modvp

Awesome, thanks!

darobinson23322

Ryan
Hope you read this post and maybe you can help me....I have a 2002VR1 with similar mods:
496 mag ho
Whipple Stage 2
Raylar intake mods with new 80 throttle body
New Raylar wires, 8 new coils
Stock thru hull exhaust turbulators are still in
Bravo 1 XZ drive
BBlades 26 pitch


The best I can get is 5000 @ 60 mph gps

I was about to give up but just stumbled across your post....thoughts?
Thanks Don

Padraig

Hi Don, not Ryan but maybe I can help. Assuming you have 1.5 gears something is wrong. Based on 5000 rpm and 60 MPH with a 26 inch prop you are at dam near 27% prop slip. You should at 12 % or better, that would bring you to 72 MPH at 5000 rpm. Is your tach accurate.

Can you tell us more about the boat, motor and prop history? Was the prop labbed for you? Bought new? Have you tried other props?

I know I have more questions then answers however as you know, something is wrong. You have a great boat don't give up, there is a lot of knowledge here.

Padraig

darobinson23322

Starting from the beginning: I purchased from an auction in Ft Lauderdale with the help of Kenny. Kenny did a quick check and cosmetically all appeared ok. The previous owner used the boat on the west coast of Florida. The story is the boat was stored on a lift and fell off during a storm. The boat was repaired and engine replaced with a 2004 (details below) and Bravo X drive drive. Over the past four years, I have been restoring and updating as much as possible. The prop that was on the boat when I purchased was a 26 pitch bravo. BBlades tried to work with it but broke a blade. With the info I provided BBlades the prop slip was 32%. Tried a 28 but could not get to 4800 - this was before the Whipple and Raylar upgrades. New paint and upholstery by Velocity in Orlando. I have a Rinda scan tool and no active alarms – indicates 100% power available. Speed is recorded using Garmin 740. There is about 100 RPM reading difference between the Rinda and RPM gauge. Really appreciate all the questions. Like I said, this has puzzled me for a few years.
Details:
496 Mag HO 0W064103
Bravo 1X Drive 1.5
Serial # (I’ll have to confirm)
26 pitch stock prop from bblades
New pulleys, water circulating pump and alternator
New Hardin Marine Sea Pump
Exhaust is stock / tabulators “in”
Raylar intake mods
Raylar 80 MM TB
Whipple Stage 2
New coils / new Raylar wires
Injectors cleaned this year
Kiekhaefer K Planes
2 batteries (60 lbs ea)
Most sensors replaced
Engine has about 180 hours

Thank you for your help! Don

Padraig

You wouldn't think a new prop from Bblades would be bad but the amount of slip you are getting is very high. Can you borrow one localy to try? What about the bottom? Is it straight? Maybe not repaired correctly after falling off lift.

Does come up on plane easily or does it struggle? You should be able to get on plane without the tabs but with more bow rise. I don't know your experience so I have to ask, are you over trimming the drive to get to 5000 rpm? Are your tabs working OK and retracting?

Thanks,

Padraig

SB

iTrader: (1)

Did the boat fall off lift into water and sink ?

darobinson23322

I am not sure about sinking.....I think just the bilge and stern area were submerged. Probably some intrusion under the floor but I would imagine all the water has worked it way out. The out drive bracket on the inside of the transom has signs of corrosion so I think the entire engine was submerged this is why the insurance company replaced the engine and out drive.No signs of remaining water.

No tabs the boat does come up on plane very easy, some additional bow rise. It's very strong out of the hole and through mid range. I don't use the tabs both are up.

To me the bottom does looks straight.


Over trim, I may be but I generally trim the out drive and can sense when there is to much. Also the speed will stop improving when I add to much trim.

The link below is a picture I found of my boat on the lift. I'm speculating this is where it fell from in a storm....all speculation


https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...act=mrc&uact=8



https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...act=mrc&uact=8


https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...act=mrc&uact=8



https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...act=mrc&uact=8



At Velocity for painting:

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...act=mrc&uact=8

Padraig

Might be worth while to put a straight edge on the last 6-8 feet of the hull. It should be straight.

SB what are you thinking? Bad transom or stringers? There is no wood in the VR 1 transom or stringer so should be OK without rot.

Anyone near the OP with a known 26 Bravo or Hydro prop? The 27% slip is bugging me! It would be nice to Eliiminate the prop as a problem.

Padraig

SB

iTrader: (1)

X a million

Prop
Thru hull pick up
Drive shower
Ear muffs still on drive or maybe even the trailer still attached to it ....lol....

darobinson23322

Thank you for your post! I'll measure the X dimension and get hold of a straight edge.

I wonder if it might be worth weighing the boat minus trailer?

Any recommendations on a shop in the southeastern US that does hull work?