No, u only have to sand if you miss the window of recoat on the chart . It was fairly cold for me i had the boat and room 55 then at night down to 42 or so so the cure time is long. On the back of can it has a temp/hours to recoat or cure time. It was walkable when i recoated, every 24 hours i did a recoat took 3 coats, and i ran out of paint. remember do thin coats and make sure it doesn't run in corners, i used foam 3 inch brush to cut in, and do angles the i used a 4 inch roller 3/8 nap, seem to work good.

Cody
First pay for the props you did not pay for and sent the wrong ones back then worry about draining the bank.
Jim

Been getting mine done, but it does have to be sanded between coats, according to both the can instructions and the tech line. The recoat window you are refering too is the minimum amount of time between coats at a given temp. Still gotta sand.
Not sure it really makes a difference though. Everytime we lightly sand, end up knocking off the high points. For the 3rd coat, we just hit the paint with scotchbrite pads instead of sandpaper then apply paint.

Turning out really nice and hard so far.

I am working with an epoxy manufacturer right now to come up with a white high viscosity epoxy just for bilges. Gonna use my Scarab as the first guinea pig as i keep that one in the water.

Post some pics of the finished product, would love top see it!

Based largely upon Glassdave's recommendation, redid the entire engine compartment. Sand - fill - sand - fill - more sanding. Used Bilgekote primer then two coats of Bilgekote gloss white. Thought about using expoxy, but Dave said this Interlux paint is really tuff stuff. I was also worried about an epoxy lifting (compartment was painted at the factory when new) the previous paint. So further reason to go with the Bilgekote product.

I will say this, I managed to paint the entire toe area of my work shoe. Forgot about it for several weeks. Got tired of looking down and seeing the white paint so I tried removing it--------------with Acetone. Did NOT remove it.
Before and after pics.

Looks good! I primered all the new raw glass with Primekote, then 3 coats of Bilgecoat. Gel would have been nice, but I also had the rest of the bilge in the original paint, so that just got sanded, scrubbed, 202/333 cleaned and 3 coats also. Very pleased with how it turned out.