20 Outlaw vs 22' Scarab -- Opinions?
10-01-2007, 10:45 AM
#22
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One more thing.
I really do like the new, modern liner of the late model OL. It looks so clean. Also, the OL has a clean engine compartment, where as the Scarab has carpet (Yuk!) I do though like the lines of the Scarab better and the way that it sits in the water. Just personal preference. Either way, you will have a blast in either boat!
I really do like the new, modern liner of the late model OL. It looks so clean. Also, the OL has a clean engine compartment, where as the Scarab has carpet (Yuk!) I do though like the lines of the Scarab better and the way that it sits in the water. Just personal preference. Either way, you will have a blast in either boat!
10-01-2007, 04:21 PM
#23
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Thread Starter
I agree about the liner of the outlaw, it looks much more modern, easier to clean... however, that's where my love for the interior of the outlaw ends. The dash, to me, looks a little too much like my friend's sea-doo jet boat. Just not my thing, really. I like the dash of the Scarab much better.
The engine compartment is an issue, but one I'm willing to overlook.
As far as the length, it seems to be highly trailer-dependent -- I spoke to a trailer manufacturer, who feels that he can build a trailer that won't be much longer than the boat itself....
The engine compartment is an issue, but one I'm willing to overlook.
As far as the length, it seems to be highly trailer-dependent -- I spoke to a trailer manufacturer, who feels that he can build a trailer that won't be much longer than the boat itself....
10-02-2007, 11:51 AM
#27
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The specs page that came directly from Wellcraft and with the boat calls the beam 8.6. But the owners manual I just looked at on Wellcraft's website says 8. Go figure.
Moreover, there are two owners manuals on Wellcraft's website for the 22. One lists the dry weight at 3200 Lbs (which I believe is correct) and the other manual lists it at 3800!
I really do believe the beam is 8.6, though. Seems I've heard and read this number more than the 8 number. If you need 8 for your garage, you should double check this!
Moreover, there are two owners manuals on Wellcraft's website for the 22. One lists the dry weight at 3200 Lbs (which I believe is correct) and the other manual lists it at 3800!
I really do believe the beam is 8.6, though. Seems I've heard and read this number more than the 8 number. If you need 8 for your garage, you should double check this!
10-02-2007, 01:52 PM
#28
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One thing I hate is having to dunk the trailer in so far that you have to wade through shin-high water, on an already-slippery ramp, to get on the trailer and hook/unhook the boat. It depends a lot on the ramp, but I've found this happens to me at high-tide on some ramps.
But if you "shrink" the trailer so much that the bow is practically over your bumper, you may have to dunk the rear axle of the tow vehicle to get the boat to float every time.
I know you've got your garage limits to deal with; a folding or retracting tongue may be best.
10-02-2007, 02:37 PM
#30
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Good points -- well taken.
The storage situation is what it is -- unless I want to pay $110/month for a space in a self-storage lot, which will be outdoors. If I want indoor storage on-site at my house, then there's got to be some compromises, even if it means some inconvenience at the ramp.
My tow vehicle (2000 Tahoe) is 4WD, so other than the corrosion risks, I don't care about dunking the rear end of the truck in the water if need be. I figure, if I'm washing the boat and trailer down after use, as I should be, then it's not much more work to hose off the rear axle of the Tahoe if need be.
Ask me again how I feel after actually trying this in the real world -- my answer may be different. The next (bigger) boat will not happen unless I move to a place where I could keep a bigger boat, and that's not happening any time soon.
Thanks for the input!
Andrew
The storage situation is what it is -- unless I want to pay $110/month for a space in a self-storage lot, which will be outdoors. If I want indoor storage on-site at my house, then there's got to be some compromises, even if it means some inconvenience at the ramp.
My tow vehicle (2000 Tahoe) is 4WD, so other than the corrosion risks, I don't care about dunking the rear end of the truck in the water if need be. I figure, if I'm washing the boat and trailer down after use, as I should be, then it's not much more work to hose off the rear axle of the Tahoe if need be.
Ask me again how I feel after actually trying this in the real world -- my answer may be different. The next (bigger) boat will not happen unless I move to a place where I could keep a bigger boat, and that's not happening any time soon.
Thanks for the input!
Andrew
Even though I've been boating forever, only in the last year have I learned the nuances of "trailer boating"...
One thing I hate is having to dunk the trailer in so far that you have to wade through shin-high water, on an already-slippery ramp, to get on the trailer and hook/unhook the boat. It depends a lot on the ramp, but I've found this happens to me at high-tide on some ramps.
But if you "shrink" the trailer so much that the bow is practically over your bumper, you may have to dunk the rear axle of the tow vehicle to get the boat to float every time.
I know you've got your garage limits to deal with; a folding or retracting tongue may be best.
One thing I hate is having to dunk the trailer in so far that you have to wade through shin-high water, on an already-slippery ramp, to get on the trailer and hook/unhook the boat. It depends a lot on the ramp, but I've found this happens to me at high-tide on some ramps.
But if you "shrink" the trailer so much that the bow is practically over your bumper, you may have to dunk the rear axle of the tow vehicle to get the boat to float every time.
I know you've got your garage limits to deal with; a folding or retracting tongue may be best.
