that be real nice of you... I have had no time running to the yard to the yard 3 times a night to look in the bilge or check my lines,,, then to top it off I took a spill today, lol stepping in to the b35 and when all the way into the bilge. got very, very lucky....... not hurt but feel it... I will get on that site and post on my own.. thanks for making it happen for now.

Thanks
Larry

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_HEgDepHDnCg/S4...g%2020%204.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_HEgDepHDnCg/S4...g%2020%205.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_HEgDepHDnCg/S4...g%2020%206.JPG

well tomarrow I start removing the plywood in the transom on the floor and some of the bad foam core spots in the seat.... seems as if the deck is hallow maybe rotted core... I'll have to drill a shallow hole to see to see if its rotted, if it is I have to cut it out also,,, I got the epoxy and core for the job when it was raining... so it will be fun tomarrow...

well there is foam core in the deck, and rear seat not the densest stuff at all. glassing the inside of the deck will do nothing at all to reinforce the deck, if the foam is crushed you'd end up with a soft spot... I'd have to peel the inside glass the old foam put down more glass & heavy foam core, but there are no soft spots yet and the core is very, very light weight.... I also stripped the ply wood off the cabin floor and transom. and peeled the inside layer of glass 6" around the crude hole that was cut in the seat and stripped the foam, that's how I got a good look at the foam..

well finished up the cockpit deck to day,, after the aria was free of plywood and cut with 40 I rolled 24oz of west system on the deck put down a layer of biaxial kevlar about 3 yards then rolled about 24oz more of epoxy to wet out the cloth.. Then I put down layer of brown divinycell foam and combed 24oz more of west so it ran in to the cracks.. I finished up with two pieces of biaxial kevlar both a little more then 3 yards to over lap the core and bond to the sides of the cockpit... I spent the rest of the day grinding the transom to raw fiber glass inside and out and grinding around all the hole to be filled... I also cut out the damaged stringer....

hope fully I can bang out the transom and stringers tomarrow..

I am going to stick with marine ply in the stringers. I like plywood wood for stringers..... I am not gutting the stringers just removing the rear from the last bulkhead to the transom..
I am going to use 20 pound density foam 3/4 inch thick double stacked on the transom.. so it will be a piece of kevar on the out side of the transom , then on the inside kevlar . foam . kevlar . foam then layers of kevlar till the transom is 2" thick....





has any one had a soft spot in there bow deck?

the factory foam in my boat seems to be 5 pound density, kinda light I'd think but if no one has had a soft spot in 30 years I don't think I have to give it any thought....

wow that came out nice......... well it is a lip ship boat... I have seen shots of the boat both ways but had no idea they were the same.... so ur running a s/b I have heard the blackhawk was the way to go but lots of guys say the boat runs better with a big block...

what kinda speed are you seeing?

so you running a supercharged 350 or 383? that boat is nice....... thank you for the engine room shots they are telling... my boat has no bulk head behind the rear seat may be it was added after 72?

I just saw you posts... that boat is killer glad to see what a old cig can look like done so well,,,

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

the first shot shows the floor being striped water thro out, then I sanded it to raw glass and photo 2 shows the wet kevlar and foam core and photo 3 in the core being covered... it will take about two days to fully cure in the 40/70 weather were having..

none of the early 20's had a full bulkhead behind the seat, it needs to be added, mine will have one as well. under the rear seat will house 2 optimas and 4 pumps 2 for tabs, one for drive and 1 for dana hydraulic hatch. it's a tight fit, but if you think it out you can really fit everything in and do it functionally.