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Originally Posted by excursion
(Post 2364495)
No you do not need 0 degree ballast, but I would go electronic ballast more energy efficient. They use the smaller bulbs not the large bulds. The 5200 series are the ones that look BLUE.
thnx again |
30 !!!!! What are you lighting up , WALMART?????
You are going to really enjoy them. I only turn on the center row when need light, but when need DAYLIGHT flip all the rows on and you can see perfect. |
When you fire them up you want to let them burn in for about 45 minutes to increase lamp life.
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Originally Posted by Expensive Date
(Post 3219082)
I did a quick quote of a building similar to what I built with Pioneer on that site. Including labor, it was less than 15% difference in pricing between the two. I have no idea on lumber quality of the DIY company. If you are getting close to pulling the trigger, give Pioneer a call. It's end of the month and end of the quarter. See what you can negotiate. |
Originally Posted by Sydwayz
(Post 3219211)
Tim,
I did a quick quote of a building similar to what I built with Pioneer on that site. Including labor, it was less than 15% difference in pricing between the two. I have no idea on lumber quality of the DIY company. If you are getting close to pulling the trigger, give Pioneer a call. It's end of the month and end of the quarter. See what you can negotiate. |
Originally Posted by excursion
(Post 2364539)
30 !!!!! What are you lighting up , WALMART?????
You are going to really enjoy them. I only turn on the center row when need light, but when need DAYLIGHT flip all the rows on and you can see perfect. thnx Excursion worked out awesome and would do it again the same :drink: |
If you don't mind me asking how much did your concrete cost.
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Originally Posted by Sydwayz
(Post 3219211)
Tim,
I did a quick quote of a building similar to what I built with Pioneer on that site. Including labor, it was less than 15% difference in pricing between the two. I have no idea on lumber quality of the DIY company. If you are getting close to pulling the trigger, give Pioneer a call. It's end of the month and end of the quarter. See what you can negotiate. I also found that there was only about a 10% price difference between a DIY kit and having the barn company erect it. I am in Missouri and used a company call BCI out of Oklahoma. As far as your land clearing is concerned I had to remove a forest for mine so I rented a highlift and pushed all the trees down. It worked really slick and I was able to clear the whole area in about 3 1/2 hours. Good luck.. |
I have not poured the slab yet. I still have a gravel floor with thick plastic on top.
(This is actually a huge advantage of a post-frame construction building vs. girder steel frame or "aircraft hanger" type of steel building. Both require significant footings and high concrete costs UP FRONT.) The portion of the property where my Toy Box is in a very wet area at certain times of the year. I had to build up the road with sand, and had to scoop out almost 2 full feet of natural soil where the barn pad would be, and fill it in with crushed rock, sand, under-road construction felt, and more sand. I have #57 crush and run that has been my "floor" for since I erected it. I wanted to make damn sure I was not going to have any settling before I went with concrete. That said, I anticipate finally doing it this fall. I slowed my schedule due to this demolition derby impulse decision. My concrete piers were poured by the barn company, which is what my posts rest on. They were then filled in with Sac-Crete. This was all including in the building/labor. I anticipate 2200 sq ft of concrete including building floor and an apron to cost around $6K when all is said and done. |
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