Thanks Dave. Going to start the rebuild this weekend.
So 2) 3/4" it is.

Just trying to avoid moving the motor mounts forward/backward if at all possible by keeping the thickness the same.

Is a Bravo drill jig the same as an Alpha?

yes bravo and alpha use the same jig. When you mount the jig and drill all the holes you can rotate it a few degrees and line up one of the bottom guides to drill the lower corners of the cutout. Makes cutting it easier if you dont have to make the turn with a blade and comes out nice and square.

Iam not sure if this will help but iam also doing a new transom in my boat for the reason of converting a TRS to a Bravo. While I was removing the plywood I found alittle water in the plywood so its a good thing I decided to do this now. Also I notched the stringers starting a few inches forward and angling the cut towards the transom. This will make it easier to slid the new wood in and also make wedges and hammer them in place to hold the new wood up against the transom.

Well here is my thread and good luck! Oh if iam doing anything wrong speak up and let me know since this is my first time..
Erik

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/e...onversion.html

Another question that I find conflicting info on. How many layers of glass can be put down at once when using vinlyester?

Have read only 2 -3, and also on up to 6 layers, do to the heat curing produced making for a weaker part from too much heat.

Plan was to lay in 3 layers of 1708 for the buildup/rough leveling the 1st day, then follow with the 1 1/2oz layer and thickened Cabisol/resin on the 1st peice of wood to go in the next day. I understand the wet on wet is best, but is this too much at 1 time? Naturally would love to do it in 1 day if this is OK do to the weather temps, as long as the glass doesn't slide down on me.

Have also read if I continue on with the layup within 24 hrs, I don't have to sand the layers applied the previous day and this still constitutes a primary bonding???

The more I read, the more I'm lost!

Thanks

you wont have to worry about putting to many layers on at one time for this project. If you measure catylist accuratly you should be able to keep from cooking it plus it still cool where you are working on it. I would probably do the three layers, the ounce and half and the first layer of wood wet on wet. Reason being if you have a less the flat surface to begin with its going to be easier to get it to level with the wood with all layers still wet then with just the single layer of mat (if that makes any sense). It would be awfully difficult to get glass to slide down, takes a super saturated piece to get that to happen. What normally happens with some vinylesters that have a lower viscosity is the resin will tend to drain out of the laminate leaving dry spots if you dont stay on top of it. Just work as quick and efficiently as you can. Setting up your work is key, cut laminates, wood, everything ahead of time and try to do it in the least amount of steps.

The resins are air inhibited which means in the presence of air will not cure completly at the surface leaving it tacky and allowing you to put on subsequent layers at a later time. Usually next day, you could streach that out a bit but i would try to get them on as soon as possible. I'm a big fan of as much wet on wet as possible. For transom projects though there really is no need to have a wet on dry situation. My transom layups are pretty basic. I will laminate the two pieces wood together outside the boat, let that cure overnight then refit the next day, After i am happy with fit i will lay in the ounce and a half then clamp in the wood and leave it for the next day again . So at this point when i come in the next morning i have a nice dry bonded in transom. At this point all i have to do is back fill the perimeter with cabosil and cap the whole thing off with two layers of 1708 with a few extra tabbing layers staggered in the perimeter. Only differance with yours is the addition of three layers of 1708 at the base. you should not have to sand any of the laminates you are putting in.

Try and keep the whole process as simple as possible although i do understand it can be somewhat intimidating if your not familiar with it. Just keep posting pics and stuff. Ya got my number if ya need it

Dave,

I was wondering if could laminate your wood sheets together outside the boat and then fit and glass them in at one time.
Thanks for clearing that up.

Jim

Thanks Dave. I also thought of the fact that the 4 layers of wet glass would help make for a better contact footprint and there wouldn't be a need for the thickened Cabisol/resin mixture if that route was doable and it was pretty flat.

Your number is #1 on the speed dial. Crisis Hotline is #2.

From my understanding that is the proper way of doing it. Glue both pieces of plywood togeather first and allow it to dry, then go ahead and install in the boat.
Erik

Hey Jerry

How is it going? Did you get your material ordered? Did you get all of your demo completed? Did you get my pictures I emailed? Brian

Brian, yep, got everything. Spent all weekend on it planning to have the wood in. Had a couple major setbacks. Won't go into the huge mess we found. By time we got up the 1st piece of wood in, got it all clamped for fear of running out of time. The 1 1/2 oz matting is a royal pain! Screwed up the 1st one. So installed the one cut for between the layers of wood, only to find out that all the bolts I bought for clamping are galvanized, so the threads had a zinc buildup that prevent reg nuts from going in. All the stores were closed at this time, so frantically working, I cut a bunch of braces to push against the wood. After that, found a die and cleaned up the bolts and was able to get it clamped up for the night.

About ready for glass, x2
1st layer of wood in and clamped
Covered, dehumidified and heated.