Do you look for fights in every thread you post in?

Justice is only looking for advice. Does it serve him or anyone else to interfere with the flow of information with name calling and useless argument? If you have any factual, pertinent information, why not present it in a polite fashion so that we all may either learn from you or at least debate based on the merits?

By the way, I've had conversations with Dave. He knows what he's talking about. He does this for a living- he's not a hobbyist.

lastly, as far as your Coosa comments, when the major boat manufacturers move from marine plywood to Coosa in their transoms, let us know. Until then, if it's good enough for NorTech, Outerlimits and Cigarette, as well as a hundred more, it should be good enough for a 20+ year-old Mistress.

LMAO . . . . Ya know Excal . . . some decafinated brands are just as tasty as the real thing . . .



Who the heck ever said i was cutting edge, and where on earth in any of this did i say west system is best (trust me that is not something i would say)? For whats worth i try to gear any answer to what ever the individual is doing and also toward the fact that not everyone is looking for the most technologically advanced coring and laminating system money can buy. alot of guys just want a straight forward system that has worked fine through the years. Simple fact is you ask ten guys you will get ten different answers. Your answer to everything seems to be Coosa and Westsystems. Both fine products that i do use, but everything has its place. You will see me suggest many different products and i am always open to new products.

Name calling? . . . well i wont go there my friend. Most people on this board already know what your opinion is worth, you seem to be very argumentative for some reason with anyone that does not agree with you. Yes i would love to run with you offshore but doubt seriously you would keep up for long. Have a very nice day

man . . . that got poofed before i even got done replying . . .


Thanks Chris . . . buz me when your ready.



Ya know . . . upon reviewing my earlier answer on how best to tackle this project i would like to revise my method of repair


I would have the inner surface of the transom laser scanned to generate a 3D map that can than be used to CNC cut an exact replica out of a Coosa. From there remove the entire deck of your Mistress so this new piece can be lowered in in one sheet. Set up a vacuum infusion/carbon fiber system to ensure proper wet out and a tight laminate using only West Systems epoxy. After its initial cure place the boat in your autoclave for post curing . . . . you do have an autoclave dont you? If not your welcome to use mine


Justice, sorry the thread got side tracked a bit. It does happen around here sometimes and i hope you see some of the humor in it. So far its heading in the right direction. Prep is everything, as Audio and others said knock that lip down and also dont forget to fill any gaps at the edges with something like cab-o-sil. Triple 1/2 inch is a sweet race layup for a transom, double 3/4 is what it probably had originally, either would work fine.

I have done my fair share of glass ...............the way I look at it the ply and poly last 25+ years with poor care habits so dollar for dollar thats how I would do it 2 cents.......

You guy are too funny!! Thought I was in a kindergarden pissing match for a minute there!!I think three layers of 1/2" wood will be the way I go.She will be 30 this year and wood should go another 30 years.Hate to cut my stringers ,might have to.Cutting out center hatch support would be a option and make work easier,could go back with aluminum,would like to see some pics on that.I am going to finish prep work this weekend and try some template patterns.Thanks for all the help!!I will keep the pics comming.

Hey Chris I woud like to see a pic of hatch support replaced!

The boat is coming out of storage monday for some paint work. I'll snap you a pic.

Is West System what everyone is recommending for epoxy and glass work?Thought I would lay mat between each layer of wood and three layers of mat and roving on final layer.What do you guys think?

if you choose to go with epoxy west system is pretty good stuff but is heavily marketed. It will cost a fortune and quite honestly the viscosity is a little to high to wet out very efficiently. Go to uscomposites.com and take a look at their 635 epoxy with a medium hardener. Up side of using epoxy is a longer workability for the first timer. Keep in mind if you choose to use epoxy you will have to use a binderless stitched mat as opposed to a standard ounce an a half mat that is normally used with poly, and yes you will need one layer of fiberglass between each layer of wood. Also you cannot use any type of gelcoat to brush coat the bilge, it will have to be painted.

The only fiberglass you will need is ounce and a half mat and a 1708 or 1808 bi-ax. I wouldnt bother with the roving Nytex is way easier to work with and you only need two layers.

another neat trick that really dosent cost alot is a method for putting pressure on the transom while it cures. as Chris said earlier drill through existing holes and through bolt. But for areas where there may not be an existing hole try using a few of these


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43569


i use 4 of them (under $30) to aid in applying pressure in those tough areas.

I would listen to Dave, he wears resin as after shave.