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Stringer/Bulkhead replacement advice

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Old 05-18-2009 | 10:36 AM
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Default Stringer/Bulkhead replacement advice

I have a 90 31ft Scarab Excel torn apart at the moment and I'm getting ready to put it back together. The deck is still on the boat.

The goal right now is to get the boat in the water, until the fall when I'll have more time to yank the deck.

The stringers and bulk heads I can get too I'm totally replacing. But the areas that I'm not able to glass the back sides etc... I'm just gutting out the rotten wood and replacing.

What I planed on doing was cleaning out the wood and running a wire brush on a drill through the area to scuff the surfaces. Then fitting resin coated plywood into the area. To make sure everything seals together I was thinking about running stainless screws every so many inches to suck it all together. Should I leave the screws in? Or pullem out and coat the holes with resin?

I'm using Epoxy resin from UScomposites. I'm not sure what they used originally for resin on this boat. But I figure the epoxy will stick to just about anything as long as its clean and rough.

Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance for any info guys.

Sceptre155
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Old 05-19-2009 | 06:50 AM
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Any feedback guys?
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Old 05-19-2009 | 09:55 AM
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I was reading some of the other posts about Kevlar. And I do believe I do have Kevlar, Does this change anything?

Or can I still use Epoxy?
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Old 05-19-2009 | 06:36 PM
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Crickets
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Old 05-19-2009 | 06:41 PM
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opps, i missed this. I will put something up a bit later tonight. Busy painting right now
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Old 05-20-2009 | 09:08 AM
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NP, If you get time Glassdave that would be awesome. The fiberglass arrived today. I noticed last night while gutting out some other areas that they used 2X6 timber for some of the cross members. I'll be replacing that with resin coated plywood.
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Old 05-20-2009 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by sceptre155
NP, If you get time Glassdave that would be awesome. The fiberglass arrived today. I noticed last night while gutting out some other areas that they used 2X6 timber for some of the cross members. I'll be replacing that with resin coated plywood.
I am not a expert but you are better off using the plywood over 2x6s, just glass inbetween layers wood thats what I am going to do.
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Old 05-21-2009 | 07:17 AM
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Same, I'm not going to put timber back in. I'm curious if I need to do anything special trying to stick to Kevlar, and if I should worry about removing the screws I use to suck the material together.
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Old 06-27-2009 | 11:37 AM
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Sorry I missed this thread until now...went thru the same exact thing in my scarab and it worked out very well...obviously you should be done by now...how did it all work out? Bill
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Old 06-27-2009 | 06:07 PM
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I'd leave the screws in. Sonic leaves the screws in the shoe box joint and then glasses the joint. As long as they are stainless.
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