Hey budman, do you have a picture of the hitch pin setup you have incase of actuator failure? i need to do that to mine but i'm having trouble in my mind seeing how you would run the cable through the vent, wouldnt it just come back out of the vent every time you open the hatch? also where did you find a hitch pin that size, my bolt is almost 1/2 dia if i remember right?

thanks!

I'll try to remember to take a pic of it tonight. The hitch pin is actually smaller diameter than the bolt that was in there, but it doesn't really matter - the weight of the hatch does a pretty good job holding it down just by itself, so all the pin does is locate the ram in the bracket. I ran the wire out to the opening where the vent is. I think I ran it to the forward port side vent. I may have removed the plastic tray behind it. I keep a philips head screwdriver up in the cuddy to remove the vent bezel if I need to pull the cable out. Yes, a bit of a pain, but hopefully it is rare that you would have to do this. I think I have had to do it twice in the 12 years that I have had my boat.

Try Tractor Supply for the hitch pin.

Sweet info guys! keep all the DIY ideas you have came up with coming. This can be a new tricks for force hull thread :)

The pins you can get at Overtons.com. In fact I need to order a couple more for my bimini top to replace the screws. Search Bimini pin.

My self well lets say it is nice to work in a machine shop ;) I had my manual guy wip out a bushing/spacer for my Michigan 25p prop so I can continue to test. My 25p had the same space at the base of the prop as the mirage I used last weekend. All of this confirm if it makes a difference or not.

Before
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/IMAG0655.jpg

Spacer/ shim/washer thing, lol
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/IMAG0673.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/IMAG0674.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/IMAG0672.jpg

After
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/IMAG0683.jpg

I will see how it preforms tomorrow, today were taking the Donzi out to play around.

O ya here are a couple more pics of my DVX. I part it where my old swimming pool used to be since I havent removed the sand yet to plant more grass.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/IMAG0676.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...IMAG0678-1.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/IMAG0679.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/IMAG0680.jpg

Also here are a couple videos we shot from the DVX last wknd.

http://youtu.be/eCA9Zbtt1kA

http://youtu.be/xBey8yyR2A0

Well guys that gap was the cause of the prop blow out, and way excessive prop slip! 55 mph at 4000 rpms now with the new spacer. AlsoI think that will conclude this years prop testing till I get the heads re-done.

Any one know the length or where to find the lift support for our bow window? Dose it lift it to just 90 degrees of is it adjustable ? Mine has been missing since I bought the boat and would like to have it.

Well, I guess it's safe to say that your motor can't turn a 25" prop! :P Bet you had a killer cruising speed with it, though. :)

Yep i guess it cant!! The heads will get redone this winter.

Also any one else looking for the OEM toggle switches in our boat I found a place that has them!!!!!!!! www.greatlakesskipper.com. There prices seem pretty good. They must buy all the left overs form places. Pretty much everything is new without box...

I just placed a order for a 3 way On/Off/On Momentary Illuminated for the hatch, current one is some cheap plastic 3 way that isn't momentary and I have accidentally left it on or hit it :( along with a momentary on-off fot he bilge pump. The OEM one is manual is down and auto is up. The switch is a normal on off that isn't momentary and I can see my self hitting it draining the battery.

Grainger also has the OEM switchs, search "CARLING
Lighted Toggle" on there website. i got a few from them for mine and since grainger was right across the street from were i work so i didnt have to pay any shipping on them. skippers price is good but shipping adds up if toggles is all you need for your order!

I assume by bow window, you mean the hatch. I replaced mine with one from west marine and it has a screw that tightens down to hold at any angle from closed to straight up. They have several choices, measure to get the right one. I was able to use old mounting holes and now don't need to stick a throwable cushion in between to get some air the cabin.

I would go to a farming store, like a tractor supply if you have them in your area. They will have hitch pins of many lengths and diameters both far smaller and far bigger than you need. Put a tiny hole with a cable under the seat to pull the clip pin out and put the other in vent as previously suggested and you are set. Also you need to put the pin in the lower so it doesn't move when you open sun pad normally.
I reviewed the pictures and saw the bow windows mentioned and I have no clue. Mine are without the means to open but if you have a machine shop available, that sounds like a "goverment project" for sure.