Rick and Dan, I see your point with the blue sides but I have some ideas that will not make it look shorter.

That's what he keeps telling the misses too. LOL

Ryan it`s how you drive it not how long it is.

Amen drive it like you stole it.:woohoo: My real secret is I'm just going to get a 30 foot slip.

Well boys and girls I was back at it again this weekend and just about have it ready to start cutting. I really love whatever shop considered just to resin in blocks of wood to raise a transom form TRS to 3A's. What I found was blocks of wood with a coat of resin (no fiberglass at all) on the outer part of the transom and it was separating from the original glass that was full of water. It was great when I was taking off the lower nuts off of the inner transom plate and water was running down the inside of the boat. Then when I pulled the gimbles off it was like a water fall that was trapped between the transom and the gimble with no signs of sealant anywhere. Next weekend I go after cutting it out and getting my list together of S&#% I want to replace.

I know one thing, I could take it apart and never be able to put it back together. LOL

Sonic there are shoemakers all over the world . When I stripped my transom I found that not only did they not use very much sealant anywhere the previous owner replaced the 280 trim tabs with aftermarket ones and did not glass over the old holes just used regular none marine sealant . On the bright side , I didn't have to work very hard to remove the old wood from the transom as it was pretty much mush.
Rick G.

By lookin at the transom condition....I think you may have been able to get a couple more years out of it! LOL

Nice progress Mr. Ryan
Now that you are starting fresh I`d rig it for some Konrads, lose those dinosaurs :D

I have taken a lot of pictures as I was taking everything apart. Never know when it will go back together. The only sealant was on the trim tabs. Nothing at all around anything else. I was able dig some of it out with my fingers. So I am thinking it might not be to difficult to get the rest out

Once I saw the rot and the other wood that wasn't so bad I thought the same thing. Throw some Benjamin Moore paint on it and put it back together LOL.

Maybe install some bigger bilge pumps...you know...just to make sure you were safe...

What are your thoughts on hand pump. Just in case both deep cycle batteries go dead and I'm not plugged into the shore power

Finally got the rest of the parts out of the bilge and was able to warm up the sawsall. Found out how much water was sitting in the rotted wood. Also how hatched up they patched in the old trs cutouts for the speed masters.

Perfect time to raise the X dimension :drool1:

DISLIKE button:(

Raise it raise it raise it!!!

Nice progress, perfect day for it.

Since your hatches aren't tall enough to raise engines, nows the perfect time to go with efi Whipple setups !

Raise them. Now is the time to do it... A little more work now, but the rewards will be well worth it!

Ryan, I have the SSM Alignment bar when it comes time to reinstall the engines if you need it.

When I woke up this morning I didn't know I won the lottery. LOL .To raise the engines more would mean building new hatches (fiberglass and paint), making new engine mounts, new exhaust tails and whatever else pops up. The thing is my engines are high enough if I had V's but my 3A's are low. I would have to space the drive down a little bit with V's. Since I didn't win the lotto everything is staying the same unless a smoking deal came up for V's and I could sell my 3A's.

Thanks Joe I will take you up on that offer for the alignment bar.

you should have charged Dan more for the floor job to offset the cost of a pr of V's

Ryan if your 3's are set like mine were 6 inches below the hull if you change to 5's they about 5 inches shorter that would put them 1 inch below the hull without spacers .
Cheers Rick G .

Dan got Cig Brother pricing for the floor.

Rick my drive are 4 1/2" below the bottom of the boat. So with the V's I would be right there or space them 1/2" down to be flush with the bottom of boat.

All you to do now is score a pair of 5's .

Now you see my point of not having to raise my x dimension. :ernaehrung004:

After waiting for a spot to get my boat in the shop. Finishing a bathroom, as well as tearing out the old transom. It has made its way to the fiberglass shop. Now I have to get everything ordered, powder coated, and hydraulic lines made. Cant wait to put everything back together. I sure hope I remember how.

How hard was it to get the old transom out?

The starboard side was a piece of cake. I took a scraper to it and it all fell out. The port side was still pretty solid. That took a little bit more work. All and all not to bad with the right tools

Here is a update. Stringers were shot so replaced all of them and added two more. Also changed the layout of them so the water was able to drain better. There was so many patches to be made to the transom we decided to cut the entire thing out. All the glass work and paint is finished and getting everything together to re-rig it.

Keep up the work. Know all about the stringers not draing well.

Looks great man. Bet you gotta be excited to start bolting it back together. :D

Looks great! I don't miss the winter I cpmpletely redid my Baja....

Ryan the boat looks great with new blue stripes

Thanks Chris. Bet you are ready to run that cig you picked up. Going to start putting it back together next weekend. At least the parts will be clean going back in.

So , with all the new stuff I'm sure it will be in Key West in November. Nice work.

Quick question....

Everything I have read about transom replacements has said never remove the outer glass/gel without the wood inside as you lose the structural position and stability of the sidewalls and hull. Did your glass guy do anything to brace everything so it stays in position? As I embark on a transom replacement I am always thinking of how much easier this replacement would be if done from the outside. I am willing to take a few extra steps to brace the inside if that would make it possible Just wondering if your glass guy had any insight?

Thanks
Jim

I am it is at (Jim Watson) Ozark speed and marine down in the Ozarks in his shop. I cant wait to see yours in the water with the new paint. I aways like the colors of your's and mark's boats.

I'll be in Key West, the boat will be put away. Much better for me to be down there with no responsibilities. Thats awesome Jim is a good guy. Can't wait to see yours as well.

Jim. I am not even close to a glass guy. What happened was I removed the inside glass and the rotted wood. Then it was taken to the glass shop, That's when it was decided to cut the transom out due to the amount of repairs that had to be done to the outside. When the back was cut out they left about an 1-1/2 all the way around. That's what kept the sides, top, and bottom true. Then the boat and the transom were ground to a 45. After that the inside has multiple layers of glass as well as a couple on the outside. Hope this helps. I can get more specific info if need be.