There never is a notch issue on a normal side by side application. The notch ends where the drive center line is (34.5" to 35") so that is not an issue. Now on a stagger, which no 38' Cigarette Top Guns are rigged as, the notch does not have to be completely filled in. Depending upon the notch, not every boat has the exact same size one, the area where the standoff boxes mount only requires a 2-3" thick filler panel so that the drives can be mounted at the correct height and the panel is only as wide as the standoff box itself.

That is rope to hold my bunks. Every single board is tied with rope. I need to redo my boards with recessed lag bolts. Been too busy with everything else to worry about that. It works for now.

Herring 18 Inch diamater, 28 Pitch, 5 blades. 502 Dart Block (509 cubic inch), 250 b&m blowers that produce 605hp at 5500 rpm engines. I did not change power during the conversion. I am a little over pitched. I am only getting 5200rpm in smooth water in a river. Don't know top speed yet. I am hoping when I get into perfect choppy conditions, that my RPM will go up. I wish I had some 900+hp engines.

It will go up! Mine only hits 52-5300 on a flat lake.... When it's in chop they go 6000+

How is it getting on plane?

Don't forget the 5 original 90mph boats!

At 1st I had some 15.5 - 16.0 inch diameter 4 blade 30 pitch. Very hard to get on plane with those props. They are for sale if anyone wants them. Getting on plane with the 18 inch Diameter 5 blades is not a problem. You put the drives and tabs down. Hit 3500rpm, after about 6 seconds the nose is down, trim up the drives 1st. Then trim up your tabs second. That seems to work best for me. At 1st, I was trimming up the drives and tabs at the same time. You can do it that way, but I never could be consistant on getting on plane fast. It's all timing. I prefer not to pull back on the throttle from 3500rpm until my drives are level and tabs are up. It takes a little practice.

Looks great! Congrats, I'm glad to see you finally pulled the trigger on this conversion!

How are your numbers so far (on flat river water) compared to pre-conversion?

The notch did not have to be filled in, but we did lower the engines, which in turn made the engines move forward because the transom is not strait. I had this done to meet Arneson drop box and bottom of hull requirements or suggestions. I did not just want ot slap this on without it being perfect. It's a lot of work. Even some glass work was required inside the engine compartment. Custom extensions for exhaust. New motor mounts. Sea strainers. Pop off valves. New Oil Coolers, Power steering coolers, Dual Hydraulic steering, Helm modifications for power steerings, hoses, two new rebuilt motors. I could write a book about it. One year and 7 months of waiting, and it is finally finished. Still have some gauges that are not working. So.....it's not done 100% yet.

Nice. Hope it runs as good as it looks!