Apache Skout transom
 

major setback todayI found the entire transom needs to be replaced because of rot.... I've never had to replace a transom before so this should be fun my only concern is how do I cut the stringers out and then reattach them.

Todd

Here is a link to my scout escapades.... Post some picture on what you have to work with....

Jr.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...che-scout.html

Nice tread to know the how to!!!

Mine is a i/o. 5.7 with a alpha

Any pics on the inside transom wall slog with any battery shelves and how the stringers meet up to the transom. The layout will drive the direction you take. Let's see how it looks...

TC9ball, If there is anyone who knows how to repair that transom, it's J-Bonz. Put up some photos and trust in his engineering expertise, it will probably end up stronger than the original.....

I'll be putting up pictures as soon as I can. ... too much sun right now.
I'll take any advice. ... never done this before

Here's a couple Pic's. I marked one picture with the Stringers where I've been told is a "Good Place too cut" Before I do make the cut I want to be sure I do it correctly, I hate making more work for myself cause I messed something up.


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Some more Pic's. I had power tools in my hand and I was not a happy camper when I found out how bad the Rot was, I gently put down the Power tools and backed off. Then I had a beer! or 2, or 3... IDK how many...lol


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Didn't get much done yesterday except make room in the Shop to put the Apache inside. I know I have a lot of work to do on Her but, I am shooting for Mid June to be in the water!

Todd

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I wouldnt cut the stringers any more than you need to get the new plywood in. Maybe just cut enough now to get the old out then see how much more you really need when trying to stuff two layers of 3/4 ply in the back of the boat. Good times! start praying now that your stringers are solid.

search for "corebond" in the fiberglass section, its the best way to go for bedding the new transom in

After work today I'll be hacking away at this LOL I'll post pictures of the progress!

Todd

2.5 hours into this project and this is all I got done...[ATTACH=CONFIG]541583[/ATTACH]

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Oh. And I found both stringers rotted
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I need a beer! Uggggg

Oh. And I found both stringers rotted
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I need a beer! Uggggg

My stringers looked like that and the rot stopped completely before the engine bay bulkhead, i dunno what your stringer layout is but you might get lucky and just have do from the bulkhead back. You shoulda cut a little deeper with the skil saw, i made the same mistake now its a ***** to pop the last layer out. Hopefully my boat doesnt crack in half because im a hack and i didnt scarf them in just glassed the F out of them. Ive seen them done both ways so im not really that worried.

A mason cut off wheel on a grinder works good for cutting the glass but is also possibly one of the most dangerous tools invented haha! I also wish i had used a 9 inch grinder would have made my life a lot easier.

I used a chainsaw to get the rest of the transom out from where you are now cutting little squares and popping them out with a prybar. an electric chainsaw works good if you know someone with one, i happened to have one for some reason its better than the gas one because less oil on the chain etc

I guess it's off to Lowes to buy some more power tools...WooooHoooo

Hey TC,
Sorry I haven't responded sooner. I finally found some time to sit down and right a respose. I am sorry to hear you found more rot. Like sparky said above, I hope that's the extent of it.

Fist off, I appreciate Phil's comment about being an expert but I am far from that. To be honest, I gotta give credit to where it's due. Thru out my project Glass Dave stepped me thru it. Reading OSO threads helped but Dave was the man.

On to your project. 1st suggestion is be safe. New tools, new situation, and new techniques. Don't rush it. Also, invest in a good respirator & safety glasses. With that disclaimer out of the way, hammer, pry bars, oscillating tool, and flap disk should keep you going. I found the oscillating tool to be awesome. Easy to use, safe, and low on dust.

I think your at the point where you need less direction and more of a pep talk.. It's all gotta come out and be grounded down smooth for reinstallation. Keep in mind, you can either stack the transom in or out of the boat.

What direction are you going to go.... Epoxy or polyester/ vinyl ester?

I've been using Dust masks and safety glasses but a respirator would be a better choice, Defiantly need one when I start doing the Epoxy/Painting.

If the Weather clears up I'll be digging out more of the Rot tonight! I have my hammer and pry bars, standing by...LOL Having the right tools make the job a lot easier so looks like a oscillating tool is defiantly in my future, Maybe next payday!

I'll build the Transom in the Shop and then Install it assembled, I think the Epoxy Resin seems to be the Choice of most, so that is what I'm leaning towards.

Todd

Epoxy is a waste of money and more difficult to work with because it is too thick to quickly wet out 1708. Vinylester resin is cheaper and the correct resin to use, it is much stronger than polyester resin but retains the same ease of use. I was paying 120 per 5 gallon bucket.. I used 15 gallons of vinylester resin and 4 gallons of polyester but that was including a lot of cabin work where I used poly only. Also you cant gelcoat the epoxy if you use it... but really polyester is fine to use, its good enough, but if you want something a little tougher the vinylester is a good choice plus it is waterproof while polyester isnt

Buy a 3M full face respirator http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=2180 only way to go

Has anyone used "Coosa Board" for a Transom?

Todd

Will the Vinylester resin bond to what ever Apache used to build the Scout back in the Day?

Todd

Apache more than likely built the boat using polyester resin . In the hierarchy of resins , Polyester is the entry level , Vinylester mid level and Epoxy top level . Any resin will bond down the chain , but will not bond up the chain , or at aleast I wouldn't trust it to . You should be fine using the Vinlester on the Apache . In fact it will result in a better fisinhed product . Unlike polyester it will foam abit once you add the catylist than is normal and will mix in after a few moments .
Cheers Rick G.

Thanks Rick... I'm not really sure what to do yet.... but I have time to figure it all out. .. I messed up my thumb friday. Only 2 stich e's but possible nerve damage. Two weeks in a splint. I still need to dig out the old transom.

Todd

I would only use Vinylester or Epoxy. The bond that Vinylester makes is much stronger than Poly. Epoxy makes a chemical bond where as Vinyl a mechanical bond. Vinyl will bond to poly but not the other way around. If you're unsure if the boat is poly or vinyl you should use vinyl. No one really uses poly when building HP boats anymore.

Epoxy definitely takes longer to wet out and if using Epoxy I suggest using 1700 cloth instead of 1708. 1708 has the backer which is meant for vinyl and poly resin, Epoxy does not need it and the cloth will wet out much faster.

I've used both and can honestly say that Epoxy is much stronger and has a much better bond. however, there's nothing wrong with Vinyl and it's cheaper. If you're a beginner, the benefit of using Epoxy is that you can use tropical hardener which gives you more working time.

Good luck!

You want to use 3/4 marine ply for the transom the coosa board stuff needs to have stainless spacers installed with every major bolt or else it will compress i believe. From what i heard it can also flex too much for a high performance application. Plywood is still the best way to do it and is 100 bucks a sheet normally for marine grade vs a lot more for coose i think.

Its funny everybody always has the same questions, epoxy, coosa board, what to bed the plywood in with. Search the fiberglass forum for glass daves posts about everything. I researched for months before doing mine haha.

After a back injury and then a hand injury I'm back at work on the Transom, I got a little over half of the old one out..... and Boy, is it slow going. I'll post some pictures this weekend.

Todd

What ever happened to this project?

I own it now, It's got a Coosa Transom with 2" wide Coosa Stringers with Carbon Fiber and Kevlar Gussets with Epoxy (No More Wood in the Engine Bay) I've got a 415ci Ls and a Bravo. I'm making a Mold from the 90lb Engine Hatch and will make one thats 20lbs or so with Carbon Fiber.. I still need to measure for Headers..

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8f61f807c3.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a854b8a081.jpg

There is two of those Gussets on each outboard side of the stringers, and two more Plys of Coosa as well..

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...cb7c4a61c4.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...089e8ea4cd.jpg

who's pulley system is that ? looks nice

Hardin Marine, I Believe I've Made their Christmas for the Past Two Years.. Lol

Looks like Hardin Marine for the LS. Has the sea water pump below alt.
He don't have the pulley on it.