Top Gun Windshield replacement Lexan?
 

Who sells them? Lip-Ship? Cigarette?

Mine has some scratches in it. Does anyone sell just the Lexan piece or do I have to take the existing one somewhere and have it fabricated?

Thanks in advance,
Craig

yea, i have a place in beltsville that makes them, they can do them clear or tinted.

Dang, that was fast Rob!! :D

Do they already have a template or would I need to take mine there?

would be best to take yours, they will drill all the holes and chamfer the edges of them. What i have found is all the holes on all of them are in different spots. Also mine was different than one for a topgun, never would have thought it but go figure. I still have my old one as a template too, we can line them up and see how close they are. Tha add is in my rolodex at the shop, ill get it to you in the morning. :D

Thanks...

oh and if you need the lil plastic washers, phil sells them, i couldn't find them anywhere around here.

The Ace hardware store in Edgewater on 214 has them. They are 20 cents each instead of 3 bucks!. ;) :D

I wouldn't let them drill holes unless it's exact to the one you take off. I got one with holes already in it and had to have another made because nothing would line up. Also paint the back of it so it hides the bracket from the front.

Man that first one looks SWEET!!

Well cept for the mud. Had to tow home in rain from Vincents.

But they are not "Lip-Ship" edition washers :party-smiley-004:

you can buff scratches if thats all thats wrong with it.

how deep are they?? you can start by taking a DA to it with about 400 and work your way up. Its not like paint so you cant sand through anything, just keep going until the scratches are gone, then start going with finer paper to about 1200. Then buff. Whats the worst that can happen, you buy a new one like you were going to do anyways?????

Compounds only ...... NO SANDPAPER !!!

I have used the green turtle paste wax to remove scratches from lexan and plexi. I was told it is what the military used to clean the windsheild on helicopters. I have had great success with it .
Rick G.

Ive sanded plenty of Lexan and it comes out fine. What's he have to loose if he's buying a new one anyways???

Well I am not quite sure about that ... I am guessing 400 on Lexan and ending with 1200 gets you nothing but a scratched piece, if anytning you at least have to end up with 3200 or higher before going to compounds, but you do not get a good finish ending with 1200 ... sorry :angry-smiley-038:

I agree with you Todd, the thing to remember about people have different "definitions" of perfect and fine. You and i see it every day in body shops, what some people consider perfect wouldn't pass grade in another shop. Even trizac would prob leave miniscule scratches.

Can a heat gun be used on Lexan? I can't say I know the exact differences between various plastics but I've used a heat gun or a propane torch to take minor scratches out of plexi in the past. Moving quick, just wafting the heat across the plastic until it clears up.

Heavy cut compound starts at about 1000 if you get the really gritty stuff. So if you don't feel like starting with that, then yeah keep going with the paper. Hell, you could start with 36 if the scratches are that deep, and just work your way up. The sand scratches will always come out if you work up with the paper, 400, 600, 800, etc...how's it any different than sanding bondo??? We've started plenty of times with 36 on a polished piece of aluminum, and finished with a mirror product.

If it comes out good enough for a window on a $50M Global Express, I think it would be fine for a windscreen on a $100k boat...... :lolhit:

Hey OldSchool, did you end up buying a new windscreen? I'd be curious how much it cost. Mine broke over the winter right where one of the screws attaches it. Straight break perfectly vertical, I guess it was stressed at that attachment point for some reason.

mine broke as well, just had one made for 250 bucks in Beltsville.

SoFlo price.....$375 :D

The military stuff is not turtlewax... I don't know what it is but I wish I had more. A friend of mine back in San Diego painted F-14's and F-18's at NAS North Island. He gave me a pint of military plastic polish that they use on the canopys. Stuff was like water but did miracles. very little rubbing at all and it took out all kinds of scratches. Those fancy headlight refresh kits ,,, this stuff would take the worst headlight and make it look like new with no more rubbing than you would do waxing a car.

Just had one made for mine $120 up her in Harrisburg Pa. they did polish and chamfer the edges, and angle the back bottom edge, it is 3/8 thick, I did not have them drill the holes I wasn't finish painting the frame,, when I gave them the pattern for the for the windscreen, or they would have drilled the holes also....

That's a good price. Tinted? Also, is it difficult to drill without cracking it?

Thanks to all who replied. I guess I'm a little surprised there is such a difference in prices.

they would of drilled it for me, but I didn't have the holes drilled in the frame I made yet, so I didn't have them in the pattern I gave to them, when your drill plastic just have to drill it slow and keep it cool....if you want there number let me know, I'm sure they have tinted or can get it, hell they even made and machined and drilled the plastic step plates/cupholders on the sides of the seats, and the step plates on the top of the gunwale, they charged me about $250 to make all 6 of those pieces...Just to let everyone know, I'm not a salesman for these guys, just in the process of rebuilding my boat, and when good price come along, (and that's far and few between in this hobby) I figure I should let my Cig brothers know....Joe

Make sure when you go to drill it to raise it up a bit so it's not resting directly on the boat a buisness card works great. If it sits on the boat it will squeak and drive you carzy.

Carter are you talking about the frame that holds the windscreen??

No mount the frame to the boat and when you go to drill the holes for the windscreen just make sure it's not touching the boat.I usally run masking tape along where it's going to go so you don't scratch anything and then tape a few business cards along the way to keep the spacing even clamp the screen to the bracket drill holes. I'm not trying to complicate things for you just trying to give you a heads up of what to expect. I've done several and I've also had to fix a few because they squeaked.

Got it....thanks for the info....

Hey, can you post the contact info?

I have contacted Doug at WindVest, they are hands down the best motorcycle wind screen builders in the business. anyway, i contacted him and he is going to build a mold for the 38' TG. if anyone else is interested, hit me up and we can try to get a group order going.

www.windvest.com

Do you have any prices, does it include brackets or just the plastic wind screen?

I am interested, assuming we can get a good price.

I'm interested too

I am interested as well.

I'd be interested if I could find a bracket for one!

Hey man, I am pretty sure I have an extra one if you can find the bracket. Call Lip Ship