2006 Myco Wiring - Surge Brake 2 Way Flat Connector?
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2006 Myco Wiring - Surge Brake 2 Way Flat Connector?
I was thinking the reverse lockout solenoid was bad and after some digging on Myco's site I came across the wiring diagram and there is a separate 2 way flat connector pigtail that controls the lockout. I'm currently crossing over from the 4 way flat trailer end to the 7 blade RV receptacle on my truck through an adapter, so obviously this is the issue.
I'm thinking the easiest way to remedy the situation is to cut off the flat connectors and permanently wire in a 7 blade plug, right? But my question is this: how was that supposed to work originally with two separate flat connectors? I've been around a few trailers and and while I'm certainly no expert, I've never seen a set up like this.
I'm thinking the easiest way to remedy the situation is to cut off the flat connectors and permanently wire in a 7 blade plug, right? But my question is this: how was that supposed to work originally with two separate flat connectors? I've been around a few trailers and and while I'm certainly no expert, I've never seen a set up like this.
#2
Tie 1 of the 2 wires from that 2 wire plug to the trailers ground wire in the trailer plug. The 2nd wire, run that to the backup light terminal in the 7 wire plug.
You can also use the 5 wire (4+gnd) flat plug if your truck is prewired for it. The 5th terminal is the backup light wire.
You can also use the 5 wire (4+gnd) flat plug if your truck is prewired for it. The 5th terminal is the backup light wire.
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Last edited by US1 Fountain; 08-13-2012 at 09:50 PM.
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Thanks - from the wiring diagram, that appeared to be the best way to go about it. Although what's interesting is that the digram shows only one wire (power) from the solenoid to the 2 way flat and the other wire (ground) from the 2 way flat connector ties into the ground on the 4 way flat connector. A little bit of internet research shows two types of solenoids: one wire & two wire models. I'm guessing the one wire model grounds itself through the body of the solenoid. The two wire model isn't polarity sensitive; one power, one ground.
But how was that supposed to work originally? I guess it was before 7 blade RV receptacles became common and you had to splice your own wire into the vehicle reverse light circuit for the lockout to function? Either way it's gone this weekend - now to see if the solenoid actually works... Easy fix if it doesn't but bleeding trailer brakes is a pain - now I remember why the boat stays on a lift 360 days out of the year...
But how was that supposed to work originally? I guess it was before 7 blade RV receptacles became common and you had to splice your own wire into the vehicle reverse light circuit for the lockout to function? Either way it's gone this weekend - now to see if the solenoid actually works... Easy fix if it doesn't but bleeding trailer brakes is a pain - now I remember why the boat stays on a lift 360 days out of the year...
Last edited by Rufnek100; 08-14-2012 at 09:53 AM. Reason: typo
#4
There is an electrical connection box on your trailer. The simplest way would be to wire an entire new 7-pin pigtail to that box. The solenoid needs juice when your reverse lights are on.
I installed a new 7-pin pigtail from Champion Trailer Parts on my 2005 Myco. The only part that was goofy is the wires/colors/pinout location didnt quite jive with what they were supposed to, so I had to diagram it and place each wire in the box based on location/function and not color. It was not a big deal.
I installed a new 7-pin pigtail from Champion Trailer Parts on my 2005 Myco. The only part that was goofy is the wires/colors/pinout location didnt quite jive with what they were supposed to, so I had to diagram it and place each wire in the box based on location/function and not color. It was not a big deal.
#5
Thanks - from the wiring diagram, that appeared to be the best way to go about it. Although what's interesting is that the digram shows only one wire (power) from the solenoid to the 2 way flat and the other wire (ground) from the 2 way flat connector ties into the ground on the 4 way flat connector. A little bit of internet research shows two types of solenoids: one wire & two wire models. I'm guessing the one wire model grounds itself through the body of the solenoid. The two wire model isn't polarity sensitive; one power, one ground.
But how was that supposed to work originally? I guess it was before 7 blade RV receptacles became common and you had to splice your own wire into the vehicle reverse light circuit for the lockout to function? Either way it's gone this weekend - now to see if the solenoid actually works... Easy fix if it doesn't but bleeding trailer brakes is a pain - now I remember why the boat stays on a lift 360 days out of the year...
But how was that supposed to work originally? I guess it was before 7 blade RV receptacles became common and you had to splice your own wire into the vehicle reverse light circuit for the lockout to function? Either way it's gone this weekend - now to see if the solenoid actually works... Easy fix if it doesn't but bleeding trailer brakes is a pain - now I remember why the boat stays on a lift 360 days out of the year...
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Thanks all - if there's an electrical junction box, installing a sealed pigtail would certainly add to the long term reliability on the connections. And I'll keep a heads up and be sure not to match wire colors directly to keep everything where it's supposed to be; I could see bad things happening if the lockout is not on the correct pin.
Interesting is there are three different wiring diagrams on the Myco website and mine is the early one. It looks like now they're standardized with the 7 blade RV connectors. The extra 2 way flat pigtail design works I suppose, but certainly not ideal.
Interesting is there are three different wiring diagrams on the Myco website and mine is the early one. It looks like now they're standardized with the 7 blade RV connectors. The extra 2 way flat pigtail design works I suppose, but certainly not ideal.