Pat & the Active Thunder camp HELP please...
#1
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Engine hatch is stuck in down position!!
Power is at switch on dash. Circuit breaker also appears to be functioning.
How do I get my hatch open? All other electrical is fine.
Power is at switch on dash. Circuit breaker also appears to be functioning.
How do I get my hatch open? All other electrical is fine.
#2
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I have been told you can manually lift it, but its hard with the hydraulic cylinders. I DO NOT KNOW IF IT ACTUALLY WORKS, I HAVE NEVER TRIED. Eat your Wheaties first and let us know how you make out.
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ive had that happen several times on my 32 power at switch and i found that i had to pull the hatch fuse and the wires coming into it and also the main ground wires beside the hatch wires at the fuse panel and clean them good from corosion and then it works fine, its worth a try. have somebody hold the hatch switch on while you wiggle those wires arond and it will be easier to pin point the problem.
#4
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Brian, Under the rear seat of my 25 are three switches....check them to make sure they havn't been tripped. ( If your 37 has them). My hatch wouldn't open and that was the problem. But before I found this I lifted it manually....very heavy even for a 25!!
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have had the electric motor go bad myself....removed the vent covers and put every socket extension we had on (use duct tape!)....then remove the bolt(S)...have fun.
#6
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Fixed it.
BOTH spade connectors on the hatch ram came loose.
Had to remove rear hinge pins, and lift hatch up with 2x4s. This was NOT kind to the hatch, but the only way in.
Word to the wise. Create yourself a contingency plan right now for getting into your hatch. I had one built in on the Sonic, and never thought twice about the A/T. I got bit by it. Suggest you remove your hatch bolts and insert a pull pin with a wire run to your outside vent that you can pull off when needed.
BOTH spade connectors on the hatch ram came loose.
Had to remove rear hinge pins, and lift hatch up with 2x4s. This was NOT kind to the hatch, but the only way in.
Word to the wise. Create yourself a contingency plan right now for getting into your hatch. I had one built in on the Sonic, and never thought twice about the A/T. I got bit by it. Suggest you remove your hatch bolts and insert a pull pin with a wire run to your outside vent that you can pull off when needed.
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Brain,
Good to hear. Ok, We have used a pin instead of the bolt for the race boats. I'm thinking if we use that in standard production that you will be able to access it through the side vent which is only double-sided taped in place. That would take what? A pole with a hook I would guess? The wire idea is okay but needs some thought. Not too many complaints about the motor quitting in the past.
Pat
Good to hear. Ok, We have used a pin instead of the bolt for the race boats. I'm thinking if we use that in standard production that you will be able to access it through the side vent which is only double-sided taped in place. That would take what? A pole with a hook I would guess? The wire idea is okay but needs some thought. Not too many complaints about the motor quitting in the past.
Pat
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I just checked it out on my Nortech, just in case the same thing happened to me. Their solution is on the rear seats there is a false cushion that pulls out to a storage area, and in the corner is a 6" screw in type mechenism that gets you right to the pins in the engine compartment. The only problem was, I could not lift it myself, I guess I better go back on my Wheaties program
Jeff
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#10
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I am going to replace my bolt with a pin, and run a wire to the pin, tied to the left port rear hinge. In the event I need to gain access again, I can pull the hinge bolt, and slightly lift the port rear side of the hitch, and move the wire around the hatch, to parallel with the direction the pin would need to be pulled from the port side of the engine compartment.