Why no boost?
#11
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Roger,
It would be a good idea to find out how many hours since last rebuild on the 250. The bearings in back need replaced every so often and if they go bad the rotors can contact the case wiping out the seals. That can be much more costly than a freshen up.
You will not see any boost until around 3500 or so depending upon cam, valves, heads so on. Did you swap out the exhaust valves for full Inconel? What is your water pressure? There is a whole laundry list of things that should be done if you want a blower motor to be reliable. Several other board members are running B&M 250's. What all have you done in preparation for this mod?
It would be a good idea to find out how many hours since last rebuild on the 250. The bearings in back need replaced every so often and if they go bad the rotors can contact the case wiping out the seals. That can be much more costly than a freshen up.
You will not see any boost until around 3500 or so depending upon cam, valves, heads so on. Did you swap out the exhaust valves for full Inconel? What is your water pressure? There is a whole laundry list of things that should be done if you want a blower motor to be reliable. Several other board members are running B&M 250's. What all have you done in preparation for this mod?
#12
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Bad dog, You may be somewhat familier with this motor,bought from US-1 Fountain last year. Wanted to take the motor back to it's happy state of being blown . Had the heads milled a bit ,not perfectly flat, ck'd block,cometic head gaskets. Springs,guides,and valves checked by local shop. Upgraded fuel pump & lines, installed mercs wp relief valve to hedge off any over wp problems.running crossovers with 143' t-stat with 3 by-pass holes drilled through & restictor in the connection between the the crossovers. Had carb. sent to Dean Nickerson ( very knowledgable ) for complete overhaul. Started everything up with no problems just no boost psi
#14
It's calling! If only I had known you wanted a blower motor, would have saved me some time changing over.
BTW, Motor is an HP, so the valves are the inconel. I would have looked REAL close at the springs though if you did not replace them. (you know the issue there) The retainers are titanium. Also fuel pump was already the high volume and only 1 yr old. I'm sure you noticed the fuel separator and fuel pump ports are larger than the regular Merc stuff. The separator was up graded from the Merc one. The fuel line itself was put back to stock size using reducers when blower was removed.
You install a V6 ignition module?
27" hydro=82mph.
Also, check the gas gauge. It seems to drop a whole lot faster with the blower.
Have full
BTW, Motor is an HP, so the valves are the inconel. I would have looked REAL close at the springs though if you did not replace them. (you know the issue there) The retainers are titanium. Also fuel pump was already the high volume and only 1 yr old. I'm sure you noticed the fuel separator and fuel pump ports are larger than the regular Merc stuff. The separator was up graded from the Merc one. The fuel line itself was put back to stock size using reducers when blower was removed.
You install a V6 ignition module?
27" hydro=82mph.
Also, check the gas gauge. It seems to drop a whole lot faster with the blower.
Have full
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Last edited by US1 Fountain; 12-02-2011 at 11:16 AM.
#15
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Roger,
Sounds like you will be fine on the laundry list. Just be sure to check into getting the blower serviced. Cheaper to do up front. From the previous posts you can see that you will not have any boost until you get it wound up. That engine should run great for you! Let us know how the merc pressure relief valve works out. I think most have had trouble with wp and crossovers. From what I have read the merc valve is supposed to work very well. I am running a 120 t-stat and an oil thermostat. Oil temp comes right up and no milk problems at all.
Jerry, I thought I read where you are having high pressure on the new boat. Give Brace a call if you want a pair of those valves. I am sure he would make you a good deal. Maybe see you around Cumberland this year. The boys have a new (to them) ski boat this year. 302 OMC and they love it. I am looking forward to doing some skiing myself.
Tim T.
Sounds like you will be fine on the laundry list. Just be sure to check into getting the blower serviced. Cheaper to do up front. From the previous posts you can see that you will not have any boost until you get it wound up. That engine should run great for you! Let us know how the merc pressure relief valve works out. I think most have had trouble with wp and crossovers. From what I have read the merc valve is supposed to work very well. I am running a 120 t-stat and an oil thermostat. Oil temp comes right up and no milk problems at all.
Jerry, I thought I read where you are having high pressure on the new boat. Give Brace a call if you want a pair of those valves. I am sure he would make you a good deal. Maybe see you around Cumberland this year. The boys have a new (to them) ski boat this year. 302 OMC and they love it. I am looking forward to doing some skiing myself.
Tim T.
#16
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Hey, you can only assess boost at WOT. If somebody wants to try to do it on the hose, then that's their prerogative.
I've done some real quickie blips to 4 grand just to watch the boost gauges react, but obviously you can't do what you need to do to check "real" boost. Or you can't do it more than once without picking up the pieces afterwards...
I've done some real quickie blips to 4 grand just to watch the boost gauges react, but obviously you can't do what you need to do to check "real" boost. Or you can't do it more than once without picking up the pieces afterwards...
#17
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Originally posted by mcollinstn
Hey, you can only assess boost at WOT. If somebody wants to try to do it on the hose, then that's their prerogative.
I've done some real quickie blips to 4 grand just to watch the boost gauges react, but obviously you can't do what you need to do to check "real" boost. Or you can't do it more than once without picking up the pieces afterwards...
Hey, you can only assess boost at WOT. If somebody wants to try to do it on the hose, then that's their prerogative.
I've done some real quickie blips to 4 grand just to watch the boost gauges react, but obviously you can't do what you need to do to check "real" boost. Or you can't do it more than once without picking up the pieces afterwards...