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looks pretty good man, also looks like the shop got a serious dusting :D
You could very easily make an insert for your mold to accommodate a pad. whats on it right now? primer or gel? or? |
I started from an old flat hatch I got from Travis (Bad Enough). I made a wood frame, covered it with plywood, made the curves with a combination of plaster and bondo. I had to use foam on the rear section due to the odd shape. Covered the entire plug with mat and resin.
Sanded flat with 36 grit. Then covered it with 407 filler and resin sanded flat with 80 grit. Then rolled white gel coat. It sanded out fairly smooth after the filler. But the gel is fairly rough (I've had to roll everything). I'm thinking I could start with 220 grit wet on the gel coat then work down to 400, 600, 1000, polish. Am I heading in the right direction? |
Thanks for the comments guys. Other than surfboard patches this is my first real glass job. What ever Dave charges for this kind of work it aint enough.
You can tell by all the dust around the hatch its been a fun job. :) |
Originally Posted by daredevil
(Post 2742532)
I would leave it without pad. Looks racier. Nice job .:drink:
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I like it Rob . Looks awesome.. You made one hell of a mess..... dumbass. Is that really my old hatch ? You got a few skills:ernaehrung004:
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Originally Posted by hurleyr
(Post 2743053)
I started from an old flat hatch I got from Travis (Bad Enough). I made a wood frame, covered it with plywood, made the curves with a combination of plaster and bondo. I had to use foam on the rear section due to the odd shape. Covered the entire plug with mat and resin.
Sanded flat with 36 grit. Then covered it with 407 filler and resin sanded flat with 80 grit. Then rolled white gel coat. It sanded out fairly smooth after the filler. But the gel is fairly rough (I've had to roll everything). I'm thinking I could start with 220 grit wet on the gel coat then work down to 400, 600, 1000, polish. Am I heading in the right direction? I use no finer than 180 to fair gel than step up from there. You need a coarser grit to level the surface, once its true and flat than go to 240/400/600 . . . . ahhhh yes . . . . the fun stuff. sand sand sand . . . and when you think your done . . . sand some more . . . :D dont forget you are going to have to put a flange around the edge for the shoulder of the mold. |
Originally Posted by glassdave
(Post 2743394)
I use no finer than 180 to fair gel than step up from there. You need a coarser grit to level the surface, once its true and flat than go to 240/400/600 . . . .
ahhhh yes . . . . the fun stuff. sand sand sand . . . and when you think your done . . . sand some more . . . :D dont forget you are going to have to put a flange around the edge for the shoulder of the mold. Does it need to go around the plug before molding or around the mold after I make the mold? What should I make it from? What a DA? |
I do most of my final fairing by hand but you can do some of the larger flat work with a DA if you are careful.
I will post some pics of the flange work later from my home pc. It needs to be part of the plug. its relatively simple |
WoW- - Great Job. Your mold will be very popular as the new style hatch really updates a TG
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Hurley I'll get he pics to you over the weekend. Been away still. :cool:
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