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Originally Posted by slboatdrinks
(Post 2957273)
Ummm....really.....
The boat would work great with the Arnesons as Harry Shoel designed the bottom to work with Surface Drives. Cost wise, our #7M's have replaced our ASD6's as we upgraded the power rating and a lot of other things, but fit the same installation window as the ASD6's did. The #7M's list at $$$$K each complete from the bell housing rearward. Bellhousing Drive Plate Transmission with oil cooler, hoses and fittings BAM 1350 Transmission Drive Line Rear Engine Mount Arneson Standoff Box (covers your Bravo cutout) External Steering Cylinder with hoses and fittings External Trim Cylinder with hoses and fittings #7M Drive, RH or LH rotation, 1.32:1 or 1.56:1 reductions Helm Unit Mounting Hardware, bolts, studs, nuts, washers, etc.. |
Remember that Harry played with the early Pulse drives on the DDC hull(s).
The basic theory behind the DDC/Active Thunder step hull design is such that the back of the step, the edge of the transom, and the propshafts are designed to be on the same plane, all things being equal. (However, some drives and prop packages provide more or less transom lift, hence some adjustment in X-dimensions.) |
Originally Posted by Sydwayz
(Post 2957291)
Remember that Harry played with the early Pulse drives on the DDC hull(s).
The basic theory behind the DDC/Active Thunder step hull design is such that the back of the step, the edge of the transom, and the propshafts are designed to be on the same plane, all things being equal. (However, some drives and prop packages provide more or less transom lift, hence some adjustment in X-dimensions.) |
I wouldn't say no.
But you are going to have some learning to do. The options have never been fully explored. |
Originally Posted by Sydwayz
(Post 2957301)
I wouldn't say no.
But you are going to have some learning to do. The options have never been fully explored. |
I would think about going with solid lifter cams and spin the crap out of the mills to get to N/A 725 hp, maybe 6000-6500 rpm. That way you are not making a lot of torque at low rpms that eats the drives.
You need to change the rotating assemblies to get 540's anyway so make it handle the extra rpms. Let us know how it goes. |
At 6000 rpm, 1.5 ratio drives, 30" pitch b1's and 10% slip you will be right at 100 mph. Obviously everything above 6000 rpm is gravy.
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You don't even have to change props!!!
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A N/A 502 can make 600 hp with 1.2 hp/ci with good heads and increased compression good cam etc at 5500 rpm. A 540 with the same 1.2 hp/ci will be 650 hp at the crank which will probably not get you to 100 mph. I think you will have to increase the rpm range of the engine and maybe some other mods to get to 725 hp/side to get the 100 mph.
Bob Madara did make 725 hp with a 540 hp for one of his customers last winter. I would give him a call. |
How about blowers on 502s?
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