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you can buff scratches if thats all thats wrong with it.
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how deep are they?? you can start by taking a DA to it with about 400 and work your way up. Its not like paint so you cant sand through anything, just keep going until the scratches are gone, then start going with finer paper to about 1200. Then buff. Whats the worst that can happen, you buy a new one like you were going to do anyways?????
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Originally Posted by 302Sport
(Post 3639211)
how deep are they?? you can start by taking a DA to it with about 400 and work your way up. Its not like paint so you cant sand through anything, just keep going until the scratches are gone, then start going with finer paper to about 1200. Then buff. Whats the worst that can happen, you buy a new one like you were going to do anyways?????
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I have used the green turtle paste wax to remove scratches from lexan and plexi. I was told it is what the military used to clean the windsheild on helicopters. I have had great success with it .
Rick G. |
Originally Posted by tanner
(Post 3639572)
Compounds only ...... NO SANDPAPER !!!
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Originally Posted by 302Sport
(Post 3640502)
Ive sanded plenty of Lexan and it comes out fine. What's he have to loose if he's buying a new one anyways???
Well I am not quite sure about that ... I am guessing 400 on Lexan and ending with 1200 gets you nothing but a scratched piece, if anytning you at least have to end up with 3200 or higher before going to compounds, but you do not get a good finish ending with 1200 ... sorry :angry-smiley-038: |
Originally Posted by tanner
(Post 3640866)
Well I am not quite sure about that ... I am guessing 400 on Lexan and ending with 1200 gets you nothing but a scratched piece, if anytning you at least have to end up with 3200 or higher before going to compounds, but you do not get a good finish ending with 1200 ... sorry :angry-smiley-038:
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Can a heat gun be used on Lexan? I can't say I know the exact differences between various plastics but I've used a heat gun or a propane torch to take minor scratches out of plexi in the past. Moving quick, just wafting the heat across the plastic until it clears up.
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Originally Posted by tanner
(Post 3640866)
Well I am not quite sure about that ... I am guessing 400 on Lexan and ending with 1200 gets you nothing but a scratched piece, if anytning you at least have to end up with 3200 or higher before going to compounds, but you do not get a good finish ending with 1200 ... sorry :angry-smiley-038:
Heavy cut compound starts at about 1000 if you get the really gritty stuff. So if you don't feel like starting with that, then yeah keep going with the paper. Hell, you could start with 36 if the scratches are that deep, and just work your way up. The sand scratches will always come out if you work up with the paper, 400, 600, 800, etc...how's it any different than sanding bondo??? We've started plenty of times with 36 on a polished piece of aluminum, and finished with a mirror product. |
Originally Posted by offshoredrillin
(Post 3640873)
I agree with you Todd, the thing to remember about people have different "definitions" of perfect and fine. You and i see it every day in body shops, what some people consider perfect wouldn't pass grade in another shop. Even trizac would prob leave miniscule scratches.
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