GMC 2500HD 6.0L Mods...who's done what?
#11
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I would stick with an exhaust for the moment. It will give you a little more power. A tuner will help also. Most factory air filters will flow enough for the engine. As long as you don't go wild on the tune you should be OK with your warranty. I have a Hypertech but that was all that was available for my 8.1 at the time (except Diablo and they were having issues).
Wannabe
Wannabe
#13
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Perry Lake, KS Lake of Ozarks
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The tire light is most likely on.
Assuming your rims still have the TPMS, the threshold can be reduced to prevent the light from turning on. If rims were changed and tpms not reinstalled, i dont know if there is anything that can be done.
#14
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Just for your information the pressure on the sidewall is the Max. pressure, not the pressure you should always run. That is the max pressure for max load. If you are running max pressure on the rear of an empty pick-up you will most likely see more tire wear in the middle of the tread.
#16
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Get a proven catback exhaust from companies like corsa ,borla anything like they spend a lot of money on research to give you the best gains over a home built dual exhaust,check out www.performancetrucks.net they have everything on there with Dyno proven results.
#17
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: AZ
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Cat back is up to you, before you go deeper than that, I would do some research and how friendly the dealers in your area are regarding warranty work after you mod your truck.
Best thing you can do is a full custom tune, not just a handheld programmer. It will also allow you to adjust for tire size. But, as soon as you tune, most dealers are going to laugh at you if you have any engine issues.
Next level would be exhaust, headers, intake. Decent gains if combined with tuning, slight gain without. If you have DOD/ AFM, expect an odd exhaust note when it kicks in.
Next level would be Cam swap, etc., but I would do everything else first. If you get to this level, I would do a blower friendly cam and throw a blower on down the road assuming doing all of the other mods just weren't enough to keep you happy.
Best thing you can do is a full custom tune, not just a handheld programmer. It will also allow you to adjust for tire size. But, as soon as you tune, most dealers are going to laugh at you if you have any engine issues.
Next level would be exhaust, headers, intake. Decent gains if combined with tuning, slight gain without. If you have DOD/ AFM, expect an odd exhaust note when it kicks in.
Next level would be Cam swap, etc., but I would do everything else first. If you get to this level, I would do a blower friendly cam and throw a blower on down the road assuming doing all of the other mods just weren't enough to keep you happy.
#18
Well, the exhaust is done and I love it! 3" all the way into 4" polished stainless tips. Flowmaster super 40. And to tell you the truth there really is no drone on the highway. It is actually quiet when I am rolling along in sixth gear.
Very very loud and aggressive note though when I am coming off idle and bringing it up to speed.
Very very loud and aggressive note though when I am coming off idle and bringing it up to speed.
#19
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Dallas, TX
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here's what I've done on mine. . . . .
04 crew cab, 4wd, 4-speed auto
Tranny cooler, 40GRW TruCool plate style . . . made a huge difference, it's running in tandem with the radiator. Temps are hardly over 120 when pulling the boat.
L92 heads and intake swap
Home make 4" intake
42lb injectors
LS3 90mm TB :-)
3 cam swaps
212/218 high lift
224/230 581 591 -110 LSA
232/234 .588 .598 -112 LSA (Texas Speed Torqure V2)
Long Tube Stainless headers
Stainless Steel Works 1-7/8 headers
Stock cats, stock muffler
Custom 91 octane tune with HP tuners
Key crank leveling kit
Nitto Grapplers 33s (mistake) Should have stayed with Toyo Open Country MTs (mud terrains)
Stainless rear disk brakes ;-)
I usually drive at 80mph - 14-15mpg unloaded
pulling the boat 11-12 going 70-75, or 80 9-10
My advice if you want more bottom end power, go with a 212/218 low lift cam or a 210/220 Vinci Trucker cam
04 crew cab, 4wd, 4-speed auto
Tranny cooler, 40GRW TruCool plate style . . . made a huge difference, it's running in tandem with the radiator. Temps are hardly over 120 when pulling the boat.
L92 heads and intake swap
Home make 4" intake
42lb injectors
LS3 90mm TB :-)
3 cam swaps
212/218 high lift
224/230 581 591 -110 LSA
232/234 .588 .598 -112 LSA (Texas Speed Torqure V2)
Long Tube Stainless headers
Stainless Steel Works 1-7/8 headers
Stock cats, stock muffler
Custom 91 octane tune with HP tuners
Key crank leveling kit
Nitto Grapplers 33s (mistake) Should have stayed with Toyo Open Country MTs (mud terrains)
Stainless rear disk brakes ;-)
I usually drive at 80mph - 14-15mpg unloaded
pulling the boat 11-12 going 70-75, or 80 9-10
My advice if you want more bottom end power, go with a 212/218 low lift cam or a 210/220 Vinci Trucker cam
I have the 33" toyo MTs. Load range E. ProComp Leveling kit and shocks. every thing else stock w/ 3.73 ratio Lucky if I get 12 mpg without the boat. Wish I could squeeze a couple of mpgs out of it. But. Was Great at greeting me off the mountain during a mule deer hunt when the rain rolled in followed by snow. Thought about running stock tires during the summer but would have to buy new rubber to change the shoes.
What would bump up mpg? Gears. Intake. Muffler. Tune. ?? If you had to choose the best two.