Gain 1.5mph for $50.00
 

For those of you who are not members of TBM:

There is a thread over there in which Bruce Dannecker claimed a speed increase of 1.5mph in his Baja 342 with twin 502’s by switching from regular oil to Castrol Syntec (full synthetic). Since I’m willing to try anything to go faster (except bottom coating), I put Syntec in to see what happened. I have a 29 Outlaw with twin 496HO. Below is what I posted on TBM:

I was off work today and was able to get the boat out on the water. I would have to say that I gained at least 1.5mph with the Castrol Syntec.

Previous best GPS was 78.3mph on a day in the mid 70’s with a nice chop to keep me up in the air.

Today was 90 degrees and the water was dead-flat. Despite that, I recorded 78.6mph and that was only on 1 run that lasted about 15 seconds. Typically on a 90 degree day my GPS speeds are 77.0mph +/-.

Before – on a good day the speedo would bounce between 78-80mph.
Today - speedo was bouncing between 80-82mph.

My only compaint – why did I wait this long to try it. Maybe some synthetic in the drives and I’ll get even more.

wow, looks like I might have to switch. I had always read in previous threads (i think) to just run regular oil. But heck if you can gain 1.5 mph I'm all for it.

Wow! 1.5 mph?? I can get to the bar faster and start drinking earlier!

LMAO:D :D

Hey 29, did your RPM'S get higher? I have a labbed prop pushing me very close to rev limiter and I'm afraid if I gain another 100 RPM, then I'm going to be bouncing off and on, on the rev limitier.

I've heard the same thing too. Have not done it. What synthetic oil did you use? The way I understand it is this-synthetic oil allows the motor and outdrive to work easier if you use sythetics. I would try Redline Shockwave? for you outdrive. There are a lot of people that use this for their outdrive and get great results with it.

I gained about 200rpm. I don't believe I am on the limiter. Engines run 5100 left 5200 right.

Without changing props you cannot gain speed without gaining RPM.

Funny how we overlook the simple stuff:D :D

I have heard from alot of people I respect that you CAN pickup a little bit by going to a full synthetic oil. I have done it in my boat and...to be honest, have not put it to the test yet. I just changed oil a few days ago.

Gonna give it a whirl today. Every little bit helps, but don't expect this to take place....it CAN, but each application is different....they allhave a mind of their own..:D :D

I need synthetic....All in my quest to break 50. Will be 3.5mph away if I gain that 1.5 ;)

Hey 29outlaw the boat looked great yesterday when you pasted by me.

A4, we were hoping for you to slow down a few mph so that we can read all those sweeeeeeeeet graphics on your boat;) Well, did you pick up any mph? Going to make it harder for us to see ya now come October @ Alum Creek.

Hey Bobby,

Don't make it sound like I'm really hot $hit blowing by you or something. You were easy to pass since you were standing still.:p

All i can say is young kids that dont like going fast.:)

Yeah, everyone has a different opinion (imagine that!!) on this topic. Some guys say go witht he lighter milti vis wieght becuase it won't use up the extra HP that heaver multi vis will. I like using 20W50 though, becuase in Poker runs or especially race conditions, you can't just pull off and let the oil temps come back down. With the heavier multi viscosity oil it should help not thinning out as much at higher oil temps for significant periods of time. I try not to go with "what's hot", but try to stick with what has worked for others I trust. Just my little theory, not that I always stick to it...hahaha

Oh well....enough about that.

Luv....I ran 70.4 gps with 5 people and 1/4 tank on Saturday, but could only get 68.3 with less gas on Sunday. It was more humid. I think I picked up a little, less than 1 mph and 100rpm by going to full synth Moblie 1 15w50, but I will not know until I get in some light air by myself or with just 1 other person and a light load of fuel. Those decals will probably come off after the next race......

;)

Remember Allan, it is all about the stickers. Forget what everyone else said, it is all about the stickers.

Another theory... Drive shower...I bet if any loss is made, I doubt it is from the pickup. If any I am betting it is from the drive oil being colder. Basic Physics (not that Ive taken that or plan to) says that colder objects are denser. Forget it, I lost my train of thought, but dont forget it is all about the stickers.

hmmmm...i guess maybe I should switch. I was just told by several to run Vavoline 40 weight. What other kind are you guys running.....or are you running the same?

Is there any special tricks to converting from Dino to Syn.? Do you have to get every last drop of Dino out or can there be a little blend. I change my oil by sucking it out the dipstick tube like most people. But this doesn't get every last drop. Will it be okay?

Brian

Just to clarify, thats $75 for 1.5 mph: I've got twins you know.

Bruce...:D

By the way, I used to run Mobil 1 in my 24 Outlaw and never saw an increase in RPM. Don't know if that's because the potential wasn't there (7.4L), or the Mobil 1 isn't a complete synthetic. Hmmm...

I tried it long ago, and was told by my mechanic to run HD straight 30 or 40, There were some cons in the TEAGUE on TECH column in powerboat about synthetic but I don't remember which one , as a matter of fact it could have been Hot boat or F & P boating, they all run together, I have 4 or 5 subscriptions

Just my .02

same thing I was told.....I like to run synthetic....or synthetic blend in my vehicles and thought it would be a good idea to try it in the boat. I was just about to when i read all the threads and took advice from people saying run straight 40.

See what I mean:D :D :D

Mobile 1 15w50 is a full syth. I do not like to use straight wieght oils becuase they thin and thicken worse than multi vis do under heat exchanging.

As for switching to full syth from conventional, I am in the same situation with the pump out oil drain system. I drained it then ran an extra qt of new syn thru to help get rid of some of the old stuff (I probably should have pulled the valve covers to make sure i dispersed it enough, but I did not do that). Not 100% full proof. I now have about 5 hours on it and I am going to change the oil again. THe oils will not blend very well, but I think this shold get alot of the old stuff out. BTW, you will use up some oil when you first switch to full syn. Keep an eye on it, it will use a qt pretty quick, but that will eventually go away after a few hours of use.

If you are going to use str 30 or 40 wieght, be sure to let the oil temp rise before putting the motor under much load (should do this anyway...say 165* oil temp or so), and if it gets really hot (maybe over 250* oil temp) be careful...it will thin out faster than multi vis. They do not lubricate as well outside of optimal operating temps as the multi vis do, but lots of guys run straight and have had success with it and really like it. It is a personal preference thing. The most important thing, to be honest....just make sure it is full and change it every 25 hours or less (filter included). That is more important for sure. Ofcourse, this coming from a guy who just switched over to $50 oil changes....hahahahaha

One more thing, if you go to syn, be sure to use a syn media filter. PF35L is a good one and can be bought at Autozone for about $10. Be sure it says "L"!! That is the syn media filter.

Have fun, A4:)

ok i went back and did some homework reading old threads. I'll be switching to synthetic next oil change. I currently run Vavoline straight 40, will switch to either Mobile 15-50 or whatever you guys suggest.

I switched from valvoline 40w
to Amsoil 15w40 marine/diesel,
gained 100 rpm.

........ Oh, but it cost more than
$ 50 bucks though :D

jt

I have to disagree.

Normal oil change - 17 quarts x $1.50ea = $25.50
Castol Syntec oil change - 17 quarts x $4.00 = $68.00

$68.00 minus $25.50 = $42.50

Albeit the additional $42.50 occurs each oil change but I still think it's a bargain.

Ooopss...

That PF35L is an AC Delco filter....sorry, I just listed the model number, not the brand.

97Boss. I am no expert, I jsut go by what I have seen and experienced and been told by people I trust. I ask that you perform your own research. I have heard good things about the Castrol Syn also. I think it is 15w50 as well.

Again, just be sure to keep it fresh and filled, no matter what you use....

Happy Boating....

A4:)

another gain for 20.00
 

you can also runsynin your outdrive and will help increase some speed. mobile 1 makes a great outdrive oil. dont know the speed increase but you can definately tell the difference by turning the prop out of water

billsbaja,
Do you have any other "specifics" on that gear oil?

Bruce

new synthetic
 

the weight is 75w-90 mobil 1 can be found at advanced auto or auto zone. sorry no speed specs i did a header change at the same time and got a 4 mph increase you can tell a difference after the gear lube is changed

Mine shifts easier after going to Redline Shockproof Synthetic gear lube. I still don't have an accurate reading on speed increase since switching to syn motor oil, been spending all my free time on different setups and ballast....etc.

I'll know shortly, seems like it has picked up, wants to trun more revs...

MOST IMPORTANTLY......KEEP THE FLIUDS CHANGED!!!!!!

No matter what lube/oil you run, just keep it fresh and full. That is the best protection you can give. Keep it changed!!!!!!!!

A4:)

Thanks guys. Any idea how much each outdrive and reservoir will hold?

Bruce...

I'll go ahead and be another guinea pig tester. My drives are draining right now and will be filled with Mobil 1 75w-90. If the weather holds I will post results Saturday night.

OT.....about 2 1/4 quarts each drive and resevior to be safe, but fill from bottom drain hole. Resevior holds about 1/2 qt.

29, may want to pump a quart of the new stuff thru the drive from TOP to BOTTOM (opposite of standard fill procedure) to flush it out. I know it is pricey, but will help flushout the old stuff when switching types of fluids.

Good luck

filter compatability
 

Can you use full syn with PF1218 filter? Does the PF35L have an anti-drainback valve?

dave, I'm not sure about that. I've always been told to use filters with synthetic media for synthetic oil. THe 1218 is the standard BBC filter with multi vis conventional oil. My guess is it would work, but not as effectively as you would like it to.

Just a thought, my sugg is spend the extra $ and get the 35L

Might want to ask around though. PM Budah or find him in the tech section.

Thanks

A4;)

No boating this weekend - stay tuned.

Well after reading all these post I had to do it aswell. Put Quaker State in 75w-90 in the drives (couldn't get Mobile 1) and Mobile 1 15w-50 in the engines. I'm using the stock oil filter from Mercury, the PF35L doesn't have a check valve and with it being upside down I decided to pass on it. Let you guys know how it turns out.

What kind of boat?

2000 29 Outlaw twin 502's with Imco headers, RPM kits, 1:70 roller rockers, ported intake manifold by CP Performance and nose cones by Bob's machine shop. This thing is really loud now. Trying a set of 30 pitch bravo 1's as well.

Cool. Keep us posted.

I switched to Redline Synthetic 10w40 in the motor and Redline Heavy Shockproof in the outdrive. I did not see a gain in RPMs at all, although it was 102 degrees out that day. The motor oil was $9.50 a quart and the outdrive oil was $10.50 a quart. I used the mercury tall filter on it. Most expensive oil change I ever had.

What do you think about running the 10W40 in the engine? It is full synthetic oil. Mercury recomends 20W40 Mercury oil for my motor.

Alot of it has to do with who you ask as far as oil wieght. Many, many diff opinions on this stuff.

If I were in Texas a running in heat for 6 months of the year, I would definitely go with a 20W50. That is just my opinion though. I use Mobile 1 20w50 full synthetic.

Just keep it changed!!

A4:)