More thinking. When considering a full height panel, it won't slide down between the 2 tall middle stringers and the transom. It will be to tall to fit under the deck and clear the 2 stringers. There is a 6" above the transom for the swim platform cavity, while the middle stringers are at least 12". I see 2 options, cutting the stringers back (which I'm not sure/comfortable about doing at this point, but that seems to be the recommendation on the' How To Do It' websites) to be able to tilt the panels in place, or to seam the panels horizontally. In that case, is it accceptable to have a seam running thru the transom cutouts? What is the rule for overlaping amount?

The stringers appear to be solid 2x since the motor mounts are lagged into the top. Don't think plywood would work there.

Making headway. Appears the leak is originating from the drain holes for the rear hull corner cavities. The holes were drilled, but the wood wasn't sealed. Both sides have the same water stains. Now just gotta figure out how water is getting in the rear cavities, when those holes are a good several inches above water level, and the boat has always been under a covered slip. This is with 2 layers removed, 5/8" and 3/8". Still have a 3/8" layer to go.

Just a side note, if you tend to use a ready heater at any point, remember that you wont have a clean burn. The residue from the kerosene may effect the layering of fiberglass, and the bonding agent you may use. Better off using an electric heater, they do just as well, and its clean, uncontrollably heat. Also, use precaution when dealing with fiberglass. You may already know this, but it helps to keep it in thought. (Filters really don't block it all out)

Other then that, good luck on your project, ill follow it threw the winter. I've done some boat restorations, and by all means there not fun at all.

Thanks, I have an electric heater if need be. Hoping to get this wrapped up in the next 2 weeks before the temps get too cold.

How do I deal with the 2 middle stringers? They are solid 2x10's that also have the motor mounts lagged to the top of them. I need to cut them back a bit to install the transom wood and glass. Do I simply cut them back square and butt new peices back in and glass them in, or does there need to be some type of overlap, which I don't see how to do w/o adding wood to the sides of the stringers. I currently have the wood removed from the transom buildup w/o doing anything to the stringers.

Any advise is appreciated. Thanks

Dude, sorry to hear about this. As Xtreme said kerosene ready heaters don't burn clean, If you need I have a 80,000 btu propane one you can borrow. Burns very clean, I have used it to bring the shop temp up. Never had a problem with paint like you would get with a kerosene one.
I could meet you half way, not like I am working or anything.

Of course I always shut off before any paint fumes,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Thanks pal. I'll have to see what the temps are going to be when I get to that point. Hopefully next weekend. Got most of the wood out tonight, will get the rest this weekend, then cut the new wood. Glassdave is guiding me threw this. The pics don't show 1/2 of it. On the positive side, it'll be stronger and better when I'm done with it. If not, know of any lifts for sale that'll fit my Fountain? ;)

Good one.

Hey I figure this way it will be easier for you to mount V10's and Indy drives.

Let me know on the heater.

Working on getting the last of the wood out only to see the transom has a layer of filler(?) between the outer FG and 1st piece of plywood.
Anyone run across this, and do you recommend removing the filler and laying up a layer or 2 of 1708 biax cloth against the bare transom? No idea what the filler is, assuming to level out the back for a flat surface to bond the wood to. Just thinking if the filler will still be able to accept a resin for bonding. It is somewhat softer than the gap filler used around the perimeter of the plywood, as can be seen by the gouges from either my chisels :eek: or were the stuff didn't bond as well to the outer layer of glass, which is the majority of the missing areas. A little hesitant to leave the filler in w/o opinions.
The shots of the top part of the cutouts show the filler somewhat deteriorating. Looks like cotton fuzz. I'm assuming from water?

Thanks

Looking at this picture with this post I'd be seriously looking at that outter stringer to make sure the water didn't weap into it and start rot up the stringer that you'll be doing this again later. Just a observation. I've never tackled a project like this so I'm going by pics alone.