Michael55123

Have a 97 24 Outlaw. 454 with about 15 hours on it, dyno'd at 500hp. Have a Bravo one, and what I was told, and the prop reads 26p. Boat seems to run pretty healthy, don't have GPS, or a speedo though. I'd like to get all the top end out of it I can, and drop cruising RPM's. My friends all have some serious 30+ foot advantages with twins, and cruise around 55mph or so. What would be best for this?

Also my speedo, trim tab indicators, and depth finder don't work. I think the depth finder, and trim tab indicator might just be a power/wiring issue as neither of them seem to have any power. Ideas on this?

Where's the best place to get a full cover, I can tow with, on a 24 outlaw w/ swim platform?

Silly question, but how much fuel capacity does a 24ft outlaw have?

Oil changes, best to suck it out with a pump? 20w-50 seem good?

Also seeing a little more water than I'd like to after running/sitting in the bilge. Problem areas I should check? Boat was kept inside it's entire life up until the beginning of this year. Guy that owned it for most of this season literally treated it like a garbage can, and left it out uncovered 24/7 for ~4 months. I've cleaned it the best I could. I need my swim deck, back seat, and drivers seat recovered/fixed. Ideas on where to get this done, or is somewhere local best?


Also my swim deck has to be PUSHED/SHOVED up while pushing the button for the actuator. Do I just need a new actuator? The material seems REALLY tight around the edges.


Bumpers? Where do I get nice bumpers? My little silly bumpers were making people tied up to my nervous.

Switches, all of the wording/markings are warn off all of my switches, best place to get them?


Sorry for all the ridiculous questions. I have no idea where to start, but this seems like a good place and a very helpful community. Thanks guys.

Ebay Ed

good luck on the switches you probably wont be able to find a full set all of the same great lakes skipper has some for any interior work get ahold of XT Innovations in Bucyrus Ohio they are all ex baja employees and have most if not all of the factory patterns as for the water in the bilge good luck could be anything mine was the seal on the gimble housing my hole was cut to big and caused all sorts ofg issues see the thread i love my baja but .... and also you can see some of XT's work on my boat under the rebirth of a baja or guess who's boat threads another message board with lots of good info is www.bajaboatowners .com good luck and welcome to the Baja world Ed

Michael55123

Ed, thanks I appreciate it. I looked at Great Lakes Marine, and they're missing a lot of the switches I'd need to complete the set. I might have to get ahold of them, it looks like they do quality work.

How did you end up finding your leak? I tried to check it out with the hatch up, but I wasn't seeing anything obvious.

Ebay Ed

i got my fenders at walmart they are nice taylor made i think but they do a good job and are not supper expensive where are you located at ???

Michael55123

I'm in the St. Louis area. Belleville/Shiloh Illinois to be exact.

Baja_342

Have a smart phone? Plenty of free apps for GPS speedo. Probably want to get accurate numbers at certain RPMs before you mess with a prop.

+1 on XT Innovations. Dave has helped me with a few custom items for my Baja. iboats.com go2marine.com should have full covers. XT may be able do custom covers. He did my cockpit cover.

Walmart in your area may not have fenders this time of year. Online may be your best bet as summer unfortunately winds down. I also use Taylor Made. You probably want at least 6". I use 8.5" diameter.

I may have a switch cover or two that may work for you, but I replaced mine for the same reasons so they're not all perfect. I used the newer style black ones form Great Lakes Skipper. I couldn't find the horn or ACC ones so I used blank ones.

I run 20-50 in my 502s. I'd get a good electric pump, the kind that fits on a 5 gal bucket. Run you about $100 but is worth it.

Tim

n20michael

have a 24ft Outlaw myself, great boat for what I do!

The tab indicators are notorious for not working, especially the "Trim Smart/Boat leveler" style. I assume you have the electric indicators, not mechanical ones? If you have the electric ones you can try moving the transducer that clamshells onto the existing trim ram "side to side", sometimes you get lucky and a bit of dirt or sediment builds up on the ram and blocks the signal to the indicator. You can try removing them and cleaning them too, if you turn your key on and you have all the lights on one side light up and none on the other, its probably the indicator, try searching "Boat leveler" on Ebay, there are quite a few places that will sell you a complete kit, MUCH easier than trying to splice, patch and troubleshoot the existing one. Pull the indicator gauge out [or crawl under the dash] and see if the wires are connected to the gauge itself, you might be lucky and the wires have just come undone, the older ones look kinda look a phone plug.

I recommend XT myself, I have never actually purchased anything from them, but, I have seen there work first hand, its priced fair and the stuff I have seen was actually BETTER than the originally Baja stuff, they make a full cover that actually hangs down over the sides of the boat, real sweet set up!

My boat holds 100 US gallons of fuel, I am currently using Shell Rotella T in my boat, but, other than Stainless Marine exhaust its bone stock. I had the top end done a few years back by Bullet Engines and its run like a swiss watch since.

There are several VERY long posts on this site about "oil" you can read for hours if you want to, a lot of really knowledgeable fella's on this site, with a ton of experience too!

I bought a "hand" operator "fluid remover" for $50, its a manual one [you have to keep pumping it] but, it will suck all the oil out of the boat in about 20 mins and works well. I bought a longer length of hose for it so I can leave the pump on the ground with the boat on the trailer [or at the dock]

I had the same problem with water leaking, my problem was the gimble ring seal, over time the gimble ring hole starts to "round" and water leaks past the seal, the BAD news is the motor will probably have to come out to change it. you might want to just buy a complete transom assembly if yours needs work. I was lucky and found a new gimble ring and changed the ring and swivel pin/seal. There is a slim chance it could be the transom seal itself, but, that generally is only if the boat has seen salt water.

JR marine make a really nice stainless steel swivel pin that will last much longer and fits perfect, they also sell a kit that allows you to change the swivel pin without pulling the motor. You could also be leaking water around the bellows, especially if they are the originals and the boat has been sitting. You can also check any "thru hull" fittings such as your depth finder/speedo, trim tab lines etc and see if any of those are leaking. If the boat has "sat" the silicone or sealer might have hardened up or cracked. I actually put my boat on the trailer, parked it on a downhill grade [my boat lauch] and used a hose to fill the bilge partly with water and then looked at the transom from the outside for leaks.

There might be a grease fitting on your actuator, so, try greasing it, or better yet, take it apart and get all the "old" grease out of it. Another problem is there isn't a relay between the switch for the actuator and the actuator itself, so, once you figure out whats wrong with the actuator, do yourself a favor and wire 2 relays [1 for up, 1 for down] to the actuator, it will work MUCH better.

If you want "nice" bumpers, I would just go to Wal Mart, sometimes "Costco" has them too, since its getting close to the "end" of summer [SIGH!] keep an eye out for places selling off there "summer" stuff, you might get a good deal on a set, you can also buy nice fender "covers" to make them look nice, get yourself some nice mooring lines and you can tie up with anyone without worrying.

Welcome to the fold! I am new to this site myself, but, I have learned more from the fella's on here in the last year or so, then I have in 20+ years of doing stuff "on my own", great bunch of guys, good luck with the boat!

Michael

Michael55123

Michael,

Great info. The boat has never seen salt water, and was kept inside for most of it's life.

I'm afraid my issue might be about the same. I'm hoping it's nothing too major. I don't mind doing any work myself, where do I go about sourcing, or finding these kind of parts? I'm going to check out the boat in the water this time, and not run the bilge right away, and leave the plug in to see if I can figure out the issue.

I think the actuator is toast. I guess it's not like a car, where I go buy a actuator for a 24 outlaw, I just need one that's close to the same extended and what not dimensions.

Thanks for the help.

n20michael

If its the gimble ring seal, the problem wont be as bad when the boat is underway, at "rest" the transom sits under the water, underway its out of the water and USUALLY wont leak. climb inside when the boat is in the water and tied to the dock and look near the top of the inner transom plate and you will usually see a "trickle" of water at the top of the inner transom plate

Here is a link to JR Marine, they sell the "good" swivel pin and other stuff you might wanna have a look at.

http://www.jrmarine.com/Default.htm

Your actuator is probably 18" closed and 30" open [approx] you can just look on Ebay for a 12 volt actuator that has these dimensions, or, you can order one from Livorsi, Eddie Marine, or most any marine aftermarket company.

Glad to help! feel free to PM if I can help ya out, or just post "here", lots of good folks here.

Michael

A.O. Razor

As others have said, you'll need accurate numbers to dial her in. Fastest prop will surely be a Mirage+. If you can swing it, get a labbed one. The M+ is generally a good prop for the 24OL. I've always thought that the B1 was a huge prop for the mid sized ol's. I like the Revolution4 better. More bowlift and smaller diameter.
Do you know at what rpms your motor makes the hp? Also, the gear ratio in the drive is needed.