ok great! i am planning on building/foaming hte tanks in between the stringers in the forward portion of the bilge (starting about two feet forward of the transom) . thisa is how prostock85 said his was set up. i will then be putting the new floor down over the top of them making the area partially over the fuel tanks the rearward seating location.

i am formulateingmy plans as i go so anyone with advice please chime in!

so far:

-glassdave went over how to properly fill in the drive holes in the transom so thats the first order of business

-pair of mercury bluewater series 3.0 efi 250s

-2 jack plates (manual) (10 in setback???)

-2 fuel tanks between the stringers starting 2 feet from the transom

-rearward seating compartment installed over the fuel tanks w access and storage area behind the rear bench.

just talked to T2X via PM. he said that the fuel tank placement sounded good and to use the shortest jack lpates he could find.

so i am formulating my plan of attack on this beoch.

im ready to dig in! lol

if any one who has pics of the transom stringers/knees on a similar outboard application could post em, link em, or email em to me at: [email protected].

thanks to ALL who have helped so far!

Interesting. How will you tilt the motors?

lol damned if i know

That is actually something I thought about after suggesting the jacks over the platform, he needs to get the boat, and motors, then figure out how much setback he is gonna need, amy need more than I originally thought.

ya know ive looke dat the transom of a couple of shadow cat outboards and the motors are bolted directly to the transom
(prostock85's boat is one example) and the top of the transomactually has notches made into it to allow the motors to tilt forward. (compare dto minw wich is flat)

now i could cut the transom and build the notches into my boat, or i could use the bracket like I was going to buy from Midocean, or i could try a 12 inch setback bracket, thaT may give me enough setback to tilt them up enogh to clear when loading and trimming while running.

IDK.

lol keep the ideas comin guys im tryin to get this thing figured out.

I would use the setback transom bracket before i cut and notched the boat , if people were using the tubeular gil brackets back in the day, the B- bracket would give you what you want , but i dont know how deep is the bracket? , will it interfere with the tunnel? Can you mount it high enough to clear the tunnel and still get your motors in the water , maybe the center motor if you use one will have to be a longer midsection., i know outboard conversions are getting very popular with these swimplatform motor brackets , whatever you do its better to bolt on then remove if it doesnt work then to cut and fiberglass and gelcoat notches in the transom IMO

Ok, I just measured and my tanks are made by aluminum fabricated products, and are 76 gallons each. The rear of the tank sat , at floor level, 21" from the transom and are 78 1/2" long. I planned on moving them up approx 6" to gain more bilge area and because of the 550# motors. My boat has no knees which I will be adding but currently has big aluminum plates and welded supports that run forward in the splashwell. The motors are bolted to transom and propshaft is approx 1 1/2" below sponson. Any questions I can help with, just ask.

2ton- You will need to add transom knees- essentially a brace that runs from the transom to the stringers. Some one can send you a pic.

Wannabe

ok the question is:

transom bracket(s) : i can use two individual brackets or one large one.

how much setback is enough? 20, 26, 30 inches???