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Old 08-14-2016, 12:26 PM
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Default Fuse location

Where else might I find fuses on a 96' AT 32, I have found hem behind the dash (one small bank of two, then another bank of about a dozen), 2 behind the cabin switch panel and a circuit breaker on each engine. I am wondering where things like the sump pump and auto simp pump are fused...are all of the boat mechanics less the cabin fused behind the dash or might there be a location I have not found?

I am writing because the auto sump does not work but the manual does and I believe the green wire feeding the sump connector bank is not getting the signal the auto signal putting a charge in the green signal wire I have verified the pump works running it on manual. I also cut the water wetter sensor out of the loop to factor that out, I also measured for charge and there is none. Next place to chase the green signal wire....unless there is an easier option?
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Old 08-14-2016, 01:01 PM
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1. Its not sump, it is a bilge pump
2. A solid green wire by ABYC standards is what?? GROUND.
3. By ABYC standards, pumps are fed by BROWN wires
4. Power feeds to auto bilge switches should be either brown or brown with an orange stripe.
5. Most people fuse the float switch straight to the battery. This makes the auto bilge circuit active without you having to turn on the battery switch, flip a dash swith etc, thereby making it idiot proof.
6. Im guessing this thing you are calling a water wetter sensor is a float or automatic bilge switch. If you "remove that from the loop" how is your bilge pump going to automatically work?

Black Grounds, General
Black/Brown Pump Grounds
Black/Red Voltmeter Grounds
Black/Orange Isolated Accessory Grounds
Black/Yellow Ignition stop
Black/Green Water Level Sender Ground
Black/Blue Lighting Grounds
Black/Gray Battery Parallel Solenoid
Brown Pumps, General, Bilge or Sump (Manually Switched)(Also alternator starter to Ign.)
Brown/Red Pumps, Bilge
Brown/Orange Power feed to Auto Bilge Switches, Pumps, Fuel/Oil Tranfer or Priming
Brown/Yellow Baitwell or Aerator
Brown/Green Fresh Water Pump/Water Maker
Brown/Blue Head Pump
Brown/Violet Washdown Pump
Brown/White Trim pos sender
Red Battery Feeds Unprotected
Red/Violet Misc. Accy. Main Feed Protected (fused) from batt to trim panel.
Pink Fuel Sender
Orange/Black Audio System Feed
Orange/Brown Electric Head, Sanitation System
Orange/Red Wiper Port
Orange Accessories common feed, Dist Panel to Acc switch, Anode Electrode, Mercathode
Orange/Yellow Diesel Preheat
Orange/Green Wiper Stbd
Orange/Blue Communications Equipment
Orange/Violet Navigation Equipment
Orange/White Wiper Center
Yellow/Black Choke Neutral saftey trans mounted
Yellow/Red Start Solenoid (starting circut), Neutral Safety
Yellow/Orange Powered Ventilation, Fans
Yellow Bilge Blowers (also alternator DC output)
Yellow/White Rudder Angle Sender
Green/Red Stop Solenoid/Kill Switch
Green/Yellow AC Grounding
Green Bonding
Green/White Engine Trim in and or tilt down
Green/Orange Engine Independent Trim down
Blue/Black Cabin Lights
Blue/Brown Oil Temp Send
Blue/Red Cabin or Cockpit Lights Port
Blue/Orange Engine Independent Tilt Up
Blue/Yellow Lighting Circuits to Remote Send
Blue/Green Cabin or Cockpit Lights Stbd
Blue Instrument & General Lighting
Blue/Violet Courtesy, Boarding Lighting
Blue/White Engine Trim Outand/or Tilt Up
Light Blue Oil Pressure
Violet/Red Eng. or Generator B+ from Breaker
Violet/Yellow I/O Trim Up (ballast bypass)
Violet/Green I/O Trim Down
Violet 12v Ignition Generator or Engine
Violet/White Trim "Trailer" switch
Gray/Black Mast Light
Gray/Red Spotlight Remote
Gray/Orange Docking Lights
Gray/Green Strobe or Beacon
Gray/Blue Spreader/Flood Lights
Gray/Violet Windlass/Winch
Gray Navigation (running) Lights, Tach. Send
Gray/White Anchor Light
White/Brown Temp. Alarm or Indicator
White/Red Fuel Alarm or Indicator ((Ignition module to Dist.)Mercury Thunderbolt Ignition)
White/Orange Fire Alarm or Indicator
White/Yellow Air Flow Alarm or Indicator
White/Green Water Press/Flow Alarm or Indicator ((Ignition module to Dist.)Mercury Thunderbolt Ignition)
White/Blue Oil Press Alarm or Indicator
White/Violet Voltage Alarm or Indicator
White General Alarm Usage, Yamaha Kill Switch
Tan Water Temp sender
Tan/Blue Warning system sense wire (Audio warning)
About CP Per
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Old 08-15-2016, 02:43 PM
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I've learned a bit more since my previous note.

1) Sorry for the sump/bilge confusion, I replaced the sump earlier this spring after it failed and my basement flooded, maybe I was drawing a correlation here :-)
2) I’m not convinced that wire color coding was followed on this boat. For example the same black and red wire used for speakers is also used for lights such as the one behind the dash, in the head, in the engine compartment (I didn't check for this everywhere). Coming into the terminal block used to power the bilge on both port and starboard engines. Starboard side is set up to run manually, port side was set up to run a pump on both auto & manual.

The thing I called water wetter is a water witch which is the automatic switch vs float (water wetter is the stuff I put in my car to keep the temp about 10 degrees cooler when running hard on a race track - if you have a closed system running warm, try it - it is a redline product). Coming into the terminal connector is what really looks like old romax (but it is marked for marine use) it has a white, green and black wire and are all attached to a terminal on the connector. The manual pump itself has a black and brown wire and is connected to the terminal; black to black (-) and green to brown (+)..so green is hot when the manual switch comes on. The white wire is not used.

On the auto side, the water witch has a black, brown and red wire. Brown and black are wired same as the manual so it too will kick on when the manual pumps are switched on. The white wire I suspect should always be hot and would enable the automatic aspect of the pump (water witch) to turn on when water is detected and this would open a circuit to the pump feed power to the pump. The red wire on the water witch is connected to the same terminal the white wire is. The water wetter uses a gray wire to send the charge coming from the red wire to the 2nd terminal where the brown wire for both pumps are also connected on the pump, as a result of this approach it also puts the starboard side pump in an automatic mode too when charge is put into bank 2 where both pump brown wires are connected. It appears the intent is to enable the port & starboard side pump for both auto and manual use with a single automatic switch (I suppose if this was a pump with an internal float, only the pump with the float would be started when the water is detected because it has no way to send a charge to bank 2). Water witch.

I have nothing to draw this out with, but maybe this will help explain;

Bank 1 - Black wire in || terminal connector || Black wire out to both starboard and port pump

Bank 2 - green wire in || terminal connector || brown wire to port and starboard pumps, gray wire from water witch

Bank 3 - White wire in || terminal connector || red wire to water witch which will send a charge down the tan wire into bank 2 when water is detected

I just found the water witch diagram and it appears to be wired for a single pump and automatic use only. Both pump and water witch black wires are grounded (bank 1 - black). The green wire coming into the terminal connector is not used. The white wire coming into the terminal is attached to the red wire on the water witch and the tan wire coming from the water witch is attached to the brown wire on the water witch.

Bank 1 - Black wire in || terminal connector || Black wire out to both starboard and port pump

Bank 2 - green wire in || terminal connector || not used

Bank 3 - White wire in || terminal connector || red wire to water witch which will send a charge down the tan wire into the brown wire on the pump.

The problem for both of these is that there is no charge coming in on the white wire. I could run a charge directly from the battery but without knowing what is on the other side of the white wire I was concerned about putting a charge on this line. I always carry a spare pump w/ float on the board, so with very limited time to correct this I used the spare pump and ran a charge directly from the battery (if I missed Sunday dinner because I was messing with the boat, the wife would have words for me).

#4 – charge coming to the terminal bank is white, charge going into the pump is brown, charge going to the water witch is red and charge from water witch to the pulp is gray (and water witch claims to be ABYC compliant).

#5 – this idea dawned on me while I was wiring up my backup pump. I’m going to try wiring the water witch directly to the battery and leverage the rest of the existing pump configuration (water witch being able to activate both pumps in an automatic manner.

#6 – yes, water witch is the automatic switch I just took the water witch out of the circuit as a troubleshooting step to see if it was either the pump or the water witch had a product defect.

SO, all problems seem to lead back to what I presume should be a constant charge flowing through the white wire leading into the terminal connector. Without this charge the water witch is not powered and therefore cannot release a charge through the tan wire to power both pumps.

It sounds as though the best option I previously mentioned and this is to disconnect the white from the terminal connector and to run power from the battery to the terminal connector the white wire was on…then wire everything back the way it was.(described above).

This still leaves the mystery of why the white wire is no longer carrying a charge and I would really like to know what happened to cause this. This wire runs worn the pvc used to run all wires from the back of the boat to the back of the dash. All of these wires are then zipped together making a bundle of wires about 2” in diameter and I am afraid I could cause more harm than good opening this up.

I sure wish I had an AT wiring diagram, any chance one is produced for AT retailers/official service locations that I can buy?...I suspect not which is why color coding wires is super important. All of this troubleshooting takes so much more time than necessary, however on the positive side, I am learning a lot more about the boat than I ever thought I would…and I am becoming an expert at applying wire connectors
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