More than likely it's the fuel sender. Just need to make sure your gauges have a full sweep and not getting stuck. There is a picture of them installed here. Mine was doing the same thing, I installed new gauges and senders.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/c...ml#post4025033

Still wouldn't have known what length to make them for the gauges to work accurately! I will pay a few extra dollars for Phil's knowledge!!!

bino.. just pull the center plastic cover in your bilge... youll see the top of the fuel sender.. un plug. take the 8? bolts out. take out old sender. replace.

I~m confused, you mean telling you to make it an inch shorter?
Yes that Phil guy is a wizard, since the pickup is right next to the sender making an inch shorter will leave some gas in the tank when it shows empty. Who would have thought! :D
Personally , I like to know exactly how much gas I have. When mine says empty... its empty, when it`s 1/4 tank... it`s 1/4 tank.
He told me my #4 drive is all wrong for my boat, that it`s a racing drive only, he couldn`t wrap his head around why I`m running a # 4. I was a bit confused about that.
Nice guy thou.

I just re-read my notes it was more like 3" shorter maybe a little more! It's something I never thought of and I like the way it works now much better! Who would have thought... I damn sure didn't. Obviously you don't know either because you would have corrected my 1" statement jackass.

I can see him not liking 4's or any of the dinosaur drives. None of the guys like them old drives don't matter who you talk to. I had a whole table of boat racers drivers/throttle men at key west say NO at the same time when I said I was thinkng about putting 5's on my boat. They all said leave the Konrads on.

I'm trying to be nice in This thread but your ego is getting the best of you bro. By the way your tank is not 1/4 tank when your gauge shows 1/4 tank because they angle.. your really on empty.

I'm sure you will have some smart ass reply tipicle of all the other train wrecks you post in...

One more thing the network I made with Phil at LipShip from buying a set of senders is unbelievable. The guy went out of his way and helped me get my boat going again when we broke a trim line in key west for free! That day he spent 3-4 hours rounding up the parts we needed to fix our boat so we could enjoy Key West! I owe him an entire vacation for what he did for us!

Who gives a **** if you can save $100 on senders... I wouldn't expect you to understand that though.

I'll take a SSM 4/5 over a Konrad any day. Many old FAST big power Cigs, Fountains, Apaches, Cougars, etc had them on them. Heck the original 90mph Top Gun came with them. Dinosaur? As compared to what, the great modern Bravo drives? The Konrad?

The great thing about the 4/5 drives, is that being shorter, they allow you to run a high propshaft height, while lowering the engines in the hull, which results in a better balanced and handling boat.

Much of the #6 drive internal design is very similar to the 4/5 and 3/3A setup. With twin vertical shafts, 1.750 propshafts, big straight cut gears, they are a very stout drive.

I hope you have better luck in the long run with your Konrads than my buddy who had a 90 Top Gun with 800's did. He got a whopping 20/25 hours out of them before they took a dump. As far as rough water handling goes, I'll take a 17/18'' cleaver propped boat over a boat spinning some 15'' round ears anyday.

As far as the old racers go, I've talked to several, who LOVED the old SSM III/IV/V drives, and raced successfully with them. I would not attempt running like this with Konrads. Just my opinion, since you insulted my dinosaur drives lol. :cartman:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=niwjMgDl02k

These weren't old racers. They were the current racers racing at Key West. We were testing water conditions for some of the racers so they could set there boat up. We would make a couple laps around the track about an hour before the race. They would then dump/add fuel or reprop depending what the water conditions were like.

I agree the twin verticle shaft old school drives are stronger than Konrads but they all still said keep the Konrads. They had absolutely zero love for them old drives.

The option they suggested were in this order. Imco SCX up to 700hp. Konrads because my boat is rigged for it. Anything else use number 6 drive or if I up my power level switch to number 6.

My boat is rigged for 3a's and I could easily swap back to a 3,4,5 drive but they still said no way in hell they would do that.

Thank you mmb, I will give Phil a call he has always been helpful to me.

I'll text you guys my opinion as not to start a sh!t storm on here lol

Geez somebody woke up on the wrong side of the bed.. whats up with your last sentence? I mentioned Livorsi as a second option, so sorry! Pretty sure Phil doesn`t make his own senders you probably got a Livorsi anyway.

You like it 3" shorter and a ton of fuel left after the gauge reads empty, great.
I`ve opened up my tanks and know exactly what I want my sender length to be.

http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s6/...56870110-3.jpg

http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s5/...65723737-3.jpg

Konrads over SSM drives?? :bong:

Perhaps the "racers" were anti SSM because they think parts are no longer available. Gary makes all the gears. I was able to get everything I needed 2 years ago including a polygonal vertical shaft.

I learned ONE Thing from this thread---- This video ROCKS!!!!!

Thank you Mild

A lot of conflicting advice (or opinions), on drives here. I would think any SSM style setup on these type boats would be superior to any Bravo style setup.

mmb, you actually have a Konrad "SSM" style setup. I would agree that it may be better as that company still produces new units, maybe that is what they are referring to??? Parts?

YOU'RE MAKING ME NERVOUS, STOP!!! (I recently switched from Konrad/TRS, to SSM)

lol i start a thread about toggles and fuel sender and it turns into a pissing match about drives... i guess its inevitable :hijack:

winter

Over the years I've talked with many owners of 3,4,5 SSM drives. I've never heard anyone complain about them. Several of my boater buddies, including myself, currently own them. Blowing them up is not an issue.

Talk with people who actually own them, and know about them. Not "heard" about them, and I think your nervousness will go away.

The story supposedly was in that apache, with triple 800 or 850hp engines, they would be able to complete an entire race season on the same set of engines and drives. Back then that said a lot. Huge heavy boats, big water , big rpm, etc.

I've ran my old heavy flat deck with 3A's and anywhere from 500 hp. To 800 hp for the past 7 years with regular drive oil changes with no issues. Knock on wood. The only thing i would ever change to is VI's. Thats just me though. By the way did you find toggles you like?

you made the right move!!

Or did he......???:party-smiley-004::drink:

Not sure what CIG used for fuel senders but my Fountain had senders made by "Moeller".they were basic 240-33ohm senders , used in many applications. Automotive, marine, trucking, industrial, etc. I bought aftermarket replacements for 20 bucks each. Been 5 years since I installed them. No issues and pretty darn accurate.

Frickstyle, you still think you made the wrong choice?


http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s9/...32357289-3.jpg



http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s2/...97980457-3.jpg

What in the world is that?

It's a bad ass flat deck!!!

^^ Ha! thanx! I have 4 blades now , doesn`t look as cool as the 5 blades but she planes like a dream.

So wait a minute. Are you trying to say your boat planed better with the right 4 blades than it did with 5 blades of the same diameter? Thats not possible. You are a liar, and need to stop listening to guys with real world experiance and start listening to internet theories. Please, lets keep things based on opinion and not fact. This is oso. Plus those drives, dinosaurs, they'll never work on a 38 Cig.. :party-smiley-004:

What are you doing with the old props? What size are they? No, I know I made the right choice, for the most part to handle the power ( I hope ). Plus with boxes, it should be a pretty stout / better handling setup than the Konrad setup.

From reading your threads about prop results, I was thinking 5-blade 32 pitch with that majoc .100" -.130" of cup for planing. That info right there is probably worth a few thousand $$$s in the wrong props.

Also, that first pic is my background now, motivation.

I wouldnt go to 5 blades right off the bat.

What ratio are your 5's? Where will the propshaft be relative to the bottom? You have a notched transom, plus ext boxes. You should be able to go pretty agressive with the setup, and add spacers if need be

Back when the V's were out. They could have been

1.12
1.18
1.25
1.31
1.32
1.33
1.40
1.44
1.49
1.50
1.57
1.62
1.68

Tell me again why the racers didnt like them? A drive that had so many possible gear ratio/prop combinations, as well as mounting options for different hulls. The option to space the drive down 3 inches, run props from 15'' diameter to 18'' diameter, straight cut net forged gears, 1.75 propshaft's, 1'' thick spur gears, heavy duty strong gimbals, extra large skegs for surface piercing applications. IMO, probably one of the most versatile, big power handling drives produced. The #6 is ultimately a stronger drive, but costly, and a pair of #6's arent gonna work on a 10 meter fountain, powerplay, etc. But, I guess some still think they are unworthy dinosaurs.

Will my bayliner run faster with an arneson or an alpha?
I had a local bracket drag racer build me a wicked motor and I want to show everyone what side of town I'm from!

I like the story when Konrad tried to blame the drive leak on the UPS guy after they had to go back for repairs . "I opened the sealed crate and there was oil all over inside" (after sending pics) Konrad:" the drives must have been tampered with" .. "by who, the UPS guy!?!?" ....."it`s possible" .. way to stand behind your product.:picard1: lol


Frickster, what power are you putting in? My props are 17 3/4 x 28 0r 27.3 if you wanna get technical. (.100-.110 cup) almost 900hp.

I like my set up best even with the bottom as the boat came. I wasted a lot of time trying to turn in/out experimenting with spacers to get better planning when the whole time I just needed props with some good cup. You don`t need 5 blades either. Back in the day the hot ticket on these "dinosaur" drives was a round ear 3 blade.

5 blade 32 pitch seems big to me but your boat is probably 3000lbs lighter than the Flatdeck with more power so only testing will tell.



http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s2/...63030030-3.jpg

Cup is the vertical numbers on the left top

He may even wanna start 1/2 to 1" above the bottom since he has the notched transom and boxes. Then if need be lower with spacers.

What does any of this have to do with toggle switches and cigarette keys??

good info reading none the less!

Most questions should be answered by Page 1. Page 2 at the most.

This is page 8, therefore a derail is not politcally incorrect. I do prefer Bikini derails though. Different technical subjects should be started in a different thread for more people to notice and help answer.

Wasn't my fault.... I know that!!!!:eekdrop:

If we need 8 pages to figure out a couple ignition switches and which key to use (which info has been provided by page 1), we might as well revert back to "how to do an oil change" topic.

I do like the separate push button for the starters, with an IGN toggle wired seperately, esp if you run locked timing or high compression. Allows you to get those motors cranking then light the spark after.

[QUOTE=ICDEDPPL;4237549]I like the story when Konrad tried to blame the drive leak on the UPS guy after they had to go back for repairs . "I opened the sealed crate and there was oil all over inside" (after sending pics) Konrad:" the drives must have been tampered with" .. "by who, the UPS guy!?!?" ....."it`s possible" .. way to stand behind your product.:picard1:


That Konrad guy was me and yes, It was extremely puzzling what had happened. When I got the pictures (from Brian) it was clear that a hammer and punch had been used on the cover nut to loosen it. I can assure you that Konrad does not install (or remove) bearing carrier cover nuts with a hammer and punch. Each and every drive is run for a half hour and checked for temp and leaks before shipping. Yes, it was extremely odd and will probably never know why that happened.

Kurt

mmb, what hp are your motors making now? konrads are a great drive if you stay within the guidelines that they give you. if im not mistaken you are beyond those hp ratings and out of there warranty program. you will be breaking something sooner than later. i would love to meet the "racers" that you met down at the keys that say non of them like ssm drives. lol. what kind of a moron would make a statement like that, that's not a educated one! how about your buddies that you ran down with last year, they both had ssm drives and if i'm not mistaken one of them switched from konrads. i had driven and owned a few 38 tg cigs ( bravo, trs, #3, #3a, #5 and konrad) i'm going to go out on a limb here and guess you have never owned a ssm boat? that's probably why you seem to be so negative nelly on the ssm, (stand behind what you have) i get it. BUT, don't come on here and start spouting off about how bad a ssm drive is when you have no experience with on or you just repeating what a couple of fools told you in key west. i could careless if they race a boat or not, it doesn't mean they are educated in the offshore world, it means they have the deep pockets to play in it.

Let's see, I had these drives
Alpha 1
Bravo xz
Bravo 1
Stern Power mx107
TRS
Konrads
SSM 3A

Only one drive on the list above never needed anything and they had 875HP on a heavy gun. SSM

I now have xr and imco lowers on a lighter TS, only a little shy of 600 hp, time will tell, however I sure liked the piece of mine running the SSM. Never an issue.