benchboss3

Hi fella's
I'm new here but from looking at the replies there is a vast amount of knowledge here.
I am swapping my original 1975 302 mercruiser out due to old age and plan on installing a 5.0 liter mustang engine in it's place but I have a whole bunch of questions first.
1. Is it advisable to leave the fuel injection on instead of converting it back to carberation?
2. Will the front timing cover bolt onto the 5.0 which has a roller chain & gears so I can keep mt mechanical fuel pump?
3. Which vibration damper should i use as the 5.0 is balanced differently than the 302? (i have to use the 302 flywheel)
4. The 5.0 has the E.G.R. tubes coming from the back of the heads. Can I cap these off or will that give me future problems?
5. Have any of you used an aluminum intake on you boats? is there a corrosion issue?
I would really appreciate it if any of you could answer any, most or all my questions. Oh yeah i am planning to change the frost plugs to brass ones.
Looking forward to your replies
Benchboss3

HippieCustoms

After all the help I have received here, finally, I get to help someone......
Ok, the 5.0 roller engine is a good upgrade to your older 302, but there are a few issues to deal with. First the firing order will be different. It will be the same as a 351 windsor. The balance is also different. You will need to use a 5.0 balancer and flywheel. Now as far as the tubes in the heads. I suggest you tap them and plug them...Actually, some are already tapped and you can just plug them. They are there for the thermactor system in a car or truck, that you will not use at all in the boat. As far as the fuel injection goes, I am not really sure. Fuel injection is usually more tollerent to alot of offroad things, but the added weight of the system and comp may not be practical in a boat. As far as the alluminum intake goes, you can get anodes to thread into the intake to help with corrosion or get a brass/bronze lined intake. I am sure someone sells one. I hope this has helped at least a little......good luck.

Airpacker

Unless you have some really weird exhaust manifolds, the F.I. system is not going to work for you very well. Ford relys strongly on oxygen sensor feedback to run the EEC4 fuel system. The factory calibration will be too lean and will and will have too much timing advance for marine use. You could use a stand alone aftermarket engine controller to run the F.I. system but you will need to program it to run proper mixtures and timing. You will probably need to change cams as well to avoid reversion problems if you hane wet exhaust.

JimV

iTrader: (1)

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benchboss3

Thanks guy's for your help, been out of town so just getting back to it. A couple more questions if you don't mind.
Airpacker you made the light bulb go off when you reminded me about the o-2 sensor but you mentioned about changing cams due to possible reversion problems.
I'm not quite sure what you mean. Could you please explain this problem a little further.
As for the fuel injection I have decided to go back to carberation. Any hints???
Thanks again

Big Block Billy

The cam centerline has to be checked and has to be have the correct overlap or else the motor will suck water up the exh. (REVERSION) . Also ford motors from 89 up are balanced differently due to firing order changes. I would strongly suggest making sure the flywheel and dampener is correct as the old ones will probably bolt up and you will not be happy when you spin a bearing or worse. I went through this with some ford motor swaps in cars over the last 10 years. Hippie is right , you will have to plug the heads. I'd just get a good edelbrock or holley carb and the correct intake, I think yours should work fine and enjoy the boat with no major headace involving work and wiring!!! Where are you using the boat ? is it saltwater ? If so don't bother with the alum intake And MAKE SURE the exhaust manifolds and elbows are good. Also make sure the exhaust shutter's are good if you have a y-pipe. I'd recommend the stainless marine inline shutters if you have a thru hull exh. Just cut the hose insert and clamp> Apx $80 Parts. Also you should have at least 1/2" per foor of down sweep to prevent reversion...BBB