Gain 1.5mph for $50.00
#11
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Originally posted by BobbyB
Hey 29outlaw the boat looked great yesterday when you pasted by me.
Hey 29outlaw the boat looked great yesterday when you pasted by me.
Don't make it sound like I'm really hot $hit blowing by you or something. You were easy to pass since you were standing still.
#13
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Originally posted by MAKDADDY
One other point to mention is the weight of the oil
I have run Mobile 1 for 18 years , it has never let me down. In the truck or the boat.
There is something to be said about thinner oils cooling the engine better.
This is due to the oil moving through the engine to the cooler quicker.
Just a thought. Oh by the way in some studies,they recommend that you should run 10W 30W Mobile 1 in race applications. Not the heavier 50W for that reason.
I wonder.
Greg
One other point to mention is the weight of the oil
I have run Mobile 1 for 18 years , it has never let me down. In the truck or the boat.
There is something to be said about thinner oils cooling the engine better.
This is due to the oil moving through the engine to the cooler quicker.
Just a thought. Oh by the way in some studies,they recommend that you should run 10W 30W Mobile 1 in race applications. Not the heavier 50W for that reason.
I wonder.
Greg
Oh well....enough about that.
Luv....I ran 70.4 gps with 5 people and 1/4 tank on Saturday, but could only get 68.3 with less gas on Sunday. It was more humid. I think I picked up a little, less than 1 mph and 100rpm by going to full synth Moblie 1 15w50, but I will not know until I get in some light air by myself or with just 1 other person and a light load of fuel. Those decals will probably come off after the next race......
#14
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Remember Allan, it is all about the stickers. Forget what everyone else said, it is all about the stickers.
Another theory... Drive shower...I bet if any loss is made, I doubt it is from the pickup. If any I am betting it is from the drive oil being colder. Basic Physics (not that Ive taken that or plan to) says that colder objects are denser. Forget it, I lost my train of thought, but dont forget it is all about the stickers.
Another theory... Drive shower...I bet if any loss is made, I doubt it is from the pickup. If any I am betting it is from the drive oil being colder. Basic Physics (not that Ive taken that or plan to) says that colder objects are denser. Forget it, I lost my train of thought, but dont forget it is all about the stickers.
#16
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Is there any special tricks to converting from Dino to Syn.? Do you have to get every last drop of Dino out or can there be a little blend. I change my oil by sucking it out the dipstick tube like most people. But this doesn't get every last drop. Will it be okay?
Brian
Brian
#17
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Just to clarify, thats $75 for 1.5 mph: I've got twins you know.
Bruce...
By the way, I used to run Mobil 1 in my 24 Outlaw and never saw an increase in RPM. Don't know if that's because the potential wasn't there (7.4L), or the Mobil 1 isn't a complete synthetic. Hmmm...
Bruce...
By the way, I used to run Mobil 1 in my 24 Outlaw and never saw an increase in RPM. Don't know if that's because the potential wasn't there (7.4L), or the Mobil 1 isn't a complete synthetic. Hmmm...
#18
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I tried it long ago, and was told by my mechanic to run HD straight 30 or 40, There were some cons in the TEAGUE on TECH column in powerboat about synthetic but I don't remember which one , as a matter of fact it could have been Hot boat or F & P boating, they all run together, I have 4 or 5 subscriptions
Just my .02
Just my .02
#19
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same thing I was told.....I like to run synthetic....or synthetic blend in my vehicles and thought it would be a good idea to try it in the boat. I was just about to when i read all the threads and took advice from people saying run straight 40.
#20
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See what I mean
Mobile 1 15w50 is a full syth. I do not like to use straight wieght oils becuase they thin and thicken worse than multi vis do under heat exchanging.
As for switching to full syth from conventional, I am in the same situation with the pump out oil drain system. I drained it then ran an extra qt of new syn thru to help get rid of some of the old stuff (I probably should have pulled the valve covers to make sure i dispersed it enough, but I did not do that). Not 100% full proof. I now have about 5 hours on it and I am going to change the oil again. THe oils will not blend very well, but I think this shold get alot of the old stuff out. BTW, you will use up some oil when you first switch to full syn. Keep an eye on it, it will use a qt pretty quick, but that will eventually go away after a few hours of use.
If you are going to use str 30 or 40 wieght, be sure to let the oil temp rise before putting the motor under much load (should do this anyway...say 165* oil temp or so), and if it gets really hot (maybe over 250* oil temp) be careful...it will thin out faster than multi vis. They do not lubricate as well outside of optimal operating temps as the multi vis do, but lots of guys run straight and have had success with it and really like it. It is a personal preference thing. The most important thing, to be honest....just make sure it is full and change it every 25 hours or less (filter included). That is more important for sure. Ofcourse, this coming from a guy who just switched over to $50 oil changes....hahahahaha
One more thing, if you go to syn, be sure to use a syn media filter. PF35L is a good one and can be bought at Autozone for about $10. Be sure it says "L"!! That is the syn media filter.
Have fun, A4
Mobile 1 15w50 is a full syth. I do not like to use straight wieght oils becuase they thin and thicken worse than multi vis do under heat exchanging.
As for switching to full syth from conventional, I am in the same situation with the pump out oil drain system. I drained it then ran an extra qt of new syn thru to help get rid of some of the old stuff (I probably should have pulled the valve covers to make sure i dispersed it enough, but I did not do that). Not 100% full proof. I now have about 5 hours on it and I am going to change the oil again. THe oils will not blend very well, but I think this shold get alot of the old stuff out. BTW, you will use up some oil when you first switch to full syn. Keep an eye on it, it will use a qt pretty quick, but that will eventually go away after a few hours of use.
If you are going to use str 30 or 40 wieght, be sure to let the oil temp rise before putting the motor under much load (should do this anyway...say 165* oil temp or so), and if it gets really hot (maybe over 250* oil temp) be careful...it will thin out faster than multi vis. They do not lubricate as well outside of optimal operating temps as the multi vis do, but lots of guys run straight and have had success with it and really like it. It is a personal preference thing. The most important thing, to be honest....just make sure it is full and change it every 25 hours or less (filter included). That is more important for sure. Ofcourse, this coming from a guy who just switched over to $50 oil changes....hahahahaha
One more thing, if you go to syn, be sure to use a syn media filter. PF35L is a good one and can be bought at Autozone for about $10. Be sure it says "L"!! That is the syn media filter.
Have fun, A4