454 Magnum bolt on hp upgrades...which ones?
#11
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Well.......you guys are right. they have to come out!
I actually have room and can get a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket in there......the problem is that there are just about no heads left on the damn bolts!!!
These things are so freaking rusted I don't know what I am gonna do to get them off wven with the motors out!!!
I got the risers off, one had a hole rusted straight through, one was gone...I don't know how the exhaust hose stayed connected as there was no metal left. The other two were about the same.
These motors were installed in 1999 and have about 250 hours on them. I am assuming the original exhaust was used. I have never seen rust like this!!!
I actually have room and can get a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket in there......the problem is that there are just about no heads left on the damn bolts!!!
These things are so freaking rusted I don't know what I am gonna do to get them off wven with the motors out!!!
I got the risers off, one had a hole rusted straight through, one was gone...I don't know how the exhaust hose stayed connected as there was no metal left. The other two were about the same.
These motors were installed in 1999 and have about 250 hours on them. I am assuming the original exhaust was used. I have never seen rust like this!!!
#12
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Do a compression check on the motors before you take them out. I bet your going to find at least one cylinder on each needs work. The heads on the old Gen V motors is notorious for eating valve seats on # 5, 6 cylinders. You should have new seats put in at the least. If changing cams then new springs and pushrods too.
Wannabe
Wannabe
#14
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About the only thing to do with the bolts is to wipe off the head and pull the exhaust them. You can either grind off the head, burn it off with a cutting torch or plasma cutter, or knock it off with an air chisel. Once the heads are all gone, you should be able to slide the exhaust off of the bolts. It's gonna fight you, but it should come off. Obviously, the engines will have to be out to do this.
I would not be surprised if some of the head bolts are the same way. I just had a few in that we had to burn off half of the head bolts because there was nothing left. We just wiped the heads of the bolts off with a torch and then lifted the head off. After the head was off we could just unscrew what was left. Good luck. Give me a shout if I can help.
Eddie
I would not be surprised if some of the head bolts are the same way. I just had a few in that we had to burn off half of the head bolts because there was nothing left. We just wiped the heads of the bolts off with a torch and then lifted the head off. After the head was off we could just unscrew what was left. Good luck. Give me a shout if I can help.
Eddie
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fixx
i use thease on rusted or rounded off bolts heads..work like a champ!
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
#16
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thats at least brackish isn't it
#19
So, anyone have a proven power combination to make 450-500 with a 454 mag bottom end, rectangular port heads, and exhaust like EMI?
Particular cam, intake, carb, ignition?
#20
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What year is your 272? The reason why I ask is if they have the old short style lowers your going to hit a wall around 75 MPH. If you have the newer style lowers you'll be able to go faster. I'm in the process of doing the same as you right now and I really don't feel like adding external steering, new lowers ECT to take advantage of 500 hp engines. A nice set of 420 clones would get you into the low to mid 70's. All you would really need is a 420 cam, springs, holley 800 and aftermarket exhaust. I don't think your going to gain much or anything by dumping the factory intake. It's actually a pretty good intake. If your going to spin the engine over 5500 RPMs have the divider cut out.