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ZP, MP, great work. I love it when you guys start a project.
Question, and I know you have addressed this but I would still like clarification. Was the extension box necessary just for driveshaft length and angle considerations or were you also trying to alter the propshaft depth? Is the transom in the water when running or is the notch big enough to keep the transom clear? Your props must be well aft of the of the aft end of the running surface. I'm collecting this information for the day we buy a Cig, move down to Florida and join your merry band! Dan |
Originally Posted by BajaDan
(Post 4286166)
ZP, MP, great work. I love it when you guys start a project.
Question, and I know you have addressed this but I would still like clarification. Was the extension box necessary just for driveshaft length and angle considerations or were you also trying to alter the propshaft depth? Is the transom in the water when running or is the notch big enough to keep the transom clear? Your props must be well aft of the of the aft end of the running surface. I'm collecting this information for the day we buy a Cig, move down to Florida and join your merry band! Dan Boxes saved them from moving the engines up Or down to match drive height. Boxes also saved Them ton of $$$$ on other parts and mods noted Earlier. Not mention saved tons of time. Keeping proper driveshaft angles keeps your U-joints alive and healthy. Hence the extra home Work with current engine height vs desired drive Heights. So yes they needed boxes to keep healthy drive Shaft angles too. In regards to boxes there are different theory's And benefits.. Some depend on the boat. Mostly is allowing you to raise the drive and have Cleaner water at the prop. Water comes off the bottom Of the hull and then starts to rise back up to normal Level vs the hole your plowing. And your props are at that raised level with clean water allowing better speed Typically too. Hope that helps from my perspective. Jon |
Thanks Jon. I understand that they did not want to change the engine location. I don't blame them! I was curious as to whether the boxes were required because (for whatever reason) there was not enough space between the new drive and the tranmission for a shaft or if the input shaft on the #6 drive is in a different location than the #5 resulting in extreme U-Joint angles or if they were shooting for a new prop shaft height etc.
Like your Shelby quote by the way. Gurney test drove the original Cobra, came back in the pits and said to Shelby (and I paraphrase) this car understeers like a pig and the brakes are horrible. Shelby replied, "Don't worry, we'll give you another 100 hp". Dan |
Originally Posted by BajaDan
(Post 4286203)
Thanks Jon. I understand that they did not want to change the engine location. I don't blame them! I was curious as to whether the boxes were required because (for whatever reason) there was not enough space between the new drive and the tranmission for a shaft or if the input shaft on the #6 drive is in a different location than the #5 resulting in extreme U-Joint angles or if they were shooting for a new prop shaft height etc.
Like your Shelby quote by the way. Gurney test drove the original Cobra, came back in the pits and said to Shelby (and I paraphrase) this car understeers like a pig and the brakes are horrible. Shelby replied, "Don't worry, we'll give you another 100 hp". Dan Most engines bays do not have additional FWD Room not to mention really changing CG's moving that much weight forward. Jon |
Thanks for the help Jon, you are correct on all items. Is the 46 a twin or triple?
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Yeah, what he said!
We spent LOTS of hours planning how to do this conversion without moving the engines, modifying the hatch and buying new tail pipes. The single most challenging aspect of the project was getting everything "lined up" to attain the desired (1" above the bottom) drive height while not exceeding the magic seven degree driveshaft angle. Thankfully ZP is as skilled with his CAD program as he is with power tools. Yes, he drew it all up ahead of time, then we just followed his "blueprint". As you saw in the previous posts, the only real engine room modification was to the driveshaft covers. That was only required because the inner transom brackets for the SSM VI drives are much thicker than those on the 5's. |
Looking good boys!!!!!! I'm glad the stuff went to a good home.
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Originally Posted by Zero Patience
(Post 4285945)
Yes, went with 1.61 gears, so the prop turns
Slower, so more pitch is needed to get back where it was. The main thing needed is diameter. Everyone says mount the drives 3 or 4 inches up, a old cig is not an airboat. The prop needs to touch the water, this one is 1" above the bottom, and needs diameter to get a bite. The staggered setup limits diameter to 17.5 " , we tried sliding on my 17.75" but they were to close to run. (In my opinion, there my new props) Merc Racing is building a new set as of today. Did not choose 1.61s that is what came in the drives, it was decided to spend money on props early on, instead of gears. Thanks for asking. Good question. There's a set of year old Hering 17x 32 x 18r 5 blades for sale at a great price. Post a pic of the Cougar. 90% of your boating is spent in Mid/cruise range anyways. What is your hopefull Final Dia. & Pitch? Here is a pic of my Trailer Queen ya asked for, bought it as just a Hull and It's about 90% complete Jon |
Awesome Cougar! I always wondered about your avatar pic!
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Looks Amazing Guys!! Can't wait to get mine going and go boating with everyone again! Who knows maybe we will do some Wet 6's on mine down the road.
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