Originally Posted by Full Force (Post 3797547)

I am pretty sure that one don't have shorepower.... if memory serves me right....

I was gonna say do a relay but for a simple fix I ran bigger wire and a better switch... the relay will for sure take the load off the switch..

Originally Posted by Budman II (Post 3797527)

Your fridge is AC/DC - should be an AC plug hanging down near the helm. Plug that in and it should kick on. As for the DC side, you may find it wired into one of the ACC switches on the side panel, or it may be straight wired to the battery. There is a switch / temp control inside the fridge.

Originally Posted by Budman II (Post 3797527)

Forget changing the wire to the switch. The switch itself is probably fried from too much amperage running thru it. To to Radio Shack and buy a DPDT momentary switch like the one in there, and then do a search on the "Technical" forum for wiring in Bosch relays to raise and lower your hatch. This takes the load off the switch and supplies much more current directly to the hatch motor. Hatch will raise and lower much faster, and no more burnt switches.

Your fridge is AC/DC - should be an AC plug hanging down near the helm. Plug that in and it should kick on. As for the DC side, you may find it wired into one of the ACC switches on the side panel, or it may be straight wired to the battery. There is a switch / temp control inside the fridge.

Lose that teak swim platform and find a fiberglass platform off of a 90's era Baja Bandit or Outlaw. These are white fiberglass, bolt right on in place of the teak, and are much nicer. No more teak oil or varnish, and modernizes the looks of the boat considerably. I did this on mine, and it was one of the best mods that I did. Check local marinas and boat yards for a platform, or post a wanted ad in Swap Shop.

Originally Posted by 88Force265 (Post 3797792)

Thanks ill look into it. i know the orig owner had the fridge i believe wired straight to the batter with an inline fuse he'd put in and out when he wanted it on whats the best way to run that to one of those acc switches since i have nothing attached to either.

Originally Posted by Budman II (Post 3797527)

Forget changing the wire to the switch. The switch itself is probably fried from too much amperage running thru it. To to Radio Shack and buy a DPDT momentary switch like the one in there, and then do a search on the "Technical" forum for wiring in Bosch relays to raise and lower your hatch. This takes the load off the switch and supplies much more current directly to the hatch motor. Hatch will raise and lower much faster, and no more burnt switches.

Your fridge is AC/DC - should be an AC plug hanging down near the helm. Plug that in and it should kick on. As for the DC side, you may find it wired into one of the ACC switches on the side panel, or it may be straight wired to the battery. There is a switch / temp control inside the fridge.

Lose that teak swim platform and find a fiberglass platform off of a 90's era Baja Bandit or Outlaw. These are white fiberglass, bolt right on in place of the teak, and are much nicer. No more teak oil or varnish, and modernizes the looks of the boat considerably. I did this on mine, and it was one of the best mods that I did. Check local marinas and boat yards for a platform, or post a wanted ad in Swap Shop.