my oil coolers ....the bypass is open all the time with a 1.25" ball valve on the exit side of the oil cooler (water) ...I can throttle it way back or even closed in the winter .....the oil will get hot ... and it def gets clear in the top end ......m

35fountain

Just wanted to thank all of you for your input and help with my problem.
Took the boat out last weekend..Got the oil temps up to 220 and above..Came back the next day and checked for the milky stuff under the valve covers AND NONE...
I don't know if it was the intake manifold change or the installation of the PCV valves...


So Now..I have an idle problem...Pcv related probably...

90mphRAGE

I am now trying the diesel flush thing. Since the milk is hit/miss my theory is that the water is hiding in the oil cooler. With a fresh oil change, sometimes I see milk, sometimes I don't. I'll test this theory by running mellow (oil cooler closed off) and hard (oil cooler opens). If milk only shows after cooler opens, I know that's where the water hides. I'm confident now with the diesel flush I've got the crankcase clear. I don't think with my setup I ever get warm enough to boil water & may need to remove lines & flush cooler.

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iTrader: (1)

If your saying that the thermostat being closed stops all oil flow I dont think most work that way ....most Thermostats just restrict oil flow thur the cooler ...there is always some flow thru the cooler?

jeff1000man

When the oil gets hot enough, the cooler opens and allows oil to flow through the cooling tubes. when the cooler is closed, all the oil circulates through the by pass.

90mphRAGE

Well, the diesel flush helped.... but only for one weekend. Next trip out, got allot of cheese in valve covers. Still none in the pan. I also saw a scary drop in oil pressure from 40 @ idle to 20 @ cruise. I spoke to someone @ Teague today (thought maybe the cam they sent was causing reversion). They assured me the cams they send cannot cause reversion, but that maybe my oil temp is too high, causing condensation due to low water temp. That seems contradictory to my thinking, hot should boil (bye bye), cool should condense (cheese). The high oil temp may explain the oil pressure drop, but it came RIGHT back up when I dropped off plane??? This isn't NASA stuff. I have a breather on 1 side, & hose to flame arrestor on the other. I'm gonna go out to the lake with a oil temp gauge, I can't replicate any of these things in the lab (hose).

Doesn't this seem like condensation? Why does it happen now, but never did prior to the rebuild if nothing is plumbed different? Don't I have to rule out cracks, gaskets & such if I'm not making any oil in the pan?

offthefront

iTrader: (1)

I'd be investing in an oil temp Gauge ....